trunk wiring help?!

[Kneale Brownson]

--
I found my problem when the backup lights wouldn't work (same for the rear
fog light) was corrosion in the bulb housing and the wiring to the housing
right at the light.  One of them (can't remember which) had only half a
blade left on the wire.  The rest had rusted away.  I think it was the rear
fog that the corrosion had run up the wire under the insulation for several
inches.

At 09:03 AM 08/18/2002 -0700, CL Wong wrote:

>Patient is a 200Q20v.
>
>Tried to solve my inoperative reverse lights this
>morning but made matters worse instead.  It doesn't
>help that I have no idea how any of this stuff works
>but here goes.
>
>Used Scott Mockry's test (parking lights on, in
>reverse, postive to hot parking and negative to hot
>backup and found circuit, same thing out of reverse
>and still have circuit.)
>
>I do get 12v on the reverse light circuit when I put
>my negative multimeter lead on a metal object but not
>on the ground for bulb so the reverse switch is good.
>Bulbs are new.
>
>Found some cracked wiring jackets but no broken wires.
>After wrapping up the cracked jackets with electric
>tape, the driver-side parking light stopped working.
>Cut the wiring bundle that has the reverse and parking
>light wires out of the car for an out of the car
>inspection (it's hot outside) and found no faulty
>wires.  Where else should I look?  I'm sure after I
>put the wiring harness together again (it's too hot to
>solder for now) my reverse lights still won't work and
>the drivierside parking still won't work.
>
>My suspicion is the ground, but do the lights get
>ground from somewhere other than the 14gauge ground
>cable in this wiring harness?
>
>Do I need to check out the right side trunk wires?
>doesn't look like much there.
>
>Got to get a quick resolution.  The wife is
>threatening to give the car away.
>
>thanks in advance.
>
>Chi
>
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