CGT: Rebuild or Swap?

[Dave Glubrecht]

It has been my experiance that once a rod gets to the audiable point (you
hear rod knock) then you will almost always need to resurface the crank and
should have the rod machined (probably not necessary).
  Changing a rod bearing is cheap and easy, and probably worth a try, but
not a reliable repair.
You have to buy a set, at least for a Vw (four pairs) and once the pan is
off, just pull caps untill you find one that is copper colored instead of
gray.  If you find one of the rod caps darker (or even black) then you might
consider the swap.
    Dave G



----- Original Message -----
From: "Huw Powell" <human747 at attbi.com>
To: "ian Butler" <ian at hplx.net>
Cc: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: CGT: Rebuild or Swap?


>
> > Though I've moved on to another daily driver, the fact remains that I
have
> > two Coupes (one for parts) sitting in the parking lot.
> >
> > So!  The parts car has what's proven to be a pretty reliable engine;
unknown
> > mileage (but probably pushing 300K) and no terrible noises except for a
> > faint lifter tick (or is that the brake vac pump rod?).  Served reliably
> > with decent power for many thousands of miles; the car could go 112,
which
> > is just 3mph under a CGT's rated top speed.
> >
> > The "good" car has a bad engine, though, some sort of terrible clunking
> > noise which a mechanic said was a bad rod.  The only information about
rod
> > knock I've been able to find indicates the bearings just need to be
> > replaced, assuming the crankshaft hasn't been royally fudged.
> >
> > Now, bearing in mind that I have limited cash and very limited tools, is
a
> > rod bearing replacement going to be inexpensive or effective assuming I
can
> > track down someone to help me with it?  Or should I just stick to my
> > sockets, bite the bullet, and pull the parts engine?
>
> As much of a pain that replacing that rod bearing would be, swapping
> engines will make it look like child's play, unless you have a very
> enthusiastic friend with an engine hoist and a weekend or two to kill.
>
> The bearing is only so-so bad, helps if you can identify which one it
> is.  Drain oil, drop pan (need new gasket), maybe remove oil pickup for
> easier access (needs new gasket), undo rod bolts, separate, remove old
> bearing, clean up, lube surfaces with build-lube, reassemble.  You could
> do all the rods, to be sure, I suppose.
>
> My old 5kt had this problem once, years ago.  Friend at a local shop did
> it for me, somehow he knew which bearing ot replace because he only did
> one.  Fixed it good.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>