AC Programmer Manual Conversion or Vacuum Test Jumper

[Matthew Caprio]

Yeah, I did, but the email with the photo got bounced from the list, so I
sent it again sans photo.  Maybe I will save it at a lower res to get it
just under the 40k limit and try again.

Thanks for the feedback.
Matt

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kneale Brownson" <knotnook at traverse.com>
To: "Matthew Caprio" <caprio at flash.net>; "Quattro List"
<quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: AC Programmer Manual Conversion or Vacuum Test Jumper


> Great report, Matthew.  Did you take any photos of the parts involved?
>
> At 06:18 PM 08/21/2001 -0500, Matthew Caprio wrote:
>
> >AC Programmer Manual Conversion or Vacuum Test Jumper
> >
> >Keywords:
> >AC, programmer, solenoid valve, solenoid switch, vacuum switch, vents,
> >flaps, automatic climate control.
> >
> >Applies to:
> >86-88 5000 (and maybe more models and years)
> >
> >Background:
> >The solenoid vacuum valves in Audi AC Programmers control the flow of
> >vacuum to the AC vent actuators.  These solenoid valves have a tendency
to
> >become clogged or contaminated by oil.  Bypassing these solenoid valves
> >can be useful as a diagnostic tool (to determine if the problem is lack
of
> >vacuum, failed signals, or clogged valves), or as a long term solution to
> >convert the programmer to manual operation.
> >
> >Fix:
> >A vacuum line jumper can be made from parts inside the programmer to
route
> >the vacuum input source directly to the vacuum acutators, bypassing the
> >solenoid valves and all their electronics.  This jumper can be left
inside
> >the existing programmer, or can be made with parts from a junked
> >programmer as a stand alone unit.
> >
> >How to make it:
> >The jumper consists of 2 parts and some vacuum hose.  The parts are: 1.)
> >the connector block from the AC programmer where the 6 port vacuum
> >connection plugs in.  2.) the vacuum splitter block from the AC
programmer
> >where the 1 vacuum input is split into 4 lines that normally feed the 4
> >solenoid valves.
> >
> >The ports on the connector block are numbered 1-6.  The ports on the
> >splitter block are numbered 1-6.  Run 4 lines from the connector block
> >ports 1,2,3,4 to the vacuum splitter block ports 3,4,5,6 (the order is
not
> >important).  Run 1 line from the connector block port 5 to the splitter
> >block 2.  Cap off splitter block port 1 with the red rubber cap that
> >should already be on there.
> >
> >Secure all hoses in place with some sort of silicone or glue (nothing
that
> >will be sucked in there and clog up anything).
> >
> >Plug this into the car's clear colored vacuum harness connector with the
> >colorful tubes.  You are ready to run.
> >
> >This arrangement forces the following conditions:
> >-recirc door open (no outside air flowing into cabin)
> >-heater valve closed (no hot coolant flowing into heater core for heat)
> >-all air routed away from defrost
> >-all air redirected fully through dash vents at the driver
> >
> >Notes:
> >This arrangement is best for summer AC mode.
> >All other normal programmer arrangements (defrost, bilevel, etc) can be
> >made manually with this jumper by disconnecting (AND CAPPING) the proper
> >line from the splitter block to the connector block.  Both ends must be
> >capped to prevent vacuum leaks and contamination of the vacuum
> >actuators.  Create your own exciting custom settings!  The following
table
> >indicates what does what:
> >
> >Block Port Number - Harness Line Color - Function
> >1 - red - shuts recirc door AND closes hot flow to heater core (with
> >vacuum applied)
> >2 - yellow - reroutes air from footwell (default) to half center vents
> >bilevel (with vac)
> >3 - green - reroutes air from footwell (default) to full center vents
> >(with vacuum applied)
> >4 - blue - reroutes air from defrost (default) to footwell (with vacuum
> >applied)
> >5 - black - input vacuum source
> >6 - no connection - no function
> >
> >note that port 1 eventually splits to perform 2 functions- closing heater
> >valve and closing recirc door flap.
> >
> >Other notes:
> >The splitter block also contains a check valve which prevents air from
> >flowing in the wrong direction.  Test this check valve before you make
the
> >jumper to ensure you have a reliable one.  To test, supply a vacuum (or
> >suck with your mouth) on a hose to port 2 on the splitter block.  You
> >should be able to suck, but not blow if the check valve is working
properly.
> >
> >Testing the system with the jumper:
> >If the jumper is properly made and installed, and your system directs air
> >as indicated above, then you know that 1.) you have adequate vacuum
coming
> >from your black hose and the "egg crate" accumulator.  2.) that your
> >actuators are working.  3.) there are no vacuum leaks in your colored
> >vacuum hoses going to your actuators.  Any problems that may exist are
> >either in 1.) AC head (generating the commands), 2.) the connections
> >between the head and the programmer, 3.) the programmer itself or a
> >solenoid valve.
> >
> >FYI: a commonly reported problem on these cars is that the return spring
> >breaks on the recirc door to leave it in recirc even with the heat on
> >(acting like the vacuum is applied to port 1, but opening the heater
> >valve).  Or, the bracket which supports the return spring cracks.
Another
> >one is that the hose to the recirc door sometimes falls off.  Oh yeah,
> >also there may be a spurious / weak voltage source to the programmer that
> >sometimes is not enough to actuate the solenoids-- this is real difficult
> >one to diagnose, but that's how I learned all of the above in the
> >process.  I'm sure there are more, since this system does NOT age well,
> >but I haven't heard them all.
> >
> >Good luck, and I hope the list can benefit from this hard learned info.
> >Matthew Caprio
> >Austin, TX
> >88 5ksQ
>