engine alignment

[auditude at get.net]

Hi Stephane,

On 18 Apr 2002 at 13:51, Livolsi, Stephane wrote:
>
> I just did some work on my 86 5ktq exhaust and I think the metal
> bushing thingy you found belongs in the hanger holding up the front
> part of the exhaust where it bolts to the downpipe. (does that make
> ANY sense at all?) Let me try again.....
>
> The main exhaust piece that runs the length of the car bolts up to the
> downpipe with a 3 bolt flange.  Just past this flange is a hanger that
> holds the long exhaust piece up to the tranny itself.  Where the
> hanger bolts up to the tranny, there is a big rubber bushing.  The
> metal bushing you found goes inside the rubber bushing.

Yes, I know what you are talking about, and I was thinking it
probably was part of that stuff.  I can't picture it clearly
at the moment, but it should make sense once I'm there.

I'm trying to be careful not to misuse fasteners in the wrong
place, or bolt something up out of order so that it will have
to come off again to reinstall some underlying part.

> That's my guess anyway.

Thanks!

> BTW, I am going to drop my tranny this weekend because of my slipping
> clutch problem.  How difficult would you rate the job overall.  I am
> very much a do it yourselfer, mechanically inclined and handy with
> tools.  I have replaced a clutch previously in other vehicles.

Omigod!  I would have to say that this clutch job is one of
the most challenging things I've undertaken.  It's simply
amazing that almost every one of the multitude of steps had it
owns unique little problem and difficulty.

Overall, things are probably a bit worse then they really need
to be, since I wasn't sure what all had to come off to get the
tranny off.  For example, I pulled mine off without removing
the downpipe.  However, before I was told/realized that the
downpipe didn't have to come off at all, I was ready to pull
the airbox assembly out to get access to the turbo to downpipe
bolts.

If you have lots of tools and experience with each of the
steps, such as undoing the driveshafts and breaking the axles
nuts free, all that stuff, then it's just a really large,
time-comsuming job.

If it is your only transportation, then it might help you to
stick with it until it done.  In my case, I can simply walk
away from the unfinished project, and drive another car.  This
has resulted in me taking that opportunity many times, and the
clutch/rack(grease and boot replacement too)/MAC11 ignition
sensor analysis for EFI trigger project has taken many more
days (okay months!) than it could have.

However, if I have to do it again, it will go much quicker.
Much of my time spent actually working on the car was to try
to understand how to pull stuff off using different
combinatiosn of tools and improvisations.  Plus, I'd know what
did and didn't need to come off.

I would say that this would be an excellent job for a mechanic
to get paid to do.  I can't bring myself to that, so I'm
plodding through the project myself.  I got the tranny off and
back on the car by myself with a large floorjack.

I would say that you must have patience and a logical mind.  I
wrestled with the tranny for quite some time from down below,
for example, only to find out that the stupid heater valve and
hoses were hanging between the top of the bellhousing and the
block.

Make sure you have all your parts ready before starting.  Some
parts and tools I ended up buying either before or during this
job include:
clutch kit (pressure plate, disc, TO bearing, TO bearing
guide, crank pilot bearing, rear crank seal)  You could also
replace all shaft seals on the tranny, I didn't have a usable
puller for these.
special Audi/VW grease for the rack
new rack boot
used non-leaking rack from donor car
new flywheel bolts w/thread sealant
new axle nuts
clutch disc alignment tool
possibly 12pt triple-square socket driver for axles
tie rod puller (I seemed to need this to reinstall a heat
shield I probably didn't have to remove)
dremel with cut-off wheel for any frozen exhaust bolts
new exhaust or other bolts
hook style seal puller
floor jack (tranny jack would be better)
method of supporting the front of the motor less tranny

It's probably not a complete list.

You will save yourself a lot of trouble if you meticulously
bag and tag all the parts and harware you remove, so you know
where to re-place it.  I didn't do this, but the challenge of
reassembling a big puzzle can be fun.

I've done a clutch on a Coupe GT, it wasn't a problem (just
don't try to cut corners like not removing the tie rod
bracket).  I've also done on on a Saturn, which only required
pushing the tranny to the side to get the parts out (without
removing/turning the flywheel).

I would have to say that this clutch job was the hardest of
them all.  (I say was, even though I'm not "done" yet.  The
hardest parts are over.)

If you have other cars to drive, and most of the tools you
need, it shouldn't be a problem.  Just be patient and
persistent.  I'm not rich enough to pay for someone else to do
it.

I don't know of much else that is as difficult.  Even things
that require special care, like assembling motors, are "less
difficult" then the many, seemingly endless, contortions and
uncomfortable positions that are required to get everything
off that needs to be off.  Heads, arms, and tools get heavy
when your holding them up for a while.

Since I don't know what would be more difficult, I would say
that this is a 10 out of a possible 10.  This is with a
California car as well, to the best of my knowledge.  A rusty
or salty car from somewhere else could be worse, I would
imagine.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Good luck!

Ken

> > ----------
> > From: 	auditude at get.net[SMTP:auditude at get.net]
> > Sent: 	April 18, 2002 9:40 AM
> > To: 	quattro at audifans.com
> > Cc: 	armanmik at n-jcenter.com
> > Subject: 	re: engine alignment
> >
> > Mike Arman armanmik at n-jcenter.com wrote:
> > >
> > > On the type 44 engine alignment thread, if you change ONLY the
> > > engine mounts or the tranny mounts, the set you did NOT disturb
> > > will keep everything in alignment. If you change all four at once,
> > > then you'll
> > need
> > > to check and re-set the engine alignment. I seem to recall that
> > > once it
> > is
> > > in the correct position, you're supposed to torque the top motor
> > > mount bolts with the engine idling.
> > >
> > > Check the Bentley to be sure.
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >
> > I think that in my case, the motor/tranny might have been out
> > of alignment (from its previous life with the PO) before I
> > removed the tranny to do the clutch.
> >
> > This being the first time I've gone through that part of the
> > car, I want to verify that it is aligned.
> >
> > I found that upon reinstalling the tranny onto the motor, the
> > through-bolts that hold the tranny brackets to the mounts
> > could only go through very crooked.  Then I noticed how the
> > end of the tranny is noticeably too far to the left in the
> > floor tunnel.
> >
> > I looked at the Bentley and saw the measurement for front to
> > rear positioning.  I think I'll need to source a yardstick or
> > similar to provide the reference to measure from, as it uses
> > the distance from a straight line between the tranny mounts
> > (IIRC, it could have been subframe mounts, but I don't think
> > it was) to some feature on the tranny (like its end) as the
> > spec.
> >
> > I suppose that the best method will be to loosen all the
> > mounts, center the motor/tranny in the mounts and tunnel,
> > tighten the rear tranny mounts, start the motor, and tighten
> > the motor mounts while idling.  I don't remember if the front
> > snubber stopper mount thingee is adjustable like on the type
> > 85's, but if it is I suppose I would make sure it is low
> > enough to prevent much engine rocking.
> >
> > I came across a thick metal bushing, gold in color, that I at
> > first thought might be part of the tranny mount hardware.  I
> > don't think it is tho'.  As I type this, I think it might
> > belong as part of the exhaust or something.  I could have done
> > more to keep track of where hardware and stuff went.  So far
> > it's coming along ok, as the correct pieces and hardware gets
> > put back on the car, the remaining parts start to thin out and
> > make it easier to find the next piece.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Ken
> >
>