4kq rear tie rod removal

[QSHIPQ at aol.com]

--
[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
The best way to release this is to apply heat to the inside of the subframe
nut.  I presume if you are removing it you are replacing it.  If so, you can
heat the crap out of it (butane torche =- 14usd).  If not, you want to apply
some heat (before you smell the rubber bushing melting), then alternate with
some rust-bust.  Be patient, all bolts on audis come off without cheater
bars, btdt.  Sounds to me like maybe the innner tie rod sleeve has welded
itself to the bolt, in which case, life isn't going to be fun.  Does the tie
rod move up and down freely, or does is spring back to rest position.  If the
latter occurs you are good, if it doesn't, the sleeve is welded to the bolt.
That is just no darn fun, btdt, you have to use cutting wheel.

Since you are already in there, heat is going to be your best ally.  As you
found out, that bracket can't take  "cheater" bar kind of force, and you now
risk having to fix that bracket as well, since it's a key part of rear toe.
The measures on both brackets are identical as far as triangulation, so it
shouldn't be too hard to see if it's within tie rod adjustment range.  If you
elongated the hole, you can repair it by welding a washer (SAE spec give good
tight tolerances on metric bolts) to that bracket.

Get rid of the cheater bar, you are getting darn close to having to remove
the subframe, and if that bolt is frozen, I'm thinking removing the subframe
isn't going to be pretty either.

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
'87 T44tqw
'84 RS2URQ Project
'83 urq
'86 T44tq
Thread goes:
The washer under 19mm bolt is bent up to prevent it from walking out. Itmay
be giving you some resistance, but I doubt enough to be bendingthings! A good
penetrating oil cant hurt.BobHuw Powell wrote:>>>>>Seems straightforward
enough, use a tie rod puller (or pickle fork) to>>free the tie rod end from
the strut housing.  Then, remove a 19mm bolt>>connecting the other end
("eye") of the tie rod to the subframe.>>>>Well, it appears that the 19mm
bolt is bending the part of the subframe as>>I am backing it out.  I'm having
to use an 18" breaker bar with a 3'>>cheater pipe to get it to back out, and
the bending bracket might explain>>that.>>