power lock pump 4kq help

[Huw Powell]

> ok, i managed to test the pump without letting the + and - leads touch...
> (which was the cause of the green spark).

well, that's a relief.  At least you didn't hurt the car part!

Now, I hope you are taking notes and photos so you can document this
repair for a web site...

> the pump runs every time i make it locks the locks and some of the time when
> i make the locks unlock (by jumpering) i hooked up the pump to the vacuum
> line and to the electrical connection on the car. tried to lock the locks.
> nothing. i then disconnected the electrical part,
> but left the vacuum line on and was able to run the pump to lock and unlock
> the doors many times.
> however...it runs every time i try to lock, but not every time i try to
> unlock, just

Definitely do not zip the project up until that pump is consistently
performing *both* its functions.  If needed, another pump should go in
rather than the one that does not work right.  You have also now checked
that the vacuum lines and actuators are all good.  Good.


> does this sound like a combination of bad wiring in the car and a flaky pump?

as I said, do not install and rely on that pump until it *always* works
in both directions.

It is my belief that the pump runs on a timer - there is no vacuum or
pressure threshold at which they cut out.  You might possibly not be
letting it run all the way to end of the "lock" cycle before trying to
"unlock," but that is unlikely, I only mention it as a possibility.

Now turn to page 97.200 in your Bentley.  I know, it's the wrong car,
but its the one I photocopied.  You can always find the same drawing for
your year and model if you want.

Start at the beginning - in the fuse box.  Fuse 19, 10 Amp, should be
getting battery voltage (always on no matter what key position) on its
hot side, the fuse should be good, and the battery voltage should then
be present on its fused side as well.  If the fuse is blown, it may
indicate a pump draawing too much current, or a wire shorted to ground
somewhere.

If that checks out, make a note that the wire leaves the fusebox at M 30
az, which I think is a single tab connector.  You might need to check
that, too, but it is unlikely to have fallen off.

A red/black wire then proceeds through the spaghetti mess under your
drivers side dashboard and into the door.

Yup, it's time to remove that door panel if it's not already off.

This wire goes all the way to the drivers door lock vacuum actuator,
which is pretty much below the lock knob, at the rear of the door.

There will be a three pin connector at the actuator.  Undo it.  Use your
voltmeter to check for 12v at the center (#2) terminal.  if it is not
there, then this wire is probably broken in the door jamb.  make a note
of that.  (If your fuse was blown, you should be checking for continuity
between the "fused" side of the fuse holder and this terminal - and
ground, since a short would also mean continuity to ground.  If your
fuse was blown, also try measuring that resistance to ground while
movign the door around.)

Next, the switch in the actuator has two wires leaving it.  test the
actuator for continuity between pins 2 & 3 and pins 2 & 1, each should
be good, one for locked and the other for unlocked.  Now check the
continuity between pin 1 of the door connector and pin 1 of the pump
connector and ground, ditto for pins #3 on each.  There should be no
resistance (zero ohms) between the pins, and infinite resistance between
all of them and ground.

If the wires (green/blue and green/red) from the actuator to the pump
connector are good, try running 12 volts along them to the pump to make
it work.

By now you have probably found one or more differences between "what
should be" and "what is," and hopefully you have been taking notes of
where the discrepancies lie.  Fixing all of them at once is easier than
doing them one at a time and still finding that things do not work.
That is why you do such an exhaustive troubleshooting process first.

If you do have problems with the wiring, the nost likely location for
breaks/shorts is in the door jamb boot, but they could be elsewhere
along the way if you are really unlucky.  if you are going into that
boot to fix breaks, one, remember to replace a section of wire aobut a
foot long to keep your splices in the door and in the car (under the
litle kick panel - pull up its little bit of carpet to reveal its fixing
screw, and undo the hood release handle screws as well), not in the
moving area, and two, to look at all the other wires for damage while
you're in there. If any of your door controls don't work, their wires
may also be hurt. Only cut one wire at a time, to avoid confusion in the
splicing process.

Now fix whatever was busted properly, and test the system without
closing anything up.  When you're convinced that it will keep working
100% (no less!) of the time, then you can replace all the parts where
they belong.  I recommend testing the system at each stage of reassembly
to ensure against accidents - if it suddenly stops working, at least you
know you only did one thing since it last worked.

Good luck!

--
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/

http://www.humanthoughts.org/