Detecting brake line wear?

[Brett Dikeman]

On Mon, 10 Dec 2001, Robert Deis wrote:

> Also, I noticed some surface cracks in the brake line rubber on all 4
> wheels- how worried about that should I be?  Are these things dangerous
> now and in need of immediate replacement?

Mmm, maybe, so probably not worth risking.  If you want to be all
fancy-like, get a set of DOT-approved stainless steel lines, you'll
probably never have to worry about it again.  I have no idea what
replacement OEM lines cost, whichever is cheaper is what I would get.
Knowing Audi, its probably the SS lines :-)  Either one will certainly
last you until the wheels fall off.


> Lastly, is there a trick to disconnecting the e-brake cables on the rear
> calipers? Neither caliper will let go of the rotor, but I think it's just
> because the cables are hooked...  There are signs of rust in the cable
> housings, but I hadn't noticed and degredation in e-brake operation yet.
> I suppose I should replace those, too.

Rust in the cables is one of many things that will cause the calipers to
fail to release the rotor.

Use a screwdriver to pry the lever towards the cable, then with a second
small screw driver, pop the cable off the lever.

If the calipers still have a good grip, then you can try stripping them
down and cleaning them up(lubing guide pins, popping out the e-brake
shaft+cleaning up/lubing that, etc)  Instructions are in the
archives(somewhere :-)  Remember, you CANNOT just yank the piston out on
these.  They MUST be turned(counter-clockwise) out of the caliper, that's
what the indentations are for, a tool to turn them out.  The same is true
with putting new pads in, the piston must be turned in(clockwise), NOT
pushed in.

B