Subject: Re: 2.2 - 2.6 conversion

[ScottyCBoy at aol.com]

Great to hear you got your engine in! My 2.5 liter is running strong in the 4000QT.

Scott

In a message dated Fri, 30 Nov 2001  1:48:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, "mlp" <mlped at qwest.net> writes:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Pederson [mailto:mlped at concentric.net]
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 8:45 AM
>
> The engine is done.  It sits ignored and forlornly in the car,
> in front of its new (to it) 6 speed tranny, and waits for other things
> to happen.
>
> - Block (I'm using the original AAN 2.2 liter bored out to 82mm),
> crankshaft, rods, bearings, camshafts, pistons, head & every thing
> else in there, along with the brake rotors cryo'd (supposedly) by 300
> Below;
>
> - Carrillo "turbo" or "specialized" connecting rods (these are very,
> very light.  It's been suggested maybe too light?  Carrillo OTOH, says
> "No worries mate.";
>
> - JE Pistons, the pin has been move "up" in the piston @ 4 - 5 mm &
> the piston rather deeply dished (at least by comparison to a stock
> AAN) to keep the CR below 9:1;  The pistons have been (a) thermally
> coated (the tops with Swains "Gold Coat"); and (b) side "slippery"
> coated.
>
> -  Someone's, I'm not sure if Carrillo supplied them, or JE or ?the
> international man of mystery, special wrist pins - also very light by
> comparison to the stock pin.
>
> - Camshafts were also "slippery coated"
>
> - Valve faces have been "thermally coated" (this is a whitish finish)
> nd the stems slippery treated to Swain's "slippery" coating.  The
> slippery stem treatment, at Swains "recommendation" according to the
> machine shop screws up the valve guide clearance enough (this is
> denied by Swain) so that all, or at least every visible portion of the
> coating had to be buffed off.
>
> -  The head combustion chambers and intake/exhaust runners have also
> been treated to Swains thermal barrier process.
>
> - A special tubular exhaust manifold.  Swain Tech coated to keep the
> heat of combustion in the exhaust, & out of the engine compartment;
>
> - Stock extruded honed intake manifold, Swain Coated (thermally
> "buffered to keep heat out);
>
> - Head to Block ARP "studs" vs. the OEM bolts;
>
> - Something larger than stock - don't want to say how large for sure
> or I'll have a mad Hawaiian, or Texan on my hands, "semi" ball bearing
> turbocharger, that's been variously accused of, or described as "The
> spawn of a drunk date between a Cummings Turbo diesel and slyphish
> German Lufthansa stewardess..... or was that steward?"  Pooh-poohed as
> "Oh yeah, you can get one of those at any West Virginia (or Alabama or
> Ozark) truck stop."
>
> The only part we elected to use out of the Eurovan block was the
> crankshaft, but you can do it the other way, or so I am told.  The
> major stumbling blocks that I know of by "word of mouth," i.e. no BTDT
> experience, in going the other way (see German Steward vs. Diesel
> Cummings turbo, above) are:
>
> - You need to machine & fit piston oil squirters (that is if your
> application is going to be one of the turbocharged heads) to the
> Eurovan block.  I'm told it can, and in fact has been done by
> ScottBoy, but his machinist apparently had to buy some specialized
> tooling to do it, so it may not be something every shop  either can,
> or would be willing to try.
>
> - I believe you also have to do something to the back of the block to
> add a hot water fitting for ?? the Audi heater or heater return line.
> This I think is supposed to be relatively simple.
>
> -  I don't know about a 20v head direct bolt up to the Eurovan.  We
> looked at it, and I was told it "looked" very doable, but the only
> Eurovan Block / Audi head mating I know of I am pretty sure uses an
> Audi 10V head.
>
> - You'll have to solve the timing belt problem - i.e. the Eurovan
> block is @ 8 to 10mm at least "taller" than the Audi AAN & its ilk, so
> your timing belt has to cover that additional 1" or so of travel that
> is going to occur between the cam drive gear in the head, and the
> crankshaft pulley.
>
> - On the plus side, you MAY not have to muck about with doing special
> pistons with the pin relocation.
>
> Let me know how you come along with your project.  What chassis were
> you going to put your engine in again?
>
> mlp
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Marc Thomas
> > > Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 11:55 PM
> > > To: mpederson at bigfoot.com
> > > Subject: Re: 2.2 - 2.6 conversion
> > >
> > >
> > > Mike,
> > > Have you finished this engine yet?  I just bought a 2.5
> > > eurovan long block
> > > and plan to use it....what have you done?
> > >
> > > Marc
> > > 84 non running urq