: 90 20V Quattro Questions

[Jukka Majanen]

Hi

Mihnea wrote:

>My opinion about this is that you should try to do as much as possible as 
>you can with the 20V NA engine, as it's pretty reliable, and doesn't have 
>the same problems as the 10V Turbo with higher turbo pressures and stuff 
>like that.

Hmmm. You have owned a 20V or 10VT, or just been reading of them? 
I Have had both of of the engines and was wondering what are the10vT 
Probs that 20V doesnn´t have. 20v has same throttle switch, knock sensor
and temperature sender problems that 10 VT has. That is just it?
In my ( a little experienced ) opinion 10 VT is more reliable than 20V.

>In France, there is a workshop doing developments for rally cars, but also 
>fopr street cars, and they do have a chip for both the 10V and the 20V, 2.3 
>NA engine. Their power claims are 150 HP for the 10V and 200HP for the 20V. 

Yeah, claims...

210 HP on the dyno, and the maw speed is around 154 mph (his car is an 
european 4k, so it is a 90, non-quattro).

Sure no problem for an N/A, just to believe :))) I had on my ´91 20V 2.3
coupe quattro K&N, a chip, cat back mods and the fastest ( black ) colour,
but it did not go (as my pals 20Vs) just better than others 100 kw 10V cars...

I know all f...ng aftermarket people will attack against me after this, but true is:
All chips, special intakes, or exhaust modifications are bullshit on these N/A 
engines, if You don´t chance the cams and heavily port the head. And that is 
big $$$...(I´ve never been racing with the cars, but lots with the 4-stroke bikes)

j-pm
Regards from the Northern Europe

BTW
20V N/A 7A and NM engines were one of the biggest disappointments in all
VAG-history. That engine works well only at high speeds, but not well even there.
First under 3k there is nothing, and after 3k....... there is still nothing. Just after
5-6k it pulls a little, but then it is time to switch...