Water Injection Schematics

[Lewis, Gary M]

I have created what I think is a better than draft but perhaps not complete
schematic of my WI design.  I freely give this to all, so if you want a
copy, send me an email.  I will send JPG's (60kb) as the actual drawing
files are 2+ meg, All I ask is:

1. Be nice, I'm not an electrical engineer.  In fact, I'm not safe to plug
in an extension cord.  I got most of this from available info on the
internet.  I'm more of a big (and I mean BIG) picture guy.

2. If it is screwed up, not maximized, or any other issues, please lemme
know.  I'd love to make improvements!!!!

3. This is untested stuff on a T44 to my knowledge.  If you don't use check
valves, or install something incorrectly, and hydro-lock, bending rods and
other various sundries, or crank up the boost to 18 psi and the WI for some
reason doesn't work and you smoke your motor, don't blame me.  All I can
tell you for sure is this stuff works WONDERS when properly set-up.  One guy
with an Eagle Talon ran 18 psi at 15 degrees advance w/o WI, and 23 degrees
advance at 22 psi.  Woah...


Enough babble!!!!

What I did was design a 2-stage system, with 2 .4mm nozzle's, one that
energizes at 1.4 bar, and one at 1.6 bar, for a total of .8mm, which equates
to approx 215ccm at 5 bar (100 psi pump minus 16-18 psi boost).  Looking at
Scott M's 1010ccm Fuel delivery (5 cyls x 202ccm at) 50% duty, this is below
the 25% threshold at 50%, and inside the 10% min at higher duty cycles.  The
reason I split them was it is much more difficult (read $$$$$) to do a large
WI injector that MAPS the boost levels and varies WI pressures.  The method
I'm employing seems simple and easy, also, most folks that want varying
levels use a split system similar to what I'm doing.

I have 2 schematics, one that activates the 1.6 bar injector off of boost
pressure only, and one that adds in the WOT switch.  I think 10vt's with K26
and RS2's running CIS and a 1.8 - 2 bar solution will don't often see part
throttle 1.6 bar pressures, but will often see 1.4 bar, esp. climbing a
hill, and the .4mm injector I think would be perfect, so I suggest with this
schematic use pressure switch version only.  The K24 set will often see 1.6
bar part throttle situations (at least I did), so the schematic that adds in
the WOT switch activation is better for you, as I think that 2 - .4mm
nozzles spraying at 1.6 bar at part throttle may be two much.

Javad, Marc, Mike, Jim, i.e., the 034 EFI set, I think either set-up would
work, just grab the one that seems to suit your purposes.  Also, change the
nozzle size (in the upward direction of course!!!) to match your injectors
max rate of flow (e.g.., 380 ccms x 5 x 90% duty = 342ccms at 20%, = 2 -
.6mm nozzles).  Also, you will probably want to fiddle around with injection
activation pressures.  Further, subtract the max boost pressure (it will be
higher of course than us lowly CIS weenies) from the 100psi pump pressure to
get total nozzle pressure.  If you guys are getting well above 2.0 bar, you
may need a larger second boost nozzle than you calculate on the upper end.

The only addition to I may add to the schematics are in cabin displays
(idiot lights) that activate when the pump, pressure switches, and solenoid
activates.  There is a nifty gizmo that actually tells when h2o is
injecting, but it is spendy.

That is it for now

Gary Lewis
1990 200TQW, RS2 Turbo, 1991 TQ Intercooler, 1.8 bar, Bypass Valve, Euro's,
Bilsteins, Redline in tranny and diffs

Planned upgrades: H20 Injection (Aug 02), Keyless Entry (Aug 02) 2.0 Bar
Upgrade (Sept 02)