4KQ clutch slave cylinder replacement tips...

[Kneale Brownson]

It's probably a metric sized rollpin.  There are drivers designed 
specifically for extracting rollpins (also called spring pins)  that have a 
little round ball on the end that fits into the hollow center of these 
fasteners and have a shaft slightly smaller than the OD of the pin when 
it's compressed so that it won't score up the hole or tube the pin goes 
into.  They're called pilot punches, but they're a bit pricey.    You also 
can find standard drive pin punches with the round nipple for keeping the 
punch centered in the rollpin.  Given the circumstances involved in slave 
cylinder removal, I'd guess the self-centering punch would be helpful.   I 
have no BTDT on the Audi slave cylinder, but I routinely take out roll pins 
in other settings, and with my poor eye-hand coordination, I find the 
piloted type of punches helpful.


At 01:51 PM 10/24/2001 -0700, ed armstrong wrote:

>Hi,
>As Dennis mentions, the critical part is to drive out
>the thin "expansion pin", what I would call a roll pin
>that secures the clutch slave cylinder to the top of
>the transmission housing. The right sized drift is
>critical. I believe it is 3/16" . If you are 1/16" to
>big or small, it will not work...trust me, I bought
>and tried several different sized drifts.
>
>I was able to bang out the roll pin towards the the
>passenger side of the car. There is just enough room
>to swing a hammer in there, although is would have
>been much easier if I had removed the driver side tie
>rod. I did not and got the pin removed. Others have
>reported working through the passenger side wheel well
>and banging towards the driver side.
>
>Once the pin is out, the cylinder may or may not come
>out easily. You will need to find a long solid drift
>or solid piece of wood and drive the clutch cylinder
>towards the rear of the car. Mine was "stuck" and I
>had to actually apply heat to the top of the trans
>housing with a blow torch. Took a long time to heat up
>top of the trans housing to loosen things up. A few
>cycles of heat and banging and it was out.
>
>This work done on a 85 Coupe with LHD. Work on a 4000Q
>will be similar.
>
>
>  -ed
>
>
>
>--- DGraber460 at aol.com wrote:
> > The first step is to check with your therapist to
> > see if you have the mental
> > stability required for this project. It is probably
> > one of the most
> > frustrating jobs on the car.
> >
> > There are several methods for doing this. Some
> > report working from
> > underneath, but I can't see how. I did it from both
> > the passenger side wheel
> > well, and driver side top.
> > The cylinder is held in by a small expansion pin
> > that needs to driven out
> > (either side) with an appropriately sized drift.
> > The proper size is
> > critical, and no I don't have the size in front of
> > me but can check if
> > needed. If the PO didn't delete it, there is also a
> > spring clip/wire that
> > needs to be pulled out first. Both mine came out so
> > easily, I couldn't see
> > how it secured the pin with any certainty.
> > Other than those facts, it is merely a matter of
> > doing the best you can with
> > your particular size of arms and hands to gain
> > access to the exceedingly
> > poorly placed slave. What works for some, doesn't
> > seem to work for all.
> > I have done this twice, and got pretty scratched up
> > both times.
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Dennis
> >
>
>
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