BIG SHORT, dead 4kq

[Doug Hill]

Luis,
when I did mine i just took the battery to the local checker and had them
test it and recharge for free (guess they thought I would forget about my
warrenty on the Optima I bought and buy a new one if it did not work)
Doug
>
>Where in the world are you?
>
>It sure sounds like your battery is discharged.  I would start by finding a
>way to charge the battery.
>
>The least expensive of these would be fine:
>http://www.automotive-battery-chargers.com/portable.html
>
>You don't need a fancy trickle charger.  If you need to buy something, get
>a
>brute force 6 to 20 Amp charger.  You are way more likely to need something
>that can charge the battery in a hurry than something that is safe to leave
>on the battery for a month.  Don't worry about the 6V capability,
>everything
>you have will be 12V.
>
>I've seen multimeters for as little as $5 at Harbor Freight. Check out
>Radio
>Shack, I think they have a very inexpensive analog multimeter, too.  I am
>sure these things are cheap, but should suffice for basic car diagnostics.
>You sure don't need a $100 multimeter for basic 12V trouble-shooting.
>
>Once the battery is charged, you can try and do some further diagnosis.  It
>is possible that the regulator was indeed defective -- the new regulator
>won't help you until the car is running.  Once the car is running -- once
>it
>starts :-) -- you should measure the voltage at the battery posts.  Your
>gauge in the console should also be adequate for voltage measurement in
>this
>case, although a multimeter is more versatile in detecting problems.
>
>Charge the battery, get the car running, then see what the console voltage
>gauge shows and report back to the list.
>
>Best,
>
>Bernard Littau
>Woodinville, WA
>
>
>
> > Thanks to Rich and Doug for telling me how to put
> > the new voltage regulator in my alternator :-)
> >
> > Unfortunately, the new regulator didn't help :-(
> > the symptoms before:
> >
> > > turned the key to ON, and the oil light/buzzer
> > > came on, instead of the normal warning-lights check;
> > > dash-illumination came on normally bright; the LED
> > > voltmeter bright and showing 12 V; the stereo
> > > normal, too, so I pushed the key further to START,
> > > but the motor cranked too slugishly to kick in,
> > > and the voltage dropped and everything dimmed.
> >
> > In addition, now, after 3 weeks and replacing
> > voltage regulator, the battery voltage reads
> > bottom at the LED voltmeter when first turning the
> > key to ON and then very slowly creeps up to 8 V.
> > Turning the key further to START, the starter
> > solenoid doesn't engage anymore.
> >
> > (note - the blue alternator wire is in good shape;
> > I disconnected the battery after day two.)
> >
> > Could it still be my alternator? if not, what
> > else? I just got my Bentley from the Parts
> > Connection, but lack a multimeter or battery
> > trickle charger to perform more rigorous
> > diagnostics. Any suggestions before I go out and
> > buy those? (I have very limited money.) If I
> > absolutely must get more diagnostic tools what
> > should I buy to get the best value? Also, because
> > my car has not ran for so long should I take any
> > preventive steps while it's still not running and
> > before starting it when I finally get it to run?
> >
>[snip A/C stuff]
> >
>




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