Clutch slave cylinder -- how to get the little bugger out ?

[Roa, Greg]

One of the things that you might do, which helped when I was replacing the
slave cylinder on my 4kq, is to have a helper pump the clutch pedal while
you are wiggling the slave cylinder.  I don't know if you will be able to do
this, as you said you replaced the master already, and you broke the bleeder
screw, but if you can, it's worth a shot.  It puts more pressure on the
slave, as it is trying to disengage the clutch.  Gave me the tiny bit more
push that I needed to get the slave out.
Make sure you put a light coating of grease on the surface of the new one
before you put it in.  It makes it a lot easier if you have to remove it
again.  To do a clutch for example...

Greg Roa
Cincinnati, Oh
86' 4kcsq
93' 90 CS
83' 944

>Hi gang:
>
>I posted last week about how to remove the clutch
>master and slave cylinder on a Coupe GT and got a few
>suggestions and hints.
>
>This weekend I set out to remove the parts. The clutch
>master cylinder was easy and only took 1/2 hour. But
>for the slave cylinder I ran into the problems.
>
>I removed the retaining pin (clip) for the slave
>cylinder as recommended by a lister. That was easy too
>and took only five mintues with the right drift. But
>the slave will not budge out its hole in the bell
>housing. I made a long drift out of socket extensions
>and really banged on the thing to push towards the
>rear of the car. I even broke the bleeder screw. But
>it wont budge. Any tips on how to get this thing out
>??
>
>I searched the archives and found a procedure for a 
>20vt. It stated that after removal of the retaining
>screw or bolt (same as my pin) there should be
>"lateral movement."  I have no movement in mine. It
>appears really stuck in there.
>
>Thanks for any replies
>
> - ed