Subject: cv boot replacement 86 5kt

[Richard J Lebens]

On my 20 Valve the original axel bolt/washer required a 27 mm socket. 
The replacement one piece bolt required a 17mm allen wrench.  Bently
says to torque the 16mm bolt to 145 foot punds and then another 1/4
turn (GRUNT).  

You might be able to the get shaft out without seperating the clamp at
the ball joint but I was worried about banging the ABS sensor.

Harbor Freight sells a box of 100 Nitrile gloves for about $8.00.

The outer joint is held on by a spring clip that expands inside the
splines.  On the twenty valve you just turn the axel bolt all the way
in and it pushes it off.

The outer CV joint only allows the shaft to pivot.  The inner one
allows the pivot and change in length.  The inner on is much easirer to
get apart and reassemble.  

--- "Beatty, Robert" <BeattyR at ummhc.org> wrote:
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christopher Ritchie [mailto:critchie1 at hotmail.com]
> 
> 
> Jay Dias wrote:
> Looking for BTDT info, do have bentley. Boot is LH side outer
> (near wheel).
> 
> 
> 1. The Audi cv kit is cheap - ~$10.  It contains everything you need
> - boot,
> 
> circlips, grease, axle nut.
> 2. You need a big socket to get the axle nut off - 23 or 32 mm - i.e.
> one 
> that doesn't come in the usual socket set.  When you get this big,
> you may 
> find that a socket size in inches and fractions fits well.  You'll
> also need
> 
> a big breaker bar and/or pipe extension to get the axle nut off and
> on.  
> Look at the Bentley for torque values.
> 
> 
> I believe the american conversion is 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 cant quite
> remember, but
> it does work.
> 
> 
> 
> 3.  You'll need "triple square" sockets to get the axle shaft off at
> the 
> transmission end.  Hex and torx keys do not fit.  Clean the cavity
> well 
> before inserting the tool.
> 4.  You'll need those special opposite pliers with the tips (I forget
> their 
> name.) to hold the clip open while you pound the hell out of the
> joint to 
> get it off the shaft.
> 
> Snap ring pliers.....
> 
> 5.  You'll need to pound the hell out of the joint where it is
> pressed onto 
> the shaft.  (This bears repeating.)
> 
> there are 2 methods to doing this.  1st method involves separating
> the outer
> joint from the shaft which will require alot of pounding (as
> previously
> stated).
> 
> The 2nd method is to support the inner joint with the shaft free so
> you can
> pound the shaft and the outer joint off as one assembly.  Its easier
> to do
> and less risk of damaging the joint as you are pounding directly on
> the
> shaft instead of the joint as you would be in method one.  After
> removing
> the snap ring on the inner joint, place a large socket or suitable
> piece of
> metal ontop of the shaft and pound it out.  Cut off the old boot from
> the
> outer joint after you have it and the shaft off the inner.  Clean the
> entire
> joint out... completely!  I used brake cleaner as it leaves no
> residue and
> wasnt as dangerous as gasoline.  After the joint is dry, you can
> slide the
> boot down over the shaft and onto the outer joint.  Its rubber so it
> will
> stretch over the 2 metal rings 1/2 down the shaft.  Fill the joint
> with
> grease, USE THE WHOLE PACKET.  Squirt it into the joint untill it
> comes out
> the gaps then put the rest in the boot.  Clamp the boot down with the
> metal
> ring.... and re install in car.
> 
> 
> 6.  You'll need some way to squeeze the bands that hold the rubber
> boot on 
> the shaft.
> 
> Usually wire cutters (dikes) work just fine for this
> 
> 
> 7.  The special grease that comes with the kit stains.
> 8.  You can buy rebuilt axle shafts.
> 9.  Do not move the car, even by rolling it, with the axle shaft out.
>  
> You'll ruin a bearing in there.
> 


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