Changing timing belt and noisy hydraulics

[Ken Keith]

ccohen5" <ccohen5 at compuserve.com> wrote:
>
> Many thanks - I agree on all points. One question thoough.  Not having seen
> how the timing belt fits on my car, but the use of the 2079/2084 tool combo
> makes me conclude that the lower crank pulley has to come off.  Why is this
> necessary?

The belt is "encased" by a ridge in the block, and by the crank pulley.
There is no way to slip it off unless you cut the old belt off.  If you did
that, then you'd still have to remove the pulley to put the new one on.

There is only enough of a gap between the protrusion at the bottom of
the block and the pulley that they do not touch.  The space is smaller
than the thickness of the belt.

> The Bentley seems to show that the belt (admittedly for the
> Urq) is long enough to require the water pump pully to be used as the
> tensioner. I can understand using 2084 to make sure that the cam and crank
> pulleys do not vary from TDC if one does not use the screwdriver trick, but
> why would one have to retorque the retainer bolt unless the oil pump was
> being removed for check or replacement?   <snip>

Screwdriver "trick" is right.  Are you referring to the idea that you should
be able to hold the cam in place using a screwdriver in the pulley teeth
while you undo the bolt?  That seems impossible to me.

The only way I was able to break the cam bolt free was with the belt
holding it in place. Even then, I think it's possible to skip teeth this way.
You can put a big wrench on the cam to hold it still.

You don't have to mess with the cam gear to do the t-belt, although for
me it seemed easier to replace the gear with the belt on it, rather than
put the belt on the affixed gear.  This runs the risk of displacing the key
which you have to watch for, which I did at least once.

Ken