Clutch job on '86 5kq

[james accordino]

I would and did do the input shaft or "pilot" bearing
in the crank.  It's very cheap.  I think I paid around
$7. for a FAG or Fafnir.  It MIGHT be O.K., but if it
fails, you'll kick yourself in the A$$.  Some listers
reported it being a PITA to remove.  I did one with
the packed grease method and it came out real easy.
On my 89 200q, all that got me was a facefull of
grease.  20 times.  I got the hammer puller with the
pilot attachment from Harbor Freight (Autozone also
has these to use for free with a deposit) and it came
right out on the first smack.  I did both seals as I
was on a mission to replace every rubber part and seal
on my drivetrain.

Jim Accordino

--- auditude at cox.net wrote:
> At least do the main seal, or else it might start
> howling at you.  There are some listers currently,
> and many listers historically, that have had to drop
> the tranny just to replace a howling and embarassing
> rear main seal.  It's cheap too.  Just do that at
> least.
>
> As for the tranny seal, I think I skipped it on my
> car, but there's really no reason not to do that
> too.
>
> Later,
>
> Ken
>
> Eyvind Spangen eyvind.spangen at c2i.net wrote:
> >
> > The clutch in my car is *really* tired, and I'll
> be replacing it soon.
> > I've ordered a new clutch, pressure plate and
> throwout bearing. I will
> > replace the rear main seal and transmission input
> shaft seal if
> > they're leaking, but what if they are dry? I'm on
> a very limited
> > budget (college student), so money is absolutely
> an issue..
> >
> > Is it *very* stupid not to replace them while I'm
> in there? :-)
> > Anything else that should be replaced?
> >
> > --
> > E. Spangen
> > '86 Audi 100 2.2 CS quattro
>
>


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