BIG SHORT, dead 4kq
Bernard Littau
bernardl at acumenassociates.com
Mon Apr 8 22:04:04 EDT 2002
Hi Luis,
Where in the world are you?
It sure sounds like your battery is discharged. I would start by finding a
way to charge the battery.
The least expensive of these would be fine:
http://www.automotive-battery-chargers.com/portable.html
You don't need a fancy trickle charger. If you need to buy something, get a
brute force 6 to 20 Amp charger. You are way more likely to need something
that can charge the battery in a hurry than something that is safe to leave
on the battery for a month. Don't worry about the 6V capability, everything
you have will be 12V.
I've seen multimeters for as little as $5 at Harbor Freight. Check out Radio
Shack, I think they have a very inexpensive analog multimeter, too. I am
sure these things are cheap, but should suffice for basic car diagnostics.
You sure don't need a $100 multimeter for basic 12V trouble-shooting.
Once the battery is charged, you can try and do some further diagnosis. It
is possible that the regulator was indeed defective -- the new regulator
won't help you until the car is running. Once the car is running -- once it
starts :-) -- you should measure the voltage at the battery posts. Your
gauge in the console should also be adequate for voltage measurement in this
case, although a multimeter is more versatile in detecting problems.
Charge the battery, get the car running, then see what the console voltage
gauge shows and report back to the list.
Best,
Bernard Littau
Woodinville, WA
> Thanks to Rich and Doug for telling me how to put
> the new voltage regulator in my alternator :-)
>
> Unfortunately, the new regulator didn't help :-(
> the symptoms before:
>
> > turned the key to ON, and the oil light/buzzer
> > came on, instead of the normal warning-lights check;
> > dash-illumination came on normally bright; the LED
> > voltmeter bright and showing 12 V; the stereo
> > normal, too, so I pushed the key further to START,
> > but the motor cranked too slugishly to kick in,
> > and the voltage dropped and everything dimmed.
>
> In addition, now, after 3 weeks and replacing
> voltage regulator, the battery voltage reads
> bottom at the LED voltmeter when first turning the
> key to ON and then very slowly creeps up to 8 V.
> Turning the key further to START, the starter
> solenoid doesn't engage anymore.
>
> (note - the blue alternator wire is in good shape;
> I disconnected the battery after day two.)
>
> Could it still be my alternator? if not, what
> else? I just got my Bentley from the Parts
> Connection, but lack a multimeter or battery
> trickle charger to perform more rigorous
> diagnostics. Any suggestions before I go out and
> buy those? (I have very limited money.) If I
> absolutely must get more diagnostic tools what
> should I buy to get the best value? Also, because
> my car has not ran for so long should I take any
> preventive steps while it's still not running and
> before starting it when I finally get it to run?
>
[snip A/C stuff]
>
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