low boost, but runs well...

[paanta at splatterfish.com]

Yeah, I got that part.  If the WOT switch is dead, though, and I
remove the connector and short between the femail WOT switch
terminals on the non-switch side of the connector, will this trick the
car into thinking that the WOT switch is on?  If this is the cause of
my boost problems, shouldn't the car go to full 1.4 bar boost in this
situation?

The car is making 1.1 bar very quickly..by 2300-2500 RPM in 4th
gear very easily...but then it just sticks at 1.1-1.2 and won't go any
higher.


On 9 Aug 2002 at 9:51, Pat Korach wrote:

> Pat
>
> The WOT switch sometimes dies because of a solder break inside.  I had two
> WOT switches that were defective (tested with ohm meter).
> Repaired both of them by separating the halves and resoldering then epoxy
> them back together again.
>
> Pat Korach
> Kirklaand, WA
>
> paanta at splatterfish.com wrote:
>
> > All,
> >   So, after replacing my IC and crank breather hose on my '88 5ktq, I
> > no longer have a boost leak or major running problems.  The car
> > idles rock steady now, and is very smooth across the power band.  I
> > do get a bit of a surge when I'm creeping along at idle and just off it
> > in 1st gear...but I can deal with that later.
> >   However, the car is only making 1.1 to 1.2 bar right now.  I know my
> > WOT switch is suspect, so this morning, I started the car, let it warm
> > up, and while it was idling I popped the connector on the switch off
> > and jumpered the WOT switch terminals on the connector.  I still only
> > saw 1.2 bar at full throttle.
> >   Questions are:  does just shorting these two terminals together
> > work, or did I just confuse the ECU by doing that?  If it isn't the WOT
> > switch, where else should I be looking?  Wastegate frequency valve?
> >
> > -Pat
>
>