Type 44 CC

[james accordino]

--- larry leung <l.leung at juno.com> wrote:
> Todd,
> 
> Could be the brush on the other side has failed, or,
> as noted earlier, the motor has binding. If a harder
> push doesn't work, don't risk an electrical fire.
> Leave the CC control in the off position, or unplug
> the motor.
> 
> As for replacement, it looks like motors run a
> little bit more than $100, I paid $120 from Mountain
> Motors in CO a couple of years ago. It took me about
> 4 hours to replace the motor, no steak knife
> required. I followed the posts in the archives.
> Final note, you will have to pull harder on the
> heater box than you think you should or it should be
> able to handle. It's that or take apart the dash or
> console (no BTDT) to cut away the sealant of the box
> to the interior plenum. 
> 
I also was surprised by how tightly the box was glued
to the firewall.  I swore it would break judging by
how hard I had to pull/pry on it.  I used a residental
application closed cell foam weatherstrip, glued to
the box with the joint at the top of the box.  Seals
well and allows easy removal.  An adequate rebuild
costs about $8. if you do the work.  I haven't found
the correct sized brushes, but they are very easy to
size using some sandpaper or a power sander or
grinder.  I got some fan motors at the U-PULL-IT for
real cheap before my first one went toast.  I look for
a clean copper thing that the brushes ride on
(commutator?).  If this is all chewed up, don't
bother.  The bearing costs $4-6 depending on origin. 
The brushes were $2. or less.  A little soldering and
a little fiddling and it's done.  Getting the plastic
fan off is real easy with a shop press.  Don't know
about getting it off any other way.  If you have never
replaced your heater core and have high mileage/age, I
would seriously think about replacing it.  I think I
paid less than $40. for the OEM core.  Definitely less
than $50.  Considering the amount of work involved in
removing this mess, it was well worth it to me.

Jim Accordino