Audi for sale - 1990 100Q
Leslie Carlson
nhollow at sover.net
Fri Dec 21 07:06:21 EST 2001
Hi all,
My daughter has decided to go back to California, without her car. It is a
1990 100Q. It has 163,000 miles on it, new tires, brakes, alternator,
radiator, master cylinder, timing belt. What it needs to be perfect: you
have to unlock the car from the passenger side, heater in drivers seat
doesn't work, air conditioner pump is seized and we dissconected the belt,
radio sucks - but sometimes works. Wipers don't work on intermittant, but
work on all other settings. It has a broken right front directional lense.
And last, she just told me that one of her headlights is out.
It has no rust, color is burgandy, she drives it every day. The car can be
seen in Massachusetts (in Stow, or Concord - where she works), or Rochester,
Vermont - she can drive it up here. She wants to get $2,500 for it, she is
going back to school and needs the money.
Whatever this car has needed mechanically has been done, other than what is
mentioned above. It has been serviced regularly and had a very expensive
complete tune up 4 months ago just before she drove it from California to
Florida then to Vermont.
Thanks!
Leslie Carlson
----- Original Message -----
From: <quattro-request at audifans.com>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 12:17 AM
Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #2634 - 15 msgs
> Send quattro mailing list submissions to
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>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re:power lock pump 4kq help (Huw Powell)
> 2. 4cyl front end on a 5cyl 4000 (ScottyCBoy at aol.com)
> 3. Re:Radiator Swappability (Michael Gough)
> 4. Re:Family Album irritation (Mihnea Cotet)
> 5. Stupid Parking Lot Drivers (TM)
> 6. Re:power lock pump 4kq help (Brian Devlin)
> 7. Re:power lock pump 4kq help (Huw Powell)
> 8. Re:power locks (Huw Powell)
> 9. 90q missing on cyl 5...ideas? (Dave Hord)
> 10. Article on Audi Multitronic transmission (Andrew Buc)
> 11. Re:Performance tip for throttle body? (Larry C Leung)
> 12. Re:MC engine Throttle body to Intercooler Silicon hose (Larry C
Leung)
> 13. Re:90q missing on cyl 5...ideas? (Huw Powell)
> 14. MC-2 oversized pistons or not? (Jim Green)
> 15. FS:90 90 20v quattro (Mark Rutherford)
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 17:59:51 -0500
> From: Huw Powell <audi at mediaone.net>
> Reply-To: one at humanspeakers.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: WAUFX at aol.com
> CC: quattro at audifans.com, Huw Powell <audi at mediaone.net>
> Subject: Re: power lock pump 4kq help
>
>
>
> > ok, i managed to test the pump without letting the + and - leads
touch...
> > (which was the cause of the green spark).
>
> well, that's a relief. At least you didn't hurt the car part!
>
> Now, I hope you are taking notes and photos so you can document this
> repair for a web site...
>
> > the pump runs every time i make it locks the locks and some of the time
when
> > i make the locks unlock (by jumpering) i hooked up the pump to the
vacuum
> > line and to the electrical connection on the car. tried to lock the
locks.
> > nothing. i then disconnected the electrical part,
> > but left the vacuum line on and was able to run the pump to lock and
unlock
> > the doors many times.
> > however...it runs every time i try to lock, but not every time i try to
> > unlock, just
>
> Definitely do not zip the project up until that pump is consistently
> performing *both* its functions. If needed, another pump should go in
> rather than the one that does not work right. You have also now checked
> that the vacuum lines and actuators are all good. Good.
>
>
> > does this sound like a combination of bad wiring in the car and a flaky
pump?
>
> as I said, do not install and rely on that pump until it *always* works
> in both directions.
>
> It is my belief that the pump runs on a timer - there is no vacuum or
> pressure threshold at which they cut out. You might possibly not be
> letting it run all the way to end of the "lock" cycle before trying to
> "unlock," but that is unlikely, I only mention it as a possibility.
>
> Now turn to page 97.200 in your Bentley. I know, it's the wrong car,
> but its the one I photocopied. You can always find the same drawing for
> your year and model if you want.
>
> Start at the beginning - in the fuse box. Fuse 19, 10 Amp, should be
> getting battery voltage (always on no matter what key position) on its
> hot side, the fuse should be good, and the battery voltage should then
> be present on its fused side as well. If the fuse is blown, it may
> indicate a pump draawing too much current, or a wire shorted to ground
> somewhere.
>
> If that checks out, make a note that the wire leaves the fusebox at M 30
> az, which I think is a single tab connector. You might need to check
> that, too, but it is unlikely to have fallen off.
>
> A red/black wire then proceeds through the spaghetti mess under your
> drivers side dashboard and into the door.
>
> Yup, it's time to remove that door panel if it's not already off.
>
> This wire goes all the way to the drivers door lock vacuum actuator,
> which is pretty much below the lock knob, at the rear of the door.
>
> There will be a three pin connector at the actuator. Undo it. Use your
> voltmeter to check for 12v at the center (#2) terminal. if it is not
> there, then this wire is probably broken in the door jamb. make a note
> of that. (If your fuse was blown, you should be checking for continuity
> between the "fused" side of the fuse holder and this terminal - and
> ground, since a short would also mean continuity to ground. If your
> fuse was blown, also try measuring that resistance to ground while
> movign the door around.)
>
> Next, the switch in the actuator has two wires leaving it. test the
> actuator for continuity between pins 2 & 3 and pins 2 & 1, each should
> be good, one for locked and the other for unlocked. Now check the
> continuity between pin 1 of the door connector and pin 1 of the pump
> connector and ground, ditto for pins #3 on each. There should be no
> resistance (zero ohms) between the pins, and infinite resistance between
> all of them and ground.
>
> If the wires (green/blue and green/red) from the actuator to the pump
> connector are good, try running 12 volts along them to the pump to make
> it work.
>
> By now you have probably found one or more differences between "what
> should be" and "what is," and hopefully you have been taking notes of
> where the discrepancies lie. Fixing all of them at once is easier than
> doing them one at a time and still finding that things do not work.
> That is why you do such an exhaustive troubleshooting process first.
>
> If you do have problems with the wiring, the nost likely location for
> breaks/shorts is in the door jamb boot, but they could be elsewhere
> along the way if you are really unlucky. if you are going into that
> boot to fix breaks, one, remember to replace a section of wire aobut a
> foot long to keep your splices in the door and in the car (under the
> litle kick panel - pull up its little bit of carpet to reveal its fixing
> screw, and undo the hood release handle screws as well), not in the
> moving area, and two, to look at all the other wires for damage while
> you're in there. If any of your door controls don't work, their wires
> may also be hurt. Only cut one wire at a time, to avoid confusion in the
> splicing process.
>
> Now fix whatever was busted properly, and test the system without
> closing anything up. When you're convinced that it will keep working
> 100% (no less!) of the time, then you can replace all the parts where
> they belong. I recommend testing the system at each stage of reassembly
> to ensure against accidents - if it suddenly stops working, at least you
> know you only did one thing since it last worked.
>
> Good luck!
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 2
> From: ScottyCBoy at aol.com
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 17:57:06 EST
> Subject: 4cyl front end on a 5cyl 4000
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
>
> I gots a question. On my 4000QT I am using S6 accesories (A/C P/S pump and
=
> Alt) and the associated Serpentine belt. using the serpentine system saves
=
> about an inch on the harmonic balancer. Would a lower apron from a 4000 4
c=
> yl clear the balancer? Has anyone ever gotten a tap measure out and
measure=
> d everything? I would love to stick a big intercooler in front of the
engin=
> e!
>
> Scott
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 15:21:26 -0800
> Subject: Re: Radiator Swappability
> From: "Michael Gough" <mdg3369 at mac.com>
> To: quattro at audifans.com
>
> Javad wrote:
> > The only other option you have is to use the all metal radiator from the
> > earlier T85 cars such as the 4kq. Only from the factory were they all
metal,
> > even the replacements are plastic. BUT, this radiator does not have the
> > provision for the Aux. radiator...realistically you should just replace
yours
> > with a stock plastic rad, it will last another 10 years.
>
> Or......You could use the radiator from a ur-q, it is all metal, and has
the
> extra provision for the Aux. radiator. Probably not a very cost effective
> alternative though :)
> Mike
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 00:28:37 +0100
> To: "Phil Payne" <quattro at isham-research.com>, <quattro at audifans.com>
> From: Mihnea Cotet <mik at info.fundp.ac.be>
> Subject: Re: Family Album irritation
>
> At 23:51 20/12/2001 +0100, Phil Payne wrote:
> >I had an interesting idea a couple of days ago, when I was thinking about
> >parts commonality. Wouldn't it be an idea to drive a
> >parts system backwards - i.e., I have a car in front of me at a breaker's
> >- what does it have that would fit a Type nn?
> >
> >A fairly easy problem to solve with appropriate application of IT - but
> >not one forseen in any Audi system. A lot of data, too ...
> >
> >My ultimate goal is a WAP application - input the VIN of what you've
found
> >and the system SMSes you back with what you should take
> >off it.
> >
> >So I set about extracting data from a system we all know and love,
> >automatically building .HTML files after sorting and knocking out
> >duplicates. And duplicates started to worry me.
> >
> >There really are genuine duplicates in the raw data - every item that is
> >on the bottom row of a page is on the top row of the next
> >page. This isn't done by clever programming - they actually generate
> >these entries twice!
> >
> >I've just spent twenty minutes looking for a bug that's actually in
> >someone else's code.
>
> Now that's one of the best ideas that I've heard of ever! I sincerely wish
> you good luck with this project and I hope it'll be done soon!
>
> Keep us posted about this please, Phil!
>
> Regards,
>
> Mihnea
>
> '85 -OOOO- Coupe quattro
>
> http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewCar&carid=350
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 5
> From: "TM" <t44tq at mindspring.com>
> To: "Quattro List" <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: Stupid Parking Lot Drivers
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:26:29 -0500
>
> It must be bad karma- I take excruciating care to avoid damage to my
> car in parking lots and still it gets hit.
>
> Some nice person cracked my taillight yesterday, didn't notice it until
> this afternoon. Great- at least my new taillights should be coming in
> shortly, if all goes to plan.
>
> I hope those inconsiderate, incompetent drivers get a taste of their
> own medicine this Xmas season.
>
> Any idea how much OEM Hella taillights are for a '91 200q?
>
> Feeling very unjolly,
> Taka
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 15:51:00 -0800
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> From: Brian Devlin <bdevlin at stanford.edu>
> Subject: Re: power lock pump 4kq help
>
> >
> >It is my belief that the pump runs on a timer - there is no vacuum or
> >pressure threshold at which they cut out. You might possibly not be
> >letting it run all the way to end of the "lock" cycle before trying to
> >"unlock," but that is unlikely, I only mention it as a possibility.
> >
> >
>
> Actually they will run much longer if there's a vacuum leak, half a
> minute or so.
> -Brian
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 20:05:06 -0500
> From: Huw Powell <audi at mediaone.net>
> Reply-To: one at humanspeakers.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: Brian Devlin <bdevlin at stanford.edu>
> CC: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: power lock pump 4kq help
>
>
>
> > >It is my belief that the pump runs on a timer - there is no vacuum or
> > >pressure threshold at which they cut out. You might possibly not be
> > >letting it run all the way to end of the "lock" cycle before trying to
> > >"unlock," but that is unlikely, I only mention it as a possibility.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Actually they will run much longer if there's a vacuum leak, half a
> > minute or so.
>
> You may be right - I am shooting from the hip on that one (as I suspect
> most are) - the thing that matters is to experiment and test the theory,
> or to find corroborating information in the Bentley description. it
> certainly would make sense for the unit to have a pressure threshold
> cutoff, as well as a timer, although it is not critically important to
> know if they do in order to troubleshoot the system.
>
> a few minutes playing a spare pump, pressure accumulator and a 2A 12v
> power supply didn't help much. I'll try again some time with more than
> one pump and a beefier supply...
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 22:35:57 -0500
> From: Huw Powell <audi at mediaone.net>
> Reply-To: one at humanspeakers.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> CC: Megan <WAUFX at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: power locks
>
> I left out one more electrical place to verify... the pump and control
> unit is grounded nearby, inside the trunk. Follow the brown wire to a
> ring terminal and see how good that is too.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 9
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: 90q missing on cyl 5...ideas?
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 22:53:56 -0500 (EST)
> From: Dave Hord <spokes at mail.the-wire.com>
>
> Hey gang...got a problem with the q.
>
> The car: 1989 90 quattro
> The engine: 10 valve, Naturally aspirated. Stock.
> The problem:
>
> Dry weather -> Car drives perfectly fine.
> First Snow/Freeze -> Car was fine, halfway home car began to idle like it
had a
> REALLY lumpy cam in it. Hit the gas...car almost dies, backfires in the
> manifold/downpipe...then suddenly revs up and away you go. Keep it above
> 3000rpm otherwise car drives like it's missing.
>
> At home I checked the wires, plugs, cap and rotor. Cylinder 5 (closest to
> firewall) has spark, but does not have a combustion reaction. This is
evident
> as car idles no different if you pull the 5th sparkplug wire. It idles
rougher
> if you pull any other wires.
>
> Tossed the car in the garage for the night, put some gas-line anti-freeze
in
> the tank. The next day was above freezing...no problems.
>
> No problems all week. I'm now on my third full tank of gas.
>
> It snowed today -> but above freezing snow. Car ran great for an
hour...then
> the problem returned. I have parked the car outside tonight...partly to
tempt
> fate, partly to see if warming up/drying out the car solves the problem,
or if
> it just needs to 'sit'.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Current thought is perhaps an electrical problem with the 5th
injector..perhaps
> effected by water/dampness?
>
> TIA
> Please reply directly, as I'm not recieving list messages at the moment.
> -Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------------
> 89 90q 300,000km!!!!!!!!
> http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 20:08:06 -0500
> To: Quattro List <quattro at audifans.com>
> From: Andrew Buc <abuc at attglobal.net>
> Reply-To: Andrew Buc <abuc at attglobal.net>
> Subject: Article on Audi Multitronic transmission
>
> http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/at_011212.htm
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 11
> To: Ravewar at rogers.com
> Cc: l.leung at juno.com, mannix at rmsolo.org, ricematthews at msn.com,
> quattro at audifans.com
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 17:50:23 -0500
> Subject: Re: Performance tip for throttle body?
> From: Larry C Leung <l.leung at juno.com>
>
> That car had the larger TB too.
>
> On Wed, 19 Dec 2001 21:52:50 -0500 "Rave Racer" <Ravewar at rogers.com>
> writes:
> >
> > I didn't have enough research on it, so I didn't do it. The one I
> >drove
> >was an 85 8V Golf. The change in the power might be attributed to the
> >age
> >of the car.
> >
> > Rave Racer
> >'89 Jetta 1.8L 16V GTX
> > http://www.vwot.org/members/Pete.html
> >'87 Audi 4000 Quattro Sedan
> > http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewCar&carid=110
> >'72 Triumph GT6
> > http://motorcities.com/contents/01I3H011116682.html
> >'83 Toyota Tercel (yoda) Possible future Sandrail donor... Maybe
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Larry C Leung <l.leung at juno.com>
> >To: <Ravewar at rogers.com>
> >Cc: <mannix at rmsolo.org>; <ricematthews at msn.com>;
> ><quattro at audifans.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 6:24 PM
> >Subject: Re: Performance tip for throttle body?
> >
> >
> >Your 16V Jetta already had the bigger bore TB.
> >
> >LL - NY
> >
> >On Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:47:32 -0500 "Rave Racer" <Ravewar at rogers.com>
> >writes:
> >>
> >> When I had my 16V Jetta the rumor was the TB from a 5000 would
> >fit
> >>and
> >>was had bigger bore. I never tried it but I drove one that was
> >>rumored to
> >>have it. Unfortunately I couldn't verify it, but I did find that it
> >>had
> >>quicker pickup in the lower revs. I would guess that it just moved
> >>the
> >>functional power to a different part of the rev range.
> >>
> >> Rave Racer
> >>'89 Jetta 1.8L 16V GTX
> >> http://www.vwot.org/members/Pete.html
> >>'87 Audi 4000 Quattro Sedan
> >> http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewCar&carid=110
> >>'72 Triumph GT6
> >> http://motorcities.com/contents/01I3H011116682.html
> >>'83 Toyota Tercel (yoda) Possible future Sandrail donor...
> >Maybe
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: Iain Mannix <mannix at rmsolo.org>
> >>To: <JShadzi at aol.com>
> >>Cc: <ricematthews at msn.com>; <quattro at audifans.com>
> >>Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 11:10 AM
> >>Subject: Re: Performance tip for throttle body?
> >>
> >>
> >>Exactly. And, from what he's saying, it sounds like he's doing
> >>this to a non-turbo, Golf-esque TB - if you put that screw in like
> >>he's talking about, the secondary will not open fully unless you
> >>grind away the aluminium stop on the tb casting.
> >>
> >>I've played with this, and it does _feel_ better, in some ways, but
> >>it does not increase airflow into the engine - and without grinding
> >>the stop/allowing the secondary to open fully, it probably
> >>loses(kinda
> >>has to) some high end power.
> >>
> >>100hp? Not a chance. -3hp? Probably.
> >>
> >>
> >>Iain Mannix(kinda like the old Weber Big Throat for VWs - they
> >>feel monstrous on tip-in, but in reality, they're no faster, just
> >>harder to modulate...)
> >>
> >>On Tue, 18 Dec 2001 JShadzi at aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >>> Ok, this guy is really confused, 100hp by opening the same
> >throttle
> >>body a
> >>> little sooner??? Its not like airflow into the motor is
> >increasing,
> >>the
> >>> final WOT condition is exactly the same. What he is doing is
> >>basically
> >>> re-calibrating the throttle cam on the throttle body to open the
> >TB
> >>more,
> >>> sooner, but not actually open it more overall. He is feeling that
> >>what
> >>used
> >>> to be 1/2 distance travel with the "gas pedal" is now at 1/4
> >>travel.
> >>>
> >>> If you do this, you will make the on-off throttle transition more
> >>sharp,
> >>and
> >>> inevitably, more jerky. Everytime you get back on the gas the car
> >>will
> >>lurch
> >>> and the motor will snap back and forth on its mounts, not very
> >>pleasant
> >>IMO.
> >>>
> >>> Anyway, you can try it, but its not worth even 1hp.
> >>>
> >>> Javad
> >>> 80tq.com
> >>>
> >>> In a message dated 12/18/2001 12:24:58 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> >>> ricematthews at msn.com writes:
> >>>
> >>> << Has anyone out there heard of the below described performance
> >>tip? I
> >>saw
> >>> this on the site www.grandtouring.com and wondered if this had
> >any
> >>merit.
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Mark
> >>>
> >>> "I WOULD LIKE TO SHARE A TIP WITH AUDI ENTHUSIASTS WHO LOVE THE
> >>EXTRA
> >>POWER
> >>> WHEN THE SECOND LARGER THROTTLE KICKS IN. PICK UP A SCREW AT THE
> >>HARDWARE
> >>> STORE FOR 5 CENTS THAT HAS A 5/16" OR 3/8" WIDE CAP WITH A SCREW
> >>LENGTH
> >>OF
> >>> ABOUT 1/2" AND DROP IT INTO THE SLOT ON TOP OF THE THROTTLE
> >LINKAGE
> >>WHERE
> >>A
> >>> SMALL PIECE OF METAL HAS TO TRAVEL ABOUT 3/8" BEFORE IT HITS THE
> >>SECOND
> >>> THROTTLE ARM. BY BRIDGING THIS GAP WITH THIS SCREW THE LARGE AND
> >>SMALL
> >>> THROTTLE S OPEN IMMEDIATELY WHEN YOU GIVE IT GAS AND FEELS LIKE
> >>ABOUT 200
> >>> HP. I DONT FIND CHANGE IN GAS MILEAGE BUT THE CRUISE CONTROL IS
> >NOT
> >>AS
> >>> SMOOTH AS IT SURGES SLIGHTLY AND ON LONG TRIPS I JUST POP THE
> >HOOD
> >>AND
> >>PULL
> >>> IT OUT AND PUT IT BACK IN THE CITY. WITH THE SMALLER 5/16" SCREW
> >I
> >>DO NOT
> >>> FIND IT A PROBLEM ONLY WITH THE 3/8" WIDE CAP SCREW. THE
> >DIFFERENCE
> >>IS
> >>> UNBELIEVABLE 100 HORSEPOWER FOR 5 CENTS.DOESNOT WORK FOR SOME
> >TURBO
> >>AUDI
> >>> MODELS WHICH HAVE NO GAP TO PUT THE SCREW AS IT HAVES DIFFERENT
> >>LINKAGE"
> >>> >>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 12
> To: quattro at centurytel.net
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 17:55:43 -0500
> Subject: Re: MC engine Throttle body to Intercooler Silicon hose
> From: Larry C Leung <l.leung at juno.com>
>
> ABSOLUTELY. Count me in!
>
> LL - NY
>
> On Wed, 19 Dec 2001 18:40:01 -0800 "Joseph Rae" <quattro at centurytel.net>
> writes:
> >Hey Everybody,
> >
> >I am in the process of having a silicon Michelin Man Hose with port
> >for
> >bypass valve made for my 5kcstq. This hose will work better then
> >other
> >silicon hoses as it will fit the teardrop shaped throttle body of the
> >MC
> >better, and will not be straight like the current hose that you can
> >get
> >at TAP, but will have a slight bend it in.
> >The reason for this is that the TAP hose wears out pretty quickly due
> >to
> >the pointy end of the teardrop throttle body rubbing, Also the hose
> >needs to be Bent, and tries to pull itself off the throttle body.
> >
> >Currently the Silicon hose from TAP is $115 dollars
> >http://www.tap1.com/Brakes___Hoses/samcol.jpg (he purple one)
> >Once I get the design worked out, I decided to sell these hoses,
> >Should
> >be half of what the TAP Samco hose costs.
> >
> >I am wondering if anyone would be interested in such a hose for use
> >with
> >a bypass valve?
> >
> >Thanks in advance
> >
> >Joe
> >
> >
> >
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 23:55:07 -0500
> From: Huw Powell <audi at mediaone.net>
> Reply-To: one at humanspeakers.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: Dave Hord <spokes at mail.the-wire.com>
> CC: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: 90q missing on cyl 5...ideas?
>
> > Current thought is perhaps an electrical problem with the 5th
injector..perhaps
> > effected by water/dampness?
>
> That's one thing it can't be... your injectors have no electrical
> "things" to go wrong.
>
> My first thought is that the fifth spark wire is not as good as it
> seems. Second is that the dist cap is slightly worse at the contact for
> #5, third, that the #5 plug is iffy...
>
> > The car: 1989 90 quattro
> > The engine: 10 valve, Naturally aspirated. Stock.
> > The problem:
> >
> > Dry weather -> Car drives perfectly fine.
> > First Snow/Freeze -> Car was fine, halfway home car began to idle like
it had a
> > REALLY lumpy cam in it. Hit the gas...car almost dies, backfires in the
> > manifold/downpipe...then suddenly revs up and away you go. Keep it
above
> > 3000rpm otherwise car drives like it's missing.
> >
> > At home I checked the wires, plugs, cap and rotor. Cylinder 5 (closest
to
> > firewall) has spark, but does not have a combustion reaction. This is
evident
> > as car idles no different if you pull the 5th sparkplug wire. It idles
rougher
> > if you pull any other wires.
>
> >
> > TIA
> > Please reply directly, as I'm not recieving list messages at the moment.
> > -Dave
> >
> > ---------------------------------------
> > 89 90q 300,000km!!!!!!!!
> > http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 20:54:31 -0800 (PST)
> From: Jim Green <jeg1976 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: MC-2 oversized pistons or not?
> To: Quattro list <quattro at audifans.com>
>
> I've got my spare MC-2 block stripped, getting ready
> to rebuild the bottom end. There is a little wear at
> the top of the cylinders, I though it was crud at
> first. I cleaned everything up and there is a very
> small wear line. Can't catch it with a fingernail,
> but can barely feel it with your finger. I haven't
> measured anything yet, but want to know how large the
> bore can be before you have to move to oversized
> pistons? I don't have a Bently that covers that for
> this engine. I'd like to have the cylinders cleaned
> up by a pro, then fit some new rings, hopefully
> avoiding new pistons.
> TIA,
>
> =====
> Jim Green
> '89 90tq EFI
> http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
> your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
> or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 15
> From: "Mark Rutherford" <5kcstq at sisna.com>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: FS:90 90 20v quattro
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 22:00:51 -0800
>
> My wife has found a 92 BMW 535i she want's bad. Her 1990 90 20 valve
> quattro will be for sale in the near future. I thought that I would offer
it
> on the list first. This will leave me with only 4 Audi's. I am
sckeptical
> about buying a BMW, any advice or warnings about BMW's. The only reason I
> am considering it is that it is a very good buy from a dealer freind of
> mine.
>
> The details are:
>
> Located in central Utah
> 175, 000 miles
> Red with gray leather seats
> New paint 18 months ago
> Timing belt, water pump, and idleer pully replaced 1500 miles ago
> Mobil 1 for the last 35,000 miles
>
>
> The Bed parts:
>
> Rear defoger switch does not work
> Large chip in passanger headlight
> Problems with HVAC
> Wear on driver seat side.
>
>
> The rest of the car is in very good condition.
>
>
> Anyone interested can contact me at (435)637-8381
> or 5kcstq at sisna.com
>
> T
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> _______________________________________________
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> quattro at audifans.com
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>
>
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