Stock 200Q vs. Acura CL 3.2 Type "S"

[Larry C Leung]

Thanks. I was looking for broken traces and soon found that to be
daunting. Would you recommend an experienced CB worker for this, as my
experience at board soldering is limited? I think I can be careful BUT, I
don't have a programable iron, just a simple Weller Pencil iron. I am
mostly used to soldering discrete components and wires rather than board
components. And I haven't done too much of that either, as I was an
engineer, not a prototyper.  I am somewhat heartened that it's at least a
printed hard board, unlike the flex board that resides behind my A2 GTi's
IC. Since my problem is still present and I apparently either loosened or
broke a filament in one of those durn bulbs, I guess it's time to replace
them. I can't see the speedo's left side (the slow side!) in the dark.  I
realize that this has already been asked, but does anyone have an
alternative source or  P/N for the IC bulbs for the 100/200 dash?

TIA!

LL - NY

On Tue, 15 May 2001 14:03:56 -0700 (PDT) Orin Eman <orin at WOLFENET.com>
writes:
>> As for the other Audi content, tried fixing intermittent possible 
>ground
>> faults in my dash display, used DeOxit (US cheaper version of 
>Stabilant I
>> think) some problems seem better (clock seems to be solid now, and 
>so far
>> no hieroglyphics from the display), but the weird ABS problem still 
>works
>> only with the parking or headlights on and never when in reverse 
>(which
>> are no longer working) problem remains, didn't have time to try
>> resoldering, but saw no broken traces. In addition, Audi decided to 
>put
>> some form of conformal coating on the PCB making it impossible to 
>probe
>> with standard meter probes. Any ideas, or anyone know of a good PCB
>> repair person in the Rockland Cty area of NY?
>
>It's not usually broken traces on the 200 instrument panels, but bad
>joints on the connectors.  I've 'fixed' several, usually with help.
>We take all the circuit boards out and I resolder _every_ connector.
>Also, there are little sockets that the speedo and tach plug into
>which you may miss... we resolder these too.  The bouncing speedo
>problem is when one of these cracks... and you aren't likely to be
>able to see the crack.
>
>It's a good, but expensive idea to replace all the bulbs while you 
>have
>an instrument panel out!
>
>Orin.
>