Idle/WOT switch question

[Chris Dyer]

Did you clean it w/carb cleaner first?  Try that as well, it might just be 
dirty (& check hoses in/out of it too).

Also, check your ground. I've suffered through 3 mechanics (1 an audi 
specialist), 1 new ISV (mine was only $150 or so) and over 1 year of erratic 
idle.  Unknowingly to replace the air filter, I undid a wire attached to the 
head. When I re-attached, I noticed it was a wee corroded, so I sanded and 
dielectric greased it. No more idle problems.

Sort of the "scientific" simplest solution/answer first, then try the 
progressively more complicated stuff. Ex: Car won't start. Mechanic: got 
gas?  Me: um, uh...


>From: "Vic Norman" <vicn at icarz.com>
>To: <quattro at audifans.com>
>Subject: Idle/WOT switch question
>Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 06:34:20 -0400
>
>I have a 1991 Audi 100 with the 4 speed 097 automatic transmission. I've
>been having erratic idle problems. Read Scott Mockry's article about the
>idle/WOT switch being a likely cause and decided to check mine.
>Unfortunately, the switch on my car is a little more complicated than
>normal - instead of a single 3pin socket connection it also has a 6 inch
>lead with a second 3pin socket on the end and from what I've read it also
>has some sort of internal potentiometer. My obscenely expensive Bentley
>manual does a lousy job of explaining all this - nothing to explain what 
>the
>potentiometer is supposed to do, nothing in the wiring diagrams to show the
>second connector.
>Can anyone explain how to test this thing and whether all its functions are
>really necessary. It's a $250 item and it would be great to be able to
>replace it with the simpler basic switch if possible.
>Thanks.
>Vic Norman.
>

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