Pain and Pleasure times of the 200 20v
Jagadeesh, Yedetore
jyedetor at cisco.com
Mon Apr 16 09:26:44 EDT 2001
Hmmmm A bad mechanic to .... second opinion.... I was hoping for more insight.
First off... I do not agree with Richard that one can't blow a distributor with a shorted wire... A short can blow anything including a fuse. What is weird is there is no stretch marks on the timing belt or the cover to suggest that something fell into the head etc..... For among other things the mechanic would have definitely told me since the postmortem would have brought it out. It seems most likely that the drive from the crank end caused this shearing on the cam shaft sprocket and not vice-versa. Though what still remains a mystery is how did it manage to shear the sprocket without doing anything to the timing belt ..... I am hoping to get more ideas and suggestions from the experts... Since I am going to have things repaired any way... DOES any one have a spare 3B motor?????
Could do with a cheer
Cheers
Jaggi
At 04:53 AM 4/15/2001 -0400, you wrote:
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>Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re:Pain and Pleasure times of the 200 20v (Richard J. Andrews)
> 2. Re:Subject: RainX - another testimonial (Steve Jensen)
> 3. Re:Subject: RainX - another testimonial (StevieK1 at aol.com)
> 4. Re:Subject: RainX - another testimonial (WAUFX at aol.com)
> 5. Re:Subject: RainX - another testimonial (Richard J. Andrews)
> 6. 200 check engine/ABS lamps (Calvin Krug)
> 7. ALMS race at Donnington (Calvin Krug)
> 8. Ur-Q/WX -> MC Head Conversion Questions (David Thoresen)
> 9. Re:ALMS race at Donnington (Joseph Rae)
> 10. Re::: REGISTRY :: (Tom Nas)
> 11. Re:Headlamp bulbs more shock sensitive when hot? (Tom Nas)
> 12. Re:Mixture setting (Jesse+ Clendenning)
> 13. Re:Subject: RainX - another testimonial (edkellock at juno.com)
> 14. Re:A/T advice 2nd request (Orin Eman)
> 15. Re:Pain and Pleasure times of the 200 20v (Huw Powell)
> 16. Re:Subject: RainX - another testimonial (Huw Powell)
> 17. Re:Headlamp bulbs more shock sensitive when hot? (Houston Texas)
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 21:38:21 -0500
>To: Jagadeesh Yedetore <jyedetor at cisco.com>
>From: "Richard J. Andrews" <tech at flashmail.com>
>Subject: Re: Pain and Pleasure times of the 200 20v
>Cc: quattro at audifans.com
>
>sounds like you need a new mechanic?
>never heard of a distributor blowing due to a shorted wire...
>sounds fishy to me..
>
>crank has a sprocket?
>though it was a belt @ the crankshaft via the harmonic balancer...
>the only (chain) sprocket is in the head connecting the two cams together....
>now when you say the crank sprocket is sheared do you mean the teeth
>on the harmonic balancer...
>
>possible mr. mechanic goofed and dropped something in your head causing
>catastrophic damage?
>
>anyone care to chime in here?
>
>HTH!
>
>-rich
>Three weeks to tomorrow ago, my 91 200 20v just stopped to start. I
>>immediately contacted Arun Rao( another 200 20v owner and my cousin) it
>>immediately seemed to point to a dead fuel pump. I had the car towed to my
>>mechanic's shop and the next day he informed me that the fuel pump was
>>fine and it was actually my distributor. within a few minutes of his
>>changing it, it blew (apparently due to some wire that was
>>shorting). With a replacement (All Bosch) and new spark plug wires as
>>well during the test drive, the engine just stalled and the mechanic
>>pulled it over and diagnosed the problem to a potentially serious woe. A
>>sheared sprocket on the cam shaft. The one that is driven by the timing
>>belt. The hope was that it was a synchronous shearing and all the valves
>>and pistons had behaved..... hmmmm... looks like no such miracle has taken
>>place. I just got worse... the driving sprocket on the crank shaft had
>>also sheared. I am here trying to figure out the root cause of the
>>problem. The
>>questions that are bubbling around are ....
>>
>>1. Why did the first distributor die... Haven't had a chance to look at it
>>to try and figure out cause. The timing belt was replaced 10, 000 miles
>>ago by the same mechanic
>>2. Assuming the burnt dist. was due to a shorted wire.... did something go
>>wrong with the way the new distributor was put in that contributed to this
>>SHEAR problem... All this for finding root cause and accord blame or
>>consider it an act of GOD.
>>3. As a result what should have been considered while replacing the
>>distributor. Or was the problem in from the time the timing belt was
>>replaced and it finally showed itself up now.
>>4. Worst of all, now as replacement is it better if I just replace the
>>motor itself..... if things are too bad .. like definitely dead 20 valves,
>>pistons, head block and ....
>>.... All the help I can get will be appreciated ... Right now Uncle SAM
>>is not.
>>
>>Thanks a lot in advance...
>>
>>--Jaggi
>>
>>
>>********************************************************************
>>Jagadeesh Yedetore,
>>DSP Software Engineer,
>>Cisco Systems, 425 East Tasman Drive San Jose, CA 95134
>>Tel: 408-525-4235 Fax: 408-525-3934
>>e-mail: jaggi at cisco.com
>>********************************************************************
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 2
>From: "Steve Jensen" <sjensen at mindspring.com>
>To: "Craig Lebakken" <lebakken at cdicadwa.com>,
> "Richard J. Andrews" <tech at flashmail.com>
>Cc: <quattro at audifans.com>
>Subject: Re: Subject: RainX - another testimonial
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 22:57:21 -0400
>
>Spaketh Richard earlier on:
>> it works very well...
>> you must have a spotless windshield...
>
>When I was in the Coast Guard, we tried it on the flat tempered glass bridge
>windows after scraping all the crap and salt water etching off with straight
>razors. Worked well for a day, then sucked mightily with the smearing.
>
>Green water over the bow with salt water slamming the windows, looking for a
>fishing boat off Cape Hatteras and can't see anything due to smearing. The
>master chief calmly says to me "scrape that stuff off when we get back to
>port."
>
>Haven't used it since.
>
>-Steve Jensen
>87 5kcstq
>87 5kcstqw
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 3
>From: StevieK1 at aol.com
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 23:32:28 EDT
>Subject: Re: Subject: RainX - another testimonial
>To: sjensen at mindspring.com, quattro at audifans.com, v8q at audifans.com
>
>In a message dated 04/14/2001 11:08:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>sjensen at mindspring.com writes:
>
><< Worked well for a day, then sucked mightily with the smearing. >>
>
>In my own personal experience over the last several years of use, I would
>have to say that RAIN-X works well for about 2 weeks, under normal, Spring
>season rainy conditions, then starts to smear and attract the black residue
>from the wipers, especially if the wipers are newer!
>
>There is another Off-Brand product that claims to do the same as Rain-X
>(can't remember the name) but it works better and not any smearing. I think
>it was in a red bottle with blue lettering. Saw it at Trak Auto a few months
>back out here on the East Coast. I'll try to find it and report back to the
>list. It was cheaper, too!
>
>btw...
>[FOG-X, in the black bottle, works GREAT on my swimming goggles, for whatever
>that's worth!! Not much use for swimming goggles while driving, however!
>Maybe one of you Cabrio owners might like it!]
>
>Steve K.
>1990 V8Q 143k
>1990 100 150k
>1997 Chevy Suburban 56k
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 4
>From: WAUFX at aol.com
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 23:51:47 EDT
>Subject: Re: Subject: RainX - another testimonial
>To: StevieK1 at aol.com, quattro at audifans.com
>
>In a message dated 4/14/01 11:35:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>StevieK1 at aol.com writes:
>
>>
>> In my own personal experience over the last several years of use, I would
>> have to say that RAIN-X works well for about 2 weeks, under normal, Spring
>> season rainy conditions, then starts to smear and attract the black
>residue
>> from the wipers, especially if the wipers are newer!
>
>
>I've never used the pink stuff or the washer fluid stuff. What I have used is
>the spray on Rainx, the kind you rub/spray on yourself and dry it after it
>hazes over. I've used it for quite a while and, while it does require
>frequent (2-3 weeks) re-application, it never smears. Maybe it's providing a
>better coat by applying it by hand and rubbing it in vs. spraying it on and
>letting it go everywhere.
>
>m
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 5
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 23:09:52 -0500
>To: WAUFX at aol.com
>From: "Richard J. Andrews" <tech at flashmail.com>
>Subject: Re: Subject: RainX - another testimonial
>Cc: quattro at audifans.com
>
>yes.. i agree.. the pink stuff smears!
>this is the same rain-x is was talking about.. not the washer fluid..
>if you use prestone bug wash with a good application of rain-x you should
>be ok...
>the cheep blue stuff has made it smear for me as well...
>
>probably a contributing factor?
>
>-rich
>
>
>>I've never used the pink stuff or the washer fluid stuff. What I have used is
>>the spray on Rainx, the kind you rub/spray on yourself and dry it after it
>>hazes over. I've used it for quite a while and, while it does require
>>frequent (2-3 weeks) re-application, it never smears. Maybe it's providing a
>>better coat by applying it by hand and rubbing it in vs. spraying it on and
>>letting it go everywhere.
>>
>>m
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 6
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 19:50:04 -0500
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>From: Calvin Krug <ckrug at laf.cioe.com>
>Subject: 200 check engine/ABS lamps
>
>Today, I decided to find out why my '89 200Q has been sometimes
>unwilling to start. So, I looked up the info, and went out to the
>car. The first thing I noticed was the fuel pump relay. The fuse
>that is supposed to be used to make the ECU flash the trouble codes,
>well, it was already in there, and apparently had been since before I
>bought the car last fall. So, I took it out. Next, the check engine
>light wouldn't come on. So, I pulled the cluster, and found the bulb
>and socket loose behind the dash. The tabs that hold it in place on
>the board are broken. Anyone got one of these on a junk harness?
>But the light still doesn't come on. I checked the bulb with my
>meter, and it had the same resistance as the other dash bulbs, so it
>seems to be OK. So now what?
>While I was in there, I moved some of the dash lights around, as some
>of them are blown. I'll need to buy three of the larger ones with
>the big square base to get everything on. When I got it all together
>and took it for a drive, it ran fine (still hard to start 2 out of 5
>times I tried) But what's this? The "antilock off" light is on. Oh,
>that was one of the bulbs I replaced. So, I push the button on the
>dash, and it goes out......for about 30 seconds. Then comes back on.
>Now, unless I switch the ABS off and then on again every minute or
>so, the light is on all the time. What's the deal with that? Just a
>loose connection somewhere?
>So, the Check Engine light doesn't come on when I want it to, the
>Antilock one does when I don't, and I need a few bulbs and one socket
>for the dash lights. Someone give me a clue here. Thanks.
>
>Calvin Krug
>'89 200Q having problems
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 7
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 19:53:33 -0500
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>From: Calvin Krug <ckrug at laf.cioe.com>
>Subject: ALMS race at Donnington
>
>Ahh, another sweep by the Audi R8's. One, two, three. This is the
>first I've seen the one painted in the old Gulf colors. I like. And
>the BMW M3 GT cars can't win, even with their cheater motors. Gotta
>love it.
>
>Calvin Krug
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 8
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 22:01:50 -0700
>Subject: Ur-Q/WX -> MC Head Conversion Questions
>From: David Thoresen <david at epicfoto.com>
>To: <quattro at audifans.com>, <urq at audifans.com>
>
>Ok it seems the MC head conversion is getting to become a possibility since
>the head is coming off anyway... but I just want to know what is involved
>with it? I have found an MC head from an 86 5000 turbo, is it a direct bolt
>on? Will it give me any HP gains? if so how much? What are the
>differences between the WX head and MC head? Anything I should be aware of?
>
>Any web sites with any tips/pics?
>
>Thanks!
>David
>'85 Ur-Q
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 9
>From: "Joseph Rae" <quattro at centurytel.net>
>To: <quattro at audifans.com>, "Calvin Krug" <ckrug at laf.cioe.com>
>Subject: Re: ALMS race at Donnington
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 22:29:35 -0700
>
>I think that car is a private entry ???
>
>Joe
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Calvin Krug" <ckrug at laf.cioe.com>
>To: <quattro at audifans.com>
>Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 5:53 PM
>Subject: ALMS race at Donnington
>
>
>> Ahh, another sweep by the Audi R8's. One, two, three. This is the
>> first I've seen the one painted in the old Gulf colors. I like. And
>> the BMW M3 GT cars can't win, even with their cheater motors. Gotta
>> love it.
>>
>> Calvin Krug
>>
>>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 10
>Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 00:10:15 +0200
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>From: Tom Nas <tnas at euronet.nl>
>Subject: Re: :: REGISTRY ::
>Cc: "Mark L. Chang" <mchang at ee.washington.edu>
>
>"Mark L. Chang" <mchang at ee.washington.edu> wrote:
>
>>If you have an entry in the registry, please do the following:
>>
>>1) If you are in the US, please change your state to the official
>>two-letter abbreviation.
>>2) If you have a car in the registry, please change the year to the FOUR
>>digit nomenclature.
>
>And if you have uploaded a picture, check to see if it works... several are
>apparently corrupted and will not display. I wanna see you guys' (and
>gals', naturally) cars!
>
>:-)
>
>Oh, and happy Easter, all.
>
>Tom
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 11
>Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 00:21:44 +0200
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>From: Tom Nas <tnas at euronet.nl>
>Subject: Re: Headlamp bulbs more shock sensitive when hot?
>Cc: "TM" <t44tq at mindspring.com>
>
>"TM" <t44tq at mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>>Today I had one of my H4 80/100s go out on me, but I am
>>not certain if this occurred before my car got slightly
>>bumped in the parking lot or not.
>>
>>Are lightbulbs more shock-sensitive when they're hot?
>
>Yes, they are. The wolfram wire is partially molten when in use, which
>makes it more fragile.
>That's why licence plate lights keep blowing when you're in the habit of
>opening and closing your trunklid with the lights on.
>
>Tom
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 12
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 23:17:18 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Jesse+ Clendenning <AWDAudi at excite.com>
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>Subject: Re: Mixture setting
>
>I'll definately keep you posted!
>
>On Sat, 14 Apr 2001 19:33:55 -0700, one at humanspeakers.com wrote:
>
>>
>> > Thanks guys for your responses and help. I have found the culprit to
>this
>> > problem. Usually I do not get as stumped as this. Fuel
>> > Distributor/injectors. #'s 4 and 5 will squirt constantly as long as
>there
>> > is fuel pressure.
>>
>> at least you found the problem. I hope replacing them fixes it, or at
>> least makes it so you can adjust it right!
>>
>> --
>> Huw Powell
>>
>> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/
>>
>> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________________
>Send a cool gift with your E-Card
>http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 13
>From: edkellock at juno.com
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 00:38:31 -0600
>Subject: Re: Subject: RainX - another testimonial
>
>I have used Rain-X off and on for years and never experienced streaking.
>
>Ed Kellock
>Colorado Springs
>
>On Sat, 14 Apr 2001 14:34:43 -0700 "Craig Lebakken"
><lebakken at cdicadwa.com> writes:
>> Rain-X sucks. It is heroin for windshields. You have to keep
>> applying it once the road grime has abraded through the
>> coating via the pressure/sweeping of the wiper. Granted, it
>> is pretty neat driving with no wipers when the windshield
>> has a fresh coat of Rain-X. Problem is, two weeks later, and
>> you need your wipers in a downpour, you are blind. Streak
>> City.
>>
>> One of the best detailing tricks I ever learned when I
>> worked at a dealership and did LOTS of window cleaning was
>> #0000 steel wool. Use this and window cleaner, and even most
>> of the mineral deposit watermarks are removed. Or, in the
>> case of really bad windshields, the deposits are at least
>> smoothed. With good wipers (Bosch Microedge), visibility is
>> always good. Here in the Pacific Northwest, wipers are
>> important, and a maintenance item more critical than an oil
>> change. Occasional wipedown of the rubber with denatured
>> alcohol also improve wiper effectiveness.
>>
>> I have a nine year old, 90% full bottle of Rain-X on the
>> shelf right now. I keep it for emergencies. Like when the
>> relatives leave at 8:00 p.m. on a rainy night for a 300 mile
>> drive home, and they have neglected the wipers. For one
>> night it works. I make them promise to to clean the
>> windshield as referenced above, and get new wipers
>> (referenced above) the very next day.
>>
>> ****Cautionary note****
>>
>> Steel wool will not scratch _TEMPERED_ glass. Use it on the
>> rear view mirror, and you will be pissed. External glass
>> only.
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> Craig Lebakken
>> 1986 4KQ with newly cracked windshield.
>>
>>
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 14
>From: Orin Eman <orin at WOLFENET.com>
>Subject: Re: A/T advice 2nd request
>To: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco)
>Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 23:47:20 -0700 (PDT)
>Cc: quattro at audifans.com
>
>>
>> Just wondering if anyone can at least explain how the
>> governor works on these automatics found in a type 44.
>>
>> No one replied to my recent post. Sorry to have bored
>
>Probably because no-one knows.
>
>Tranny guts are almost always left to tranny shops IME.
>
>> Really, I am trying to figure out if the governor
>> makes the shifting decisions or is it a regulator of
>> the top speed of the car. The latter seems to be the
>> explaination of how certain GM slushers shift, but the
>
>You mean former? From the pictures, it's a centrifugal
>device. There must be a hydraulic line to and from it.
>You can't really see in the Bentley, but the fact that there
>is a big gasket between the tranny and the diff housing
>is a clue that the lines are there somewhere. Seems like
>it's what gives the 'shift now' signal to the tranny.
>
>Orin.
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 15
>Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 02:57:21 -0700
>From: Huw Powell <audi at mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: one at humanspeakers.com
>Organization: HUMAN Speakers
>To: "Richard J. Andrews" <tech at flashmail.com>
>CC: Jagadeesh Yedetore <jyedetor at cisco.com>, quattro at audifans.com
>Subject: Re: Pain and Pleasure times of the 200 20v
>
>
>> sounds like you need a new mechanic?
>> never heard of a distributor blowing due to a shorted wire...
>> sounds fishy to me..
>>
>> crank has a sprocket?
>> though it was a belt @ the crankshaft via the harmonic balancer...
>> the only (chain) sprocket is in the head connecting the two cams together....
>> now when you say the crank sprocket is sheared do you mean the teeth
>> on the harmonic balancer...
>>
>> possible mr. mechanic goofed and dropped something in your head causing
>> catastrophic damage?
>>
>> anyone care to chime in here?
>
>Without casting any aspersions on our friends esteemed wrencher... the
>story did rather reek, not read right, to me. But I have too little
>(none!) 20v familiarity to cop much of an attitude. Considering the
>number of complete amateurs who have taken the bull by the horns and
>changed the belt/pump on 10v engines without more than the occasional
>awkward oil leak, I might suggest a second opinion on that motors
>condition and how it got that way!
>
>--
>Huw Powell
>
>http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/
>
>http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 16
>Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 03:00:50 -0700
>From: Huw Powell <audi at mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: one at humanspeakers.com
>Organization: HUMAN Speakers
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>Subject: Re: Subject: RainX - another testimonial
>
>
>> << Worked well for a day, then sucked mightily with the smearing. >>
>
>[on a damn salt water fishing boat!?]
>
>>
>> In my own personal experience over the last several years of use, I would
>> have to say that RAIN-X works well for about 2 weeks, under normal, Spring
>> season rainy conditions, then starts to smear and attract the black residue
>> from the wipers, especially if the wipers are newer!
>
>Been using it for about 15 years or so now. Yup, it lasts 2-4 weeks,
>then things are as they were. The whole wipe/wash system works better
>while it is still there. Of course, I've hardly ever had a car with an
>under-100,000 mile windsheild, either...
>
>People's mileage obviously varies...
>
>--
>Huw Powell
>
>http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/
>
>http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 17
>From: JCS_TX at webtv.net (Houston Texas)
>Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 03:50:17 -0500 (CDT)
>To: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas)
>Cc: quattro at audifans.com, t44tq at mindspring.com (TM)
>Subject: Re: Headlamp bulbs more shock sensitive when hot?
>
>
>--WebTV-Mail-3952-683
>Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
>
>IMHO, I'd say the parking lot mishap didn't blow your bulb. Possibly a
>combo of heat and time is more likely. How long have you had them?
>Filaments may be more sensitive when hot, but I'd gather it would take a
>few crater-sized potholes to affect your bulbs being blown. The streets
>around here aren't perfect, but I don't have to swerve around bumps, tar
>strips, or speed breakers for fear of headlights not working. Heck,
>after owning this type44 Q, the only way I know my lights are on is when
>the blue square is lit on the dash. {:-)
>
>Houston
>
>
>--WebTV-Mail-3952-683
>Content-Disposition: Inline
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>To: quattro at audifans.com
>From: Tom Nas <tnas at euronet.nl>
>Subject: Re: Headlamp bulbs more shock sensitive when hot?
>Cc: "TM" <t44tq at mindspring.com>
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>Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 00:21:44 +0200
>
>"TM" <t44tq at mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>>Today I had one of my H4 80/100s go out on me, but I am
>>not certain if this occurred before my car got slightly
>>bumped in the parking lot or not.
>>
>>Are lightbulbs more shock-sensitive when they're hot?
>
>Yes, they are. The wolfram wire is partially molten when in use, which
>makes it more fragile.
>That's why licence plate lights keep blowing when you're in the habit of
>opening and closing your trunklid with the lights on.
>
>Tom
>
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