Desparate for 5kt elec HELP!!

[DGraber460 at aol.com]

In a message dated 5/27/2001 7:33:02 PM Mountain Daylight Time, ti at amb.org 
writes:


> It is not likely that both motors went out at the same time.  Also, just
> "having power" at the switch is no indication that the contacts within
> the switch are making good connection when pressed.
> 
> The window switch lights stay on whenever the windows are still operable
> (the "retained power" feature allows the windows to continue to operate
> after the ignition is turned off and key removed, until the driver's
> door is opened).  What wiring did you check?  Did you check the wiring
> inside the doorjamb boots for breaks?  Which switches did you swap when
> you tested?  Be aware that for all the windows that have two switches
> (all except the driver's door), *both* switches must make good contact
> in order for the window to work.  Also, did you check the rear lockout
> switch?  If that's bad it would cause the rear window(s) to not work.
> The only other things to check are the circuit breakers and the power
> window/sunroof control relay itself.
> 

The wiring I checked was the 12v lead at the door switch, and the driver 
console. 12 volts (and ground) at all locations. The switches were from 
functioning locations.
The door jam wires are passing power (measured with multimeter) at the 2 12v 
connections for each window connector at all locations.
If the motors are bad I will be buying 3 regulators, as I have another car 
needing a replacement also. The cables and pulleys on it are bad. I've have 
tried to repair one from the CGT, but had no luck with the cable.
These things make team door handle look like geniuses.

Dennis   
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