R-12 to R-134

[james accordino]

--- "Clint F." <stungun68 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 1. receiver/dryer (don't remove the caps until ready
> to assemble and vacuum 
> the system)
> 2. all o-rings at connections you have apart
> replaced with green nitrile 
> rings
> 3. flush as much oil out as you can, it won't
> dissolve in the 134, and pool 
> up in your system.
> 4. 30in" of vacuum for an hour(the longer you can
> pull the vac., the better 
> it seems to go)
> 5. schrader valves
> 6. new 134 fittings
> 7. PAG or ester oil for the 134
> 8. close to 80% charge of 134 of what your car calls
> for using r12
> 9. possibly, new pressure switches
> 
> Sure, you can buy the fittings and a can of 134, or
> some "universal" 
> refrigerant at your local "parts4cheap" store and
> shoot it in, but save your 
> X-mas money for a new compressor next year.
> 
> 134 isn't as efficient as r12, especially in a car
> made for r12, but you 
> probably won't know the difference.  The sight glass
> is useless for charging 
> with 134, the bubbles will never stop. Also, 134
> runs at higher 
> temperatures/pressures, so if you have a weak link
> in your system(ie 
> compressor, hoses) you will know about it.
> parts will last just as 
> long, and it will keep you nice and cool in the
> middle of July.

I absolutely agree.  I've done 4 now and the first
time was the cheap kit.  Waste of time and money. 
Clean it out, change the o-rings,etc.  If you live in
the salt zones, don't be surprised if the condensor
turns out to be 1 of the "weak links".  BTDT.  This
CAN work very well and it cools well.  Just don't be
surprised if some things leak or spring leaks, esp. in
a 10 or more yr. old vehicle with high mileage.

Jim Accordino