quattro digest, Vol 1 #3817 - NAC Specific Heat

[Larry C Leung]

Very well said Huw!   (sorry for the less than timely reply)

LL - NY



> From: Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>
> Reply-To: human747 at attbi.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: james accordino <        >
> Cc: Larry C Leung <l.leung at juno.com>,
>         audi list <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: Re: quattro digest, Vol 1 #3802 - 15 msgs
>
>
> The specific heat is related to how much energy is required to alter
> the
> temperature of a material (right, Larry?).
>
> In other words, the same amount of energy transferred into
> different
> materials (water vs. oil, eg) will result in a different change of
> temperature.
>
> Water has a very high "capacity" for heat energy, in that a lot can
> be
> dumped into it, moved and then extracted, say, without massive
> changes
> in temperature.  In fact, water is almost magical, so interesting a
> compound, in fact, that it is probably absolutely necessary for life
> as
> we know it... Jim.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 21:23:53 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>
> Reply-To: human747 at attbi.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: n-engelbert at northwestern.edu
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: Arrrrrrrrgh!  Intermittent dead 90q ignition (long)
>
>
> > So, am I right to assume that if a contact in the FPR goes bad,
> that it will
> > disable ignition?  The relay is double or triple throw?  The car
> doesn't feel
> > like it's running out of gas/losing fuel, but more like it's just
> losing spark.
> >  It doesn't always sputter, the tach just rapidly drops to zero,
> and the car
> > won't fire for a few minutes.
>
> No, it's more the other way around.  The only ignition/fuel pump
> interface is a tach wire running to the fuel pump relay, which
> provides
> the safety feature of shutting off the fuel pump if the rpm's go to
> zero
> or the red line.
>
> If your car's demise is truly to losing spark (tach caves to zero
> as
> first symptom) then you need to took at ignition components.  The
> most
> likely culprit is at the hall sender on the side of the
> distributor.
> It's three little wires inside the dist. are prone to damage,
> wiggling
> the hall connector thing can be a short term cure.
>
> The best way to test this is to swap in a known good dist assembly,
> I
> guess.
>
> Another place the ignition can die is the power source, to the
> control
> module say, or the coil.  That could be ignition switch related I
> guess,
> or water damage to the ignition control module.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 9
> From: "Russ Maki" <rinard at execpc.com>
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Reply-To: Russ.Maki at mail6.mx.voyager.net
> Subject: Re: 4ktq brake upgrade opinions
> Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 21:28:54 -0400
>
> Last fall my instructor at a BMWCCA school at Road America was
> Craig
> Jones of Jones Motorsports Ltd. Craig has a very nice 4000tq,
> outfitted, he says, with A4 calipers. I didn't get a close look at
> the
> fabrication, but I did notice that he had 15-inch Speedline wheels
> on
> the car.
>
> Craig and his son run a tuning shop in Kenosha -- in fact, they're
> the
> TAP distributor for the Upper Midwest.
>
> Russ Maki
> Ixonia, Wis.
>
>
>
> > From: "Mark L. Chang" <mchang at ee.washington.edu>
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> > Subject: Re: 4ktq brake upgrade opinions
> >
> > Wilwoods from RPI are okay, and fit under a 15" wheel I think.
> They
> have
> > flex issues under hard braking, and have no external dust seals,
> so
> > therefore, they really aren't for "street" use, especially if you
> are
> > planning on winter driving the car in the rust/salt belt.
> >
> > You could definitely fab your own bracketry to fit any caliper if
> you
> > have a good machine shop to go to.
> >
> > Another option is to consider the Outlaw 4000 calipers. Gary K. I
> think
> > had a set of these guys on his 4ktq and seemed to enjoy the
> performance.
> >
> > Otherwise, good pads are the first step.
> >
> > On Thu, Aug 08, 2002 at 04:50:26PM -0400 or thereabouts, Eddy
> Mattice
> wrote:
> > > Thought I would see what the collective wisdom had to say about
> this...
> > > Car is a 86 4ktq, h+r's w/bilstein sports, 15" speedlines
> 205/50r15
> tires
> > > about to have 3" exhaust and some extra boost... I am really
> trying
> to avoid
> > > swapping strut housings and everything... So is there any other
> options for
> > > good brks on this car... w/o spending huge amounts of money or
> time???
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 21:29:39 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>
> Reply-To: human747 at attbi.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: Mihnea Cotet <mik at info.fundp.ac.be>
> Cc: JShadzi at aol.com, mswanson at sonitrol.net, quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: more BOOOOST!
>
>
> > My first question to Marc is what oil temp gauge is he using?
> >
> > Because if he's still using the stock 4kq LED gauge, these are
> quite
> > commonly known for not showing the real temp...
>
> regarding grounding them, this reminds me of the time I glanced at
> my
> coupe's (analog) gauges with the cigarette lighter pushed in.  All
> these
> console devices shared one miserable little 43 gauge ground wire, by
> the
> way.
>
> voltage was at about 8-9 volts, oil temp was pegged, and I didn't
> get as
> far as looking at the oil pressure gauge.
>
> Grounding everything in sight, but especially the cig. lighter, to
> one
> of the shifter mounting bolts, with separate wires, not only fixed
> the
> weird readings, but halved the time the cig lighter took to pop
> out.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 21:35:14 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>
> Reply-To: human747 at attbi.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: Marc Swanson <mswanson at sonitrol.net>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: more BOOOOST!
>
>
> > Interesting thought.  One known electrical issue that I've got is
> my
> > alternator seems to have an unsteady output past about 4k RPMs.
> It
> > seems to swing between ~13-15 volts in an AC like fashion.. wonder
> if
> > the capacitor on the back is flaky?
>
> I think the cap. is just for noise suppression.  have you tested
> this
> with a separate meter?  Does it happen with no load so you can do
> that
> easily?
>
> If you can verify it this way, then you can risk getting caught up
> in
> the alt belt and measure what's happening at the alt exciter
> terminal,
> the battery, and a few other key places.  You should also try some
> different grounding locations for the (external) meter.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 21:40:29 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>
> Reply-To: human747 at attbi.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: Edward J Kellock <ekellock at juno.com>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: Coupe GT cooling fan
>
>
> > The cooling fan in my Coupe GT runs all the time.
>
> All the time as in *all* the time, or just all the time the car is
> running?
>
> > I unplugged the connector to the temp sensor at the
> > bottom of the radiator and the fan still runs.
>
> so that is not the culprit
>
> > I jumpered the connector pins in pairs (there are 3)
> > and the fan did not turn off.  I may not have jumpered
> > all 3 together at one time though.
>
> the temp sensor is a normally-open type switch, so you can't turn
> "off"
> the fan by "closing" it anyway.
>
> > I swapped the relay with two others and the fan still runs.
>
> so the relay is also not at fault... meaning, that even in the
> absence
> of a connection to the sensor, voltage and ground are being provided
> to
> the relay to turn it on.  if that is the case there might be a short
> in
> the harness, probably grounding the relay trigger coil, since that
> seems
> to be the way Audi likes to wire these things (12v constant,
> switched
> ground).  Does the fan run with the relay out?
>
> Remember there are two fan circuits, which are mostly electrically
> distinct.  Sounds like you have checked out the "running" system to
> no
> avail.  The "after run" system is triggered by a sensor on a bracket
> at
> the back of the cam cover.  try unplugging one of it's wires, and I
> believe it also has a relay of its own?
>
> > The a/c switch is turned off. (a/c compressor is seized)
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 21:42:46 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>
> Reply-To: human747 at attbi.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: "Ice Cat ^. .^ ~" <iceisit at earthlink.net>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: Hood
>
>
>
> > >>So do you think I should try to fix it myself or take it to the
> body shop ?
> > >
> > >Isn't it insured?  Let *them* pay the shop (unless you're real
> good!)
> > >You're going to be staring at that hood every time you drive!
> >
> > Douglas, about the same time someone else suggested the insurance
> > company.  I didn'tknow it would cover such a small thing.
>
> Insurance will cover anything, but there is usually a ddeductible
> that
> affects whether it is worth claiming.  If you have comprehensive,
> you
> should have coverage for vandalism and the like.  It might also have
> a
> much lower deductible than your collision coverage.
>
> Although I'd be tempted to keep an eye our for a good used hood in
> a
> similar (or contrasting!) color.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 21:46:49 -0400
> To: Russ.Maki at mail6.mx.voyager.net, quattro at audifans.com
> From: Robert Myers <robert at s-cars.org>
> Subject: Re: 4ktq brake upgrade opinions
>
> At 09:28 PM 8/9/02, Russ Maki wrote:
>
> >Craig and his son run a tuning shop in Kenosha -- in fact, they're
> the
> >TAP distributor for the Upper Midwest.
>
> Hmmmm.  That's not all that good a recommendation, IMO. :-(
>
>
> Bob
> *****
>   Robert L. Myers   304-574-2372
>   Rt. 4, Box 57,  Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA   WV tag Q SHIP
>   '95 urS6  Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen    ICQ 22170244
>   http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm
> *****
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 15
> From: DGraber460 at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 21:47:08 EDT
> Subject: Re: bad fuel pump relay?
> To: n-engelbert at nwu.edu
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com, urq at audifans.com
>
> --
> [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
> In a message dated 8/9/2002 6:00:47 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> n-engelbert at nwu.edu writes:
>
>
> > I took the fuel pump relay out of my 89 90q to see if there is
> anything
> > abnormal that could cause the intermittent ignition shutoff I have
> described
> > where the car will stall and the tach will drop almost as if one
> turns off
> > the ignition key and will not restart for 5 minutes to over an
> hour.
> >
>
> The way the tach drops leads me to believe its electrical, not
> fuel.
> I am chasing the same sort of problem on my WX URQ.
> Mine started acting up one day going to work, cutting out more &
> more until
> it would barely run. It never died but got to the point it sounded
> like it
> was running on 1 cyl.
> I gambled and drove it home in the afternoon and had no problems. I
> have
> checked everything (fuse panel wires, ignition switch, grounds,
> complete
> teardown of distributor, etc.) and found nothing, and cannot get it
> to repeat
> the problem.
> How hot does your car have to get before the problem occurs?
> When I have issues that self correct over time, I usually think of a
> heat
> related issue. An electrical circuit unable to handle the load for
> instance?
> Let me know if you find anything, as it might help me as well.
>
> Dennis
> Denver
> "Good judgment is a result of experience, which is often the result
> of poor
> judgment"
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 21:47:23 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>
> Reply-To: human747 at attbi.com
> Organization: HUMAN Speakers
> To: n-engelbert at northwestern.edu
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: Arrrrrrrrgh!  Intermittent dead 90q ignition (long)
>
>
> > I've been having intermittent ignition problems with my 89 90q
> with 214000
> > miles for over a month now.
>
> > In the past month, I have replaced the distributor/hall sensor and
> ignition
> > control computer with units sourced from Chris Semple...
> > I bought a NEW ignition coil/module from pap-parts, and the car
> > drove fine from Dayton to Chicago and drove fine for most of this
> week as well.
>
> Oops, that makes my suggestion to swap the hall sender, etc.,
> pretty
> irrelevant, doesn't it?
>
> > Am I missing something?  Where else should I look?  Is it possible
> that the
> > keyed ignition switch is failing, though it still performs all
> other functions
> > it should?
>
> perhaps.  But that should be measurable - can you carry a
> multimeter, or
> experiment at home?  I know intermittent problems are a bear to
> track
> down, but i think you should be able to measure 12 volts at the
> coil
> when the ignition is "on".  Find it, make the problem happen, and
> then
> see if it is still there.  if not, you've got your gremlin by the
> tail
> and just have to figure out which hole it lives in...
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>
> --__--__--
>
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>