steering rack info

[Huw Powell]

> So if someone happens to know what date it was that would help alot,
> otherwise I would venture to ask if someone could run through the process
> for me.
> 
> 84 4ksq 190k

here's a lightweight version from fading memory...

obtain:

new/rebuilt rack
two liters of 7.1 mineral fluid (correct me if I'm wrong) one to flush,
one to fill, basically.
perhaps a new little metal pressure line while you're in there
new PS reservoir filter
a few new locknuts - for the tie rod/rack bolts, for the rack mounting,
and I think for the column bolt
new rubber gasket for the steering column hole in the firewall

doing the job (it is highly unpleasant, by the way!)

A lift helps a *lot* but the job can be done without one.  You at least
need the front tires off the ground.

undo everything...

the nuts and bolts that go thru the tie rods
the bolts that hold the tie rod bracket to the rack
the two really hard to get to and turn nuts that hold the rack to the
firewall
the two bolts in the wheel well that hold the end of the rack
the bolt that locks the splined steering wheel shaft to the pinion shaft
and probably the two bolts halfway up the steering column that hold it
together, for manouevering room - there is a metal plate that is bent
against these nuts to prevent them coming loose, just pry it down flat
to get them out.
the pressure and return hydraulic lines at the rack - be prepared to
catch the fluid!

Turn wheel all the way to the left (I think) to make the rack as short
as possible.

Now you must separate the pinion shaft from the steering column lower
half.  This is tough - as I recall it took me a long time and a lot of
efforts with various special big hammers and pullers.  At this point you
are basically pulling the column up away from the rack.

Wrestle the rack out of the car.  This is an exercise in four
dimensional geometry and advanced Buddhism, by the way.  Try to remember
how you twisted, turned and moved it along the way so the new one can be
Rubiked back into place.

Time for break one...

This is when I played at flushing fluid a bit.  The return line will
have dumped all its fluid, I think, so I added some fresh to the
reservoir and cranked the engine with coil wire to run the pump, for
brief intervals, until the stuff that came squirting out of the pressure
line was nice and clean looking.  I probably removed the old filter (in
the reservoir) prior to this and installed the new one afterwards.  Just
be sure not to run the pump dry, by keeping the fluid level up in the
reservoir.

Break one is over, go back to work.

Remove the old firewall seal and install the new one - it has a plastic
frame around the rubber part.

Run the video of rack removal backwards and duplicate all your gymnastic
procedures to get the new rack roughly into place against the firewall. 
Make sure all seems happily located, and replace all the nuts and bolts
you undid earlier using new locknuts.  Leave the steering column to
pinion shaft assembly for later - you'll want to make sure the rack is
centered at the same time as the steering wheel I think.

Now, hook up the hydraulic lines, carefully.  I think I did another
flush phase here, or at least used the pump to fill up the rack till it
spewed clean fluid.

Center the rack, basically by returning the wheels to the straight ahead
position - can be done gently from the tires, since the wheel isn't
hooked up yet.  If you can manage it, get the lower steering column back
on so the wheel is straight as well all at the same time.  If it isn't,
you can always pull the wheel and recenter it - which might be easier,
come to think of it.

Replace and tighten the column to pinion shaft bolt and new locknut and
the two bolts holding the column together, rebending the safety metal
piece that jam the nuts from undoing.

I suspect at this point everything is reassembled and "fluid tight." 
Good time to take break number two, while casually but carefully
checking every nut and bolt you've touched to make sure it's been
reinstalled and torqued properly.  End of break number two...

Fill the PS fluid reservoir to the "full" mark and crank the engine
(coil off still) a few times to get fluid through the lines and rack
etc. as much as possible.  When you're satisfied that the level is
holding pretty steady, reconnect the electrics so the engine will run,
and wiht it running slowly turn the wheel from lock to lock a few times
to finish filling/purging the PS fluid.  Keep an eye on the reservoir
level while doing this.  Pay attention carefully for unpleasant noises
or inconvenient leaks.

Clean everything up carefully, recheck all your nuts and bolts, and
lower the car onto the ground.  Take a short, careful test drive to make
sure everything works, the wheel is centered, and then check again for
leaks.

Take break number three by putting your tools away.  If alcoholic
beverages are mandated as part of your car repair tradition, please do
not perform any more test drives or mechanical work today.

Finally, experience the nervousness which hopefully transforms to
exuberance as you drive the car over the next few days and the wheels
don't fall off, it goes where you point it, etc.

If you need any more information, I can't help, my brain is sucked
dry...

-- 
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/

http://www.humanthoughts.org/