power lock pump 4kq help

[Craig Lebakken]

To: WAUFX at aol.com, one at humanspeakers.com
From: Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com>
Subject: Re: power lock pump 4kq help
Cc: quattro at audifans.com

--
At 02:22 AM 12/20/2001 -0500, WAUFX at aol.com wrote:

>  where
>does the wiring usually break? any BTDTs? all help is
greatly appreciated.
>thanks!

Kneale Brownson responded:

"Driver doorjamb wiring.

I understood the pump would run when vacuum gets to a
minimum
level.  Intermittent failure of unlock mode may be poor
electrical
connection?  Maybe contact cleaning and enhancer would
help."

My bet is on this. I went a couple of years without power
locks because of a break in the doorjamb wiring (and a
couple of inoperable windows too!). It is a fairly easy fix,
once you disassemble things enough to get at the wiring
break.

This requires:

1.) Pulling inside door panel, and unplugging the harness
from the door lock mechanism and power window motor. Undo
the wires from all of the various clips inside the door.
This will allow you to pull the harness back into the car.

2.) On the left side of the drivers footwell, there is a
carpet panel that is held in by the door seal(aft side), and
a screw that is buried under the carpet, in the forward
lower corner. Peel back the carpet to expose the screw and
remove. Glue back the carpet when done. Not knowing this, I
broke mine.

3.) Pull the seals on the corregated rubber boot that
provides the flexible seal between the door and the car
body. Shove as best possible to either side to see what you
are doing.

4.) This exposes the conduit that contains the wires. What
you will likely see is that this plastic has broken, thereby
defeating the purpose it had in the first place, which was
to increase the radius through which the wires were bent
when opening and closing the door. Now that the plastic has
cracked, the bending is focused at this point. You will find
your broken wires here.

5.) It would be difficult to reconnect the wires in the
cramped space between the door and the body, so begin to
carefully pull the harness into the car at the footwell.
This will be a _slightly_ better space in which to operate.

6.) Carefully slit the plastic conduit with a razor for a
few inches to expose the wires at the break. Cut/expose the
copper wires as required to either use electrical butt
connectors, or solder them. I soldered mine.

7.) Once all of the wires are reconnected, wrap the conduit
with electrical tape to reseal it, as well as give it the
strength it originally had, in order to increase the bend
radius of the wire.

8.) Put back together.

If I had to do this all over again, I would be tempted to
add a female electrical socket to the wires inside the car,
and the ones inside the door. Then make a "splice" harness
with two male ends that travels through the rubber boot to
inside the door. This would provide new wires through the
critical point, as well as facilitate replacement should it
be necessary.

HTH

Craig Lebakken
1986 4KQ