What paint for chassis parts?

Thomas J. Donohue, Jr. donohue at netconnx.net
Mon Oct 16 20:39:42 EDT 2000


Used it a couple of years ago on the interior of the bed of my (recently
deceased just short of 200k mi.) '89 Isuzu PU.  Everything else rusted away from
it, but the bed remained the most solid part of the vehicle.  It is pretty good
stuff!  Tom

jim rose wrote:

> The single greates product i have seen is called "por-15". it is also sold
> under the Wurth name as a "paint over rust undercoat". It is a ceramic
> based-waterless "paint" that actually dries faster if its wet/humid out and
> breaks down in durect sunlight. Weird.
>
> The stuff is amazing. it makes an incredibly hard barrier completely sealing
> out moisture. it looks terrific and renders the part completely rust proof.
> it also completely neutralises rust it is painted over. the metal surface
> must either be rusty, sandblasted or very abraded somehow (wire wheel) it is
> advertised in auto resotation magazines. i have literature somewhere if you
> cant find them.
>
> the last ingredient is "contents partially unknown". i would reccomend
> wearing gloves if you find/use it.
>
> jim
>
> >From: Gerard <gerard at poboxes.com>
> >To: quattro at audifans.com
> >Subject: What paint for chassis parts?
> >Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 14:28:45 +0200
> >
> >Hi,
> >
> >I cleaned up all the paint and rubbish from the struts, subframe,
> >control arms and anti-sway bar. Then I got some cold galvanising primer
> >and aerosol satin black paint to get it neat and tidy. Discovered the
> >stuff just chips too easily so imagine how it'll stand up to engine
> >chemicals and road grim and stones/sand flying all over the place on the
> >road. Just had the bushings put in and the wheel bearings and the stuff
> >has come back with big chips all over the paintwork. Wasted enough money
> >so far, so now going to sandblast the paint off again and get some
> >decent paint onto it.
> >
> >Now, what to get that will stand up to a bit of stone chipping and brake
> >dust, oils, other chemicals, whatever? Auto refinish place said
> >polyurethane/akaline 2K paint or an enamel of some sorts. Enamel is
> >cheaper and I only need a primer and thinners. The 2K stuff needs
> >thinners, hardener, and etch primer with a activator.
> >
> >What'd stand up to road abuse and give a smooth finish (on parts no-one
> >but I will see :))?
> >
> >G.
>
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