Eurolight Installation in 100 Q

[Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)]

The H4 Eurolight installation was not as smooth as I thought it would be.

Among some of the extra items was the need to relocate the horns.

After finding the cost of the relay sockets to be around $13 each, I
cannibalized the 4000 parts car for 4 relay sockets, and the subpanel.  

With that I made a nice panel that has the four relays and maodified a
terminal/fuse block purchased at Pep Boys.  I had to tie together the spade
connectors - soldered and crimped.  now there is a fuse block installed
along side of the relays - one 30AMP for everything taking power off the
Jumper lug.  That feeds 4 10AMP fuses, one for each light.

Anyway, the finished job looks good, but in retrospect, it may be worth it
to get some pre- made harnesses -  I really wonder how Plug-n-Play these
really are, or is there almost as many wires to crimp/solder.

Now for the problem.  The Autocheck goes on when I turn on the driving
lights.  I measured the resistance through the relay control leads (86-85)
and the difference was IMO insignificant 37.2 vs 37.4 Ohms or something like
that.

When I bypass the relays and run the driving lights direct throuth the stock
wiring, the problem moves to the High beams.

This was getting rather frustrating, as previous posts had indicated, that
the Autocheck measures the difference between the two lights to see if a
bulb has burned out.  

Or is it a matter of the load not being high enough, if so, any ideas how I
might put a load on the wires, maybe run them through some aux lights, or
put a resistor in line?

I currently have all lights relayed, but would like to find out how to get
the setup to work correctly without disabling the autocheck.

If I do have to disable the autocheck, anyone know what is the best way,
preferably just to disable the headlight portion.


TIA for the helpful replies.

Ben
'89 100Q