Front Oil Seal Replacement
Jon Boyer
jonboyer at hotmail.com
Thu Apr 18 14:09:49 EDT 2002
Pulling seals with drywall screws sounds a bit risky. I short screwdriver
with a very dull balde (just in case) has served me well for years. I use
large sockets to push them back in. I have never used or felt the need for
the special tools. Never had a 1.8T apart, but my guess is that the pulleys
will come right off after removing the bolt.
If you are going to drop the pan, why not do it at the same time? There is
also an aluminum piece bolted on the front of the block that holds the crank
front seal. That thing has a gasket, and the oil pan has to seal to it too.
If nothing else, check the bolts that hold it on for correct tension.
JB
>From: rocketscienceracing at attbi.com
>To: quattro at audifans.com, a4 at audifans.com
>Subject: Front Oil Seal Replacement
>Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:15:38 +0000
>
>I'm getting ready to do the timing belt on my 98 A4
>1.8Tq. I've bought every part under the sun to put in
>there besides the belt, including new oil seals for the
>camshaft and crankshaft.
>
>Anyone BTDT on oil seal replacement without special
>tools? I know I can probably pull the old ones by
>driving a few sheetrock screws into them and pulling.
>What's the best way to tap the new seals back into the
>block (short of getting the special tool :-). Anyone got
>an oil seal driver I can borrow for a day or so (I'm
>located in Southern NH)?
>
>Any hints/tips for getting the crank and cam pulleys off?
>
>Damn thing leaks oil like a sieve. Dropping the oil pan
>will probably be next after this.
>
>Thanks!
>
>st
> > Send quattro mailing list submissions to
> > quattro at audifans.com
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > quattro-request at audifans.com
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > quattro-admin at audifans.com
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of quattro digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. fuel pump interchangeability (Nicholas Lawrence)
> > 2. engine weights (Mark Smith)
> > 3. I love my Valentine (Lee Levitt)
> > 4. junkyard engine search (gjkscruggs)
> > 5. Re:engine weights (Alexander van Gerbig)
> > 6. sloppy shifter 90 200tqa Thanks (Ron Wainwright)
> > 7. Knock Sensor Question (Dan Dwyer)
> > 8. electrical charging problem-Who done it?-We have a winner
> > (Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com)
> > 9. 2000 A6 Sedan - Base Carrier bars & Sport/Luggage Box (Ralph
>Rocco)
> > 10. re:headlight harness.. (jim rose)
> > 11. audi Foam Cushions (ScottyCBoy at aol.com)
> > 12. a/c compressor interchangability? (Richard J. Andrews)
> > 13. eurolight harness for a 4kq (Richard J. Andrews)
> > 14. RE:87 Coupe Q Parking brake not working (Piirainen Antti)
> > 15. Re:'91 Avant no-start (Roger Mounsey)
> > 16. A good tool (C1J1Miller)
> > 17. RE:system pressure leakdown (Jon Boyer)
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 1
> > From: "Nicholas Lawrence" <nick at beol.net>
> > To: "Audi (E-mail)" <quattro at audifans.com>
> > Subject: fuel pump interchangeability
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:28:47 -0500
> >
> > With all this noise about fuel pumps recently does any one know if a
>fuel
> > pump from an '85 5k will interchange into a '91 100. TIA
> > Nick
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:39:05 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Mark Smith <audi90cq at yahoo.com>
> > Subject: engine weights
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> >
> > Can anyone tell me the weights of the 20v vs V8 4.2l?
> > Can the V8 be bolted to the CQ transmission or would
> > that need to be changed if doing a swap?
> > I'm just toying with the idea of a S2 conversion but
> > would like to reduce the weight and increase the HP
> > without adding all the intercooler plumbing etc.
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Mark
> > 90 Coupe Quattro
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> > http://taxes.yahoo.com/
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Reply-To: <lee at wheelman.com>
> > From: "Lee Levitt" <lee at wheelman.com>
> > To: "Qlist" <quattro at audifans.com>, <s-car-list at yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: I love my Valentine
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:42:26 -0400
> >
> >
> > I was driving down a side street earlier today when my Valentine went
>off...
> > I saw one of those automated speed management things (You're going XX
>MPH)
> > and rather than ignoring the warning, I glanced over at the Valentine
> > readout.
> >
> > 2 sources, both ahead.
> >
> > So I slow down to the speed limit (on a road that pretty much requires
>10-15
> > over, particularly as it involves a beautiful approach to a roundabout
>that
> > acts as a nice chicane).
> >
> > I crest a small rise, and what do I see in front of me, but an unmarked
> > police car sitting on the side of the road...the source of the second
>radar
> > signal.
> >
> > If I had been running any other radar detector, I probably would have
> > crested that rise at 15 over.
> >
> > I love my Valentine.
> >
> > Lee
> > '95.5 S6 avant
> > '96 A6 quattro avant
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:49:09 -0400
> > From: gjkscruggs <gjkscruggs at comcast.net>
> > Subject: junkyard engine search
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> >
> > I think this is the site you're looking for.
> >
> > http://car-part.com/
> >
> > Regards, Gross Scruggs
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Reply-To: "Alexander van Gerbig" <Audi_80 at msn.com>
> > From: "Alexander van Gerbig" <Audi_80 at email.msn.com>
> > To: "Mark Smith" <audi90cq at yahoo.com>, <quattro at audifans.com>
> > Subject: Re: engine weights
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:57:31 -0400
> >
> > Well the V8 quest is one I may still be on myself. I talked to mum
> > today and she told me she pumped almost $4500 into the totaled 200q20v,
>just
> > the mechanicals, yikes! So with the rest of that insurance money, some
> > $3500, it has to be untotaled somehow. Either way she says it's running
> > beautifully again and everything that was wrong with it has been fixed,
> > suspension, boost problems, and all that, though I haven't seen the shop
> > invoice yet. I think we can get away with doing the body work with that
> > insurance cash and then we'll have the beautiful 200q20v back and better
> > than before. So no 20v turbo for me now...
> >
> > I toyed around with a webpage for the V8 conversion, not finished, but
>some
> > good guidelines...
> >
> > http://www.uvm.edu/~avangerb/Audi/V8swap.html
> >
> > That has some info about the swap, but as for weight all I know is the
>V8
> > comes in just shy of the 20vt, saw the stats on a German site and can't
> > remember the URL.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alexander van Gerbig
> > '91 200q20v (Crunched)
> > '90 90q20v (Sport)
> > '88 80t (R.I.P)
> >
> > The Audi 80 Pages---------
> > http://surf.to/the80pages.com
> >
> > North Ferrisburg, VT 05473
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:58:23 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Ron Wainwright <ron_01056 at yahoo.com>
> > Subject: sloppy shifter 90 200tqa Thanks
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > I'de like to thank everyone who responded to my
> > sloppy shifter It will be fixed on Friday
> > come to find out that the metal ball on top of the
> > shift rod lever was loose it's kinda riveted to the
> > lever I ordered a new one from the dealer (to the tune
> > of $60) will be here on Friday
> > I thought it was the ball socket that attaches to the
> > lever
> >
> > One more thing I'd like to thank Kristian at VM
> > Autohause in Canada he gave me some BTDT on gettin the
> > shift rod out what a headache that was expecially to
> > find out that all I had to take off was the shift
> > lever
> > oh well live and learn.
> > Thanks
> > Ron
> > 90 200tqa 203k IA stage1,1.7 bar
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> > http://taxes.yahoo.com/
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 7
> > From: "Dan Dwyer" <dandwyer at hotmail.com>
> > To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> > Subject: Knock Sensor Question
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:14:26 -0700
> >
> > I've been playing with the boost in my '89 200Q. If I go too high with
>the
> > boost, I get a check engine light above 3800 rpm. When I check the
>error
> > codes, I get an error code 2142. Investigation on SJM's sight gives the
> > following explanation for the error code:
> >
> > 2142
> > Knock sensor #1
> > Open or short circuit, Defective sensor
> > Check sensor and wiring
> > Symptom: Timing retarded, High fuel consumption, power loss, Boost
> > pressure not attained
> >
> > I can drive the car forever and not get the above error code if I have
>stock
> > boost. My question is, if my knock sensor is bad, how come the computer
> > only realizes it above stock boost levels. The higher boost could
>certainly
> > cause knock, but then wouldn't I get the following error code if that
>was
> > the case:?
> >
> > 2141
> > Knock regulator #1
> > Excessive knock, timing is being retarded by maximum amount 7.8
>degrees,
> > Low boost on 20V,
> > Fuel octane too low, Excessive Compression, excessive boost
> >
> > If anybody can help me to understand if I have a problem with engine
>knock
> > or just a faulty sensor I would appreciate it.
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> >
> > Dan
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 8
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:55:22 -0400
> > From: Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com
> > Subject: electrical charging problem-Who done it?-We have a winner
> > To: "quattro list" <quattro at audifans.com>,
> > <James at ringsperformance.com>, Brett Dikeman <brett at cloud9.net>,
> > Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com>, BLEVINSBK at aol.com,
> > auditude at get.net, Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>,
> > "Dave Aukerman" <aukdav at ccsdana.net>,
> > "Beatty; Robert" <BeattyR at ummhc.org>,
> > "Rich Andrews" <tech at flashmail.com>, "Rex Pedersen" <fega at fega.com>
> >
> > See below for the winning reply to my question about what part I changed
>to
> > solve the intermittent electrical problem with my 1989 200q Avant. James
> > Marriott responded showing he had identified the flaw in my
>troubleshooting
> > logic. I realized my mistake when my wife called Monday to tell me the
> > problem had returned. Here in the Southwestern tip of Indiana last
>Monday
> > was humid and above 85 deg F for the first time this year. Due to the
>warm
> > weather, I knew that my 8.5 months pregnant wife was using the air
> > conditioning and I put 2 & 2 together. You may recall that the AC was
>the
> > only accessory we left running for any extent of time the last time we
> > experienced the problem.
> >
> > The culprit: a bad radiator cooling fan.
> >
> > Of course the radiator cooling fan runs constantly when the AC is
>running, and
> > it appears that the bearings in the fan were pretty much gone. It would
>still
> > turn, but I could push on the blade back towards the motor and rock the
>blade
> > tips half of an inch. Somehow this bad fan was pulling enough current to
>get
> > ahead of the alternator without melting the fan wiring or 80 Amp fuse in
>the fan
> > circuit. Maybe I should have used a 60 or 70 Amp fuse. Another several
>days and
> > the fan would likely have seized. I still do not know if the alternator
>should
> > be able to keep up with the electrical requirements of the engine plus a
>bad
> > radiator fan pulling some serious current. I was lucky enough to find a
>radiator
> > fan in the u-pull-it that looked to have been a recent addition to the
>wrecked
> > car prior to joining the salvage yard. Seven blades and all => $14.
> >
> > Thanks for playing,
> >
> > Eric Kissell
> >
> > ______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
> > Subject: Re: electrical charging problem solved - Who done it?
> > Author: <James at ringsperformance.com> at INTERNET
> > Date: 4/16/2002 9:00 PM
> >
> > > I reasoned that the AC compressor should not hinder the
> > > performance of the alternator because it is driven from the crankshaft
> > > with its own pulley.
> >
> > However, Audi was smarter than you (and nearly every other car maker),
>and
> > makes the fan run on "low" any time the climate control is engaged on
>any
> > setting but "econ." Even at 0 deg (compressor won't run anyway), key on
>with
> > the engine off. Sadly, at highway speeds the airflow through the
>condenser
> > is probably plenty for AC operation, but the fan runs anyway (at least a
>DC
> > brush motor draws less current when it is being "helped" like that).
> >
> > cu, James Marriott
> > '84 4kq beater, 217k, for sale (BUY IT!)
> > '87 4kq (alias "late-B2 90q") with rare ersatz NG engine, 184k
> > '89 200q (MC1, ProconTen/no bag, 1.8 blah blah), 142k
> > Boise, ID, USA http://www.webpak.net/~marriott/
> > www.ringsperformance.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 9
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:02:30 -0400
> > From: Ralph Rocco <rrock42 at charter.net>
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> > Subject: 2000 A6 Sedan - Base Carrier bars & Sport/Luggage Box
> >
> > Any feedback would be appreciated on Rack systems for 2000 A6 sedan.
> >
> > Are the Audi roof attachments preferred vs Yakima or Thule ?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ralph
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 10
> > From: "jim rose" <sf5ktq at hotmail.com>
> > To: BenediktRochow at oaktech.com
> > Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> > Subject: re: headlight harness..
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:03:05 -0700
> >
> > G,
> >
> > <<I need to ground the high-watt relayed H4 conversion lights on my
>Caprice
> > wagon, and do not see any place particularly suited to that purpose.>>
> >
> >
> > the metal of the headlights should be a fine place to ground
>them[anything
> > resembling the car's "chassis" =]. term the wires with ringterms, spend
>the
> > xtra time + $$ on good quality connectors [you can get solder+crimp
> > connectors with a heat shrinkable casing on them - nice!] at any better
> > hardware/electronics/atuo parts store. can be tricky to find [dont
>bother
> > with rat shack or autozone] but nice!
> >
> >
> > <<So I'm going to try to put the ring terminals on mounting bolts for
>these
> > lights -the holes in the sheetmetal are alredy there, but what do I need
>to
> > do apart from scraping the paint off the sheetmetal? Will dielectric
> > grease(where does oen buy that?) keep it from rusting? How do I keep the
> > grease from being washed away over time?>>>>
> >
> >
> > just make sure that the mounting bolts hit a nice meaty piece of
>sheetmetal.
> > hit the metal [grounding point] with a wire wheel wherever the ring will
>hit
> > the chassis to remove paint. use a chunky starwasher so it bites well
>and
> > finish up with a shot of rubberized undercoating to seal it off. i
>wouldnt
> > bother with d. grease.
> >
> >
> > <<Are stainless steel washers on both sides of the ring terminal
>appropriate
> > for this?(Should I use one of those little springy-toothed washers
>sometimes
> > seen on ground straps?)>>
> >
> > i would just do a starwasher between chassis and ringterm. think
> > surface/contact area. i'd even try to double up the grounds on both
>lights
> > to the same spot, works nice if youre using a bolt. its always worked
>for
> > me...
> >
> > <<In other words: I'm clueless, help!>>
> >
> > ach, youre 1/2 way there. have at it!
> >
> > jim
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
>http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 11
> > From: ScottyCBoy at aol.com
> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:44:42 EDT
> > Subject: audi Foam Cushions
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> >
> > I tore apart a set of sport seats that I have and am dismayed at the
>cost of
> > new foam cushions. Does anybody know what type of foam that these
>things are
> > made of? A complete set of foams for one seat is going to set me back
>300
> > plus bucks.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Scott
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 12
> > Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 01:19:41 -0500
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> > From: "Richard J. Andrews" <tech at flashmail.com>
> > Subject: a/c compressor interchangability?
> >
> > i've gone through 3 yorks in the past 2 years and had maybe a month and
>a
> > half of functional a/c.
> > i've had it with the yorks, i want to put a compressor of a 90 with the
>2.3
> > on my 4000q.
> > will this bolt to the block the same, i know i need custom hoses but
>that's
> > cheap.
> >
> > just looking at my alternatives here anyone have any BTDT?
> >
> > TIA!
> > rich
> > '86 4kq (with a new a/c system minus good compressor)
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 13
> > Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 01:24:45 -0500
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> > From: "Richard J. Andrews" <tech at flashmail.com>
> > Subject: eurolight harness for a 4kq
> >
> > i plan on making my own, harness, does mercedes use h4 or h1's? i'm
>looking
> > for some good connecters, the local
> > pick and pull has a surplus of bmw, mercedes and volvos, so i will grab
>a
> > bunch of relays and some headlight connectors while there. Now, the next
> > question, anyone know of a good relay box?
> > i want everything nice and neat and would like a watertight box that i
> > could put near the core support or somewhere along those lines.
> >
> > i appreciate any thoughts on this.
> >
> > TIA!
> >
> > rich
> > '86 4kq
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 14
> > From: Piirainen Antti <antti.piirainen at camline.fi>
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> > Cc: 'Duncan Thomson' <duncan at systemcontrols.co.nz>,
> > Iain Atkinson <iain.atkinson at tesco.net>
> > Subject: RE: 87 Coupe Q Parking brake not working
> > Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:21:18 +0300
> >
> > Duncan Thomson wrote:
> >
> > > At 21:39 17/04/2002, Iain Atkinson wrote:
> > >
> > > >Listers,
> > > >
> > > >last night i put a new left rear caliper on my car to try
> > > >and get over the problem that i had with the previous caliper
> > > >(same thing no handbrake on this side). I fitted the caliper,
> > > >bled the line pressed the brake pedal a few times then fitted
> > > >the handbrake cable. Any ideas where i have gone wrong???
> > >
> > > Release the handbrake, and push and release the brake pedal about
> > > 50 million times (I think 50 is recommended..!), this lets it
> > > auto adjust...
> > > I find it tends to tighten up after the first couple of
> > > drives as well...
> > >
> > > I know I thought I'd screwed up the first couple of times...
> >
> > Me too. I replaced both the real calipers three months ago, and after
> > bleeding, there was no parking brake till I pumped the pedal for ages.
>And
> > it still didn't settle well before I had used the brakes with the engine
> > running (ie. servo working) for a few times.
> >
> > Then I just checked the adjustment like it's supposed to be done and
> > adjusted the cable with a racthet, an extension and a deep socket, since
>I
> > didn't feel like disconnecting the prop shaft :).
> >
> > Antti Piirainen (87 CQ)
> > http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewCar&carid=751
> > Software Engineer, Camline Corporation
> > antti.piirainen at camline.fi http://www.camline.fi/
> >
>****************************************************************************
> > This message has been scanned by F-Secure Anti-Virus for Microsoft
>Exchange.
> >
>****************************************************************************
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 15
> > From: roger-mounsey at webtv.net (Roger Mounsey)
> > Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 05:43:02 -0400 (EDT)
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> > Subject: Re: '91 Avant no-start
> >
> > The only problem I've had with my Elantra was like yours. Turned out not
> > to be with the car but the alarm starter disrupter relay. Have one of
> > those? Also check the fuse & relay for starter and the clutch switch if
> > you have. Regards, Roger.
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 16
> > Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 07:14:01 -0400 (EDT)
> > From: C1J1Miller <C1J1Miller at aol.com>
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> > Subject: A good tool
> >
> > --
> > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
> > ------------------ Virus Warning Message (on www.audifans.com)
> >
> > Found virus WORM_KLEZ.E in file Ewpkm.pif
> > The uncleanable file Ewpkm.pif is moved to
>/etc/iscan/virus/virESAoRVvY_.
> >
> > ---------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 17
> > From: "Jon Boyer" <jonboyer at hotmail.com>
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> > Subject: RE: system pressure leakdown
> > Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:18:18 -0400
> >
> > Still sounds like the WR regulator is not working correctly. The lack
>of
> > power is probably a lean engine (danger). Try the swap and see what
> > difference that makes.
> >
> > best of luck!
> >
> > JB
> >
> >
> > >From: Ben Swann <bswann at worldnet.att.net>
> > >Reply-To: "bswann at worldnet.att.net" <bswann at worldnet.att.net>
> > >To: 'Ben Swann' <bswann at worldnet.att.net>, 'Graham Thackrah'
> > ><gthack at geog.ucl.ac.uk>, 'Jon Boyer' <jonboyer at hotmail.com>
> > >CC: "'quattro at audifans.com'" <quattro at audifans.com>,
> > >"'quattro at isham-research.com'" <quattro at isham-research.com>
> > >Subject: RE: system pressure leakdown
> > >Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 20:13:41 -0400
> > >
> > >I disassembled the Warmup/Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) and cleaned the
> > >metal diaphram - it really didn't look bad. Back together, made maybe
>a
> > >little difference.
> > >
> > >Part of the problem that crept into the works was actually my guage set
> > >misbehaving. That must have happened right about the time I put new
> > >o-rings in the check valve. Anyway, swapped check valves between the
>two
> > >avants with no difference in either car, so I rule that out. Pulled
>the
> > >guages out, and was able to get the car to idle fine when adjusted
>slightly
> > >rich, such that the frequency valve is not activating at idle. So the
> > >guages were messing me up, causing me to think I did something wrong
>when I
> > >replaced the o-rings in the check valve.
> > >
> > >Now, however, it seems to fall flat around 4000-5000 RPM - was pulling
> > >easily to 6500 the other day, just started and idled poorly.
> > >
> > >So the problems I still have are:
> > >1) Poor starting cold and even after setting 10 min.
> > >2) Loss of power as if mixture is off. Sometimes it pulls great, and
> > >sometime it doesn't.
> > >
> > >I am still pretty sure the problem is in the fuel delivery. I guess I
>need
> > >some new guages, and to re-test. Perhaps swapping the Warmup/FPR with
>the
> > >other car will rule that in or out.
> > >
> > >Anyway, the car runs OK enough to use, but I'm troubled now, after all
>of
> > >this work so far.
> > >
> > >Ben
> > >
> > >On Tuesday, April 16, 2002 1:07 PM, Ben Swann
> > >[SMTP:bswann at worldnet.att.net] wrote:
> > > > Graham.,
> > > >
> > > > No, not too late as I am still having problems.
> > > >
> > > > Perhaps total leakdown both control and system sides is normal, but
> > >there
> > >was something seemingly flaky going on with the control pressure.
> > > >
> > > > I wanted to verify system check valve not leaking, which Probst
>alludes
> > >to checking first.
> > > > I put all new O-rings on the system pressure regulator check valve.
>Did
> > >this 2X because I had gotten the inner and outer mixed up the first
>time,
> > >ruining the outer.
> > > >
> > > > Now I get about 85%system pressure(was 90 PSI) on both sides(same
>with
> > >the correct o-ring placement as with the previous botched job), so I
> > >attribute this to something I did wrong, but can't figure what exactly.
> > > The outer O-ring is a sloppy fit and tends to slip out of the seat on
>the
> > >shaft when inserted. Anyway, now I am sure the correct o-rings in the
> > >right spot, but it is screwed up worse than before I touched the check
> > >valve.
> > > >
> > > > Maybe the system is totally blocked now at the c.p. regulator. Pump
>on
> > >->
> > >system pressure. When the pump is off, pressure still equal on both
>sides
> > >and drops to about 50 PSI.
> > > >
> > > > I am going to check the screens on the c.p. regulator this
>afternoon.
> > > How much insanity is disassembling and cleaning it.
> > > >
> > > > Probst also suggests a blocked return line. where might it get
>blocked?
> > > >
> > > > What else should I be looking at?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the support!
> > > >
> > > > Ben
> > > >
> > > > On Tuesday, April 16, 2002 6:02 AM, Graham Thackrah
> > >[SMTP:gthack at geog.ucl.ac.uk] wrote:
> > > > > Hello Ben,
> > > > >
> > > > > Sorry if this is a bit late, I took a look through Probst's FI
>book
> > >and
> > >it
> > > > > shows a plot in there with system pressure rapidly falling to c. 3
>bar
> > > > > after shutdown, which it is supposed to hold for a few hours, but
>then
> > >SP
> > > > > drops off to zero after a prolonged period of time "through
>various
> > >minor
> > > > > leaks in the fuel system." I'm not sure if total leakdown
>overnight is
> > > > > undefined behaviour for CIS systems. One place it did say to check
>on
> > >CIS
> > > > > systems suffering fast leakdown is the system pressure regulator,
>it
> > >has 2
> > > > > O rings in it and you can buy a kit from the dealer with new ones
>in.
> > > >
> > > > Right I just got 2 kits today. Used/abused the one I had last week.
> Of
> > >course the Bently blowup does not show detail, and the kit has no
> > >instructions. Almost lost that tiny c-clip that retains the shaft
>which
> > >has the outer(control pressure?).
> > > >
> > > > > Dodgy O rings in there could cause both control and system
>pressure
> > > > > leakdown, one O ring seals off the return from the CPR and the
>other
> > > > > system pressure return to the tank.
> > > > >
> > > > > hth,
> > > > >
> > > > > Cheerio,
> > > > >
> > > > > Graham.
> > > > >
> > > > > P.S. just in case - and sorry if this is teaching you to suck
>eggs! -
> > >but
> > > > > when testing cold control pressure you did disconnect the CPR
>heater
> > > > > didn't you?
> > > >
> > > > Yes
> > > >
> > > > I got that wrong a few times when I was checking my own car
> > > > > out but I think if you jumper the FP relay it also sends a feed to
>the
> > >CPR
> > > > > heater so you'll be testing warm CPR operation even though the
>engine
> > >is
> > > > > not running.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
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