[200q20v] Re: Bouncin' speedo

[ekellock at juno.com]

I performed this procedure a couple of years ago.  
It worked great.  I was digging around trying to find
it to send.  Thanks Chris!  

Ed

On Fri, 29 Sep 2000 08:20:36 EDT C1J1Miller at aol.com writes:
> In a message dated 9/29/00 1:44:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> Doyt at nwonline.net writes:
> 
> > I have a 91 200 20v tq with 156k and it all-of-a-sudden the speedo 
> has 
> >  intermittently started bouncing when I'm driving. It will bounce 
> 5mph+ ( 
> >  50-55) Is this something electrical or mechanical? How can I fix 
> it ......?
> >                                       
> > Thanks
> 
> http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/body.html#Spedometer/Odometer
> 
> "Fixing the electronic spedometer
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 08:09:18 -0400 
> From: Robert Myers <rmyers-at-inetone.net> 
> Subject: Bouncing speedo fix 
> 
> Several years ago I encountered the proverbial bouncing speedometer 
> 
> problem.  Since several posts have indicated that this is a 
> recurring 
> problem I am attaching the repair procedure I finally came up with 
> to truly 
> solve the problem with the '89 200tq instrument cluster.  It 
> permanently 
> solved the problem with that instrument cluster.  I suppose that the 
> 
> present problem may well benefit from the same treatment. 
> 
> Anyway, here it is: 
> 
> - 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> 
> 
>    Speedo Repair 
>      '89 200TQ 
> 
>   Fluctuating or pulsating needle. 
> 
>    (Also, on the GIGO principle, inoperative cruise control.) 
> 
> Note:  This information is provided for totally electronic 
> speedometers, 
> not those driven by cable. 
> 
> Cause of the problem:  A poor connection between the speedo head 
> itself and 
> the PC board of the Instrument Cluster (IC). 
> 
> Repair procedure: 
> 
> Remove the IC from the car.  (Additional info on IC R/R is available 
> if 
> this is not sufficient for you.) 
> 
> Open the hinged back of the IC and remove it.  Several Hex head 
> screws are 
> involved here. 
> 
> Remove the PC board.  There are several more screws and a few small 
> bits 
> and pieces involved.  No big deal but keep track of where everything 
> came 
> from so you can put it back later.  Note that there are four pins 
> extending 
> from  the speedo head through the PC board which provide electrical 
> 
> connection between the head and board.  (These are very similar to 
> the 
> jumper connections on many PC boards.)  It is these connections 
> which are 
> the problem. 
> 
> Remove the speedo head itself from the IC.  Follow the four pins 
> back to 
> their connections with the small PC board of the speedo head itself. 
> 
> Desolder these four pins and then replace them with separately color 
> coded 
> wires which are part of a high quality four (or more?) pin 
> connector. 
> Several types are available.  I used connectors from an RJ-11 phone 
> 
> extension cable simply because I had one immediately available.  
> Other 
> connectors will work nicely - perhaps better.  The RJ-11s are rather 
> bulky. 
>  Extend the cable out so that it may be plugged into its mating half 
> behind 
> the IC after it is reassembled. 
> 
> Solder the other half of the connector (matching the color coding of 
> what 
> you did inside the speedo head) to the PC traces where they connect 
> to the 
> original connectors of the PC board.  Lead the cable to the outside 
> of the 
> IC again. 
> 
> Note that some slight amount of cutting of the plastic IC case may 
> be 
> needed to permit easy extension of the connectors to the outside of 
> the IC. 
>  Select your route carefully and this will be a minimum amount of 
> trimming 
> and will be a trivial job. 
> 
> Reassemble the IC and plug the two halves of the connector together. 
>  Tape 
> the dangling connector to the back of the IC to provide strain 
> relief. 
> 
> Use of suitable and much smaller connectors will eliminate the 
> necessity of 
> doing the final connection outside the IC.  I simply used what I had 
> on 
> hand.  It might pay to find a better alternative.  The requirement 
> is for 
> four conductors, preferably color coded, and a high quality 
> connection. 
> 
> Reinstall the IC back into the car. "
> hth, chris miller, windham nh, c1j1miller at aol.com
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