Delrin drive shaft support
james accordino
ssgacc at yahoo.com
Thu Feb 15 06:20:08 EST 2001
--- "S. Jaworski" <syljay at optonline.net> wrote:
> A couple of weeks ago, I did some research in the
> audi archives and got some
> info on MB parts that may work on the audi.
>
> I recently purchased a center support bearing by
> Mercedes Benz P/n 123 410
> 10 81. This part is made by Weyle of Germany. There
> is a part number cast
> into the bearing support ring - Meyle 014 041 0045
> The bearing is also an MB part made by Weyle of
> Germany P/N 014 098 0017.
> Parts were purchased thru RPM Foreign Auto Parts,
> Stanhope, NJ
> 973-448-0440
>
> I think both parts cost me about $50 . . . I dont
> have the bill to check
> against.
>
> Now the bracket from MB isn't the same as the Audi
> bracket. But, it looks
> like that audi bearing support is only welded in two
> spots to its bracket.
> It looks like it may be possible to grind off the
> welds. Then place the old
> bracket on top of the MB bracket(plenty of room and
> diameters are close),
> and tack weld it in two spots. Voila! Its done.
>
> I'm not sure if the MB flanges will interfere with
> anything . . they may
> have to be ground off.
>
> Best of all, you dont need any skilled labor to do
> it. The hardest part is
> the welding . . but, two spot welds should'nt cost
> that much. Actually, you
> might be able to epoxy the MB bracket to the Audi
> bracket. Some super duper
> epoxy might work. Kind of risky . .if it lets go,
> the drive shaft will flop
> around there . . .you wont be able to drive. There
> is enough room on the
> brackets to think up of some mechanical fastening
> system if you cant get to
> a welder.
>
> Mind you, I havent tried this out yet. But, it sure
> looks feasible when
> looking at the parts on my desk.
>
> I would give this a try before going the Delrin
> route.
>
This is a repeat of a previous post:
I posted this previously and can confirm the p/n's are
correct. I paid $9 for the bearing and $15 for the
support from Import Parts Specialists in Boise, Idaho
on 21 Dec 99. The support is NOT an exact match and
does require modifications. I used the Audi strap and
the new ring. It is made by Febi. It is attached to
it's own strap by 7 spot welds and 2 tack welds on
both ends. I ground off the tack welds and drilled
out the spot welds. The pieces will seperate pretty
easily, but the Febi ring is a lighter gauge steel and
will bend pretty easily. My welder did a great job
joining them without melting the rubber. The u-joint
is also available from AEC Products in Defiance, Ohio.
They have a web site. Rod at the Parts Connection
has the end CV's if you need them. My u-joint and
CV's were in great shape. If the shaft is aligned
properly and greased, there is almost no stress on
this thing. If you are careful, you can remove the
u-joint without damaging it. The AEC bearing is p/n
1677. 26mm cap dia. and 70mm cross. Center grease
fitting. Save yourself some money and buy a good
quality sealed ball bearing sized 30mm x 55 mm x 13mm.
I took some video of this sh*t, if anyone can make
pics out of VHS, let me know.
More thoughts...
It has been on my car for about 1500-2000 miles now.
No problems so far. My original u-joint is still in
the car. It was VERY clean. It disassembled it and
solvent washed the whole bit, then reassembled with
Mobil syn. grease. My front and rear driveshaft CV's
were also in excellent condition. New CV grease from
some of the 15 Lobro kits I've accumulated. The seals
here are rubber and only need to be cleaned and
reglued. I used contact cement. IMPORTANT!! Make
sure you index mark the CV's to the drive flanges
front and rear! The flanges were very hard and I
didn't get a "good" pin punch mark. I had to rotate
the CV on the flange 3 times to stop the minor
vibration this caused. Not such a big deal, just 3
more trips under the car than I wanted.
HTH
Jim Accordino
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