4kq clutch slave bleed

[Jpinkowish at aol.com]

Steve, et. al.,
Below is the method, originally posted by Avram Dorfman, that I used to bleed
the new clutch slave that I installed.  Method worked like an absolute champ,
and doesn't require pressure bleeding.

I would recommend the following modifications:
--prefill the slave before connecting it to the "hard" hydraulic line
--gravity bleed the system before connecting the slave.

Jan Pinkowish
'85 4ksq Bristol, CT

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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 00:26:52 -0400
From: "Avram Dorfman" <dorfman at est.org>
Subject: Re: '88 90Q Clutch Bleeding

<SNIP>
We did come up with a way to bleed the system without a pressure bleeder,
which seems to have worked fine. The traditional "open the valve, step on
the clutch, close the valve & repeat" procedure didn't get us anywhere. )We
were told that it would work, but would take about 100 repetitions. Well, it
didn't. Here's what we did (read disclaimer below):

1) remove the slave cylinder
    (1 bolt, but hard to get to, especially if you don't know what you're
    looking for. Don't disconnect the fluild line, just let the cylindar
hang)
2) open the bleeder valve
3) depress the slave cylinder's actuating rod ("piston"?)
    (Press the entire cylinder against the car's frame - it has a strong
spring)
4) close the bleeder
5) release the piston
    This is the magic step - that big spring "sucks" more fluid into
    the system from the reservoir, with all the power of a sealed system
6) repeat from #2 until 100% fluid (no bubbles) comes out
7) reinstall the slave cylindar
    (This is difficult b/c you have to depress the actuator rod by jamming
it against the clutch lever *while* you're shoving the cylinder back into
position at that odd angle where you can't really see anything, and you have
to get the bolt in and at least a little threaded, before you can let go)

Important note: DO NOT step on the clutch peddal while the slave cylindar is
out. You'll blow the slave cylindar wide open. Trust me on this one.
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