I win! (was: Bad gas?)
Ben Swann
bswann at worldnet.att.net
Mon Dec 16 10:42:53 EST 2002
Robert,
I need to slow down or double check stuff like this. I thought for sure I
had disassembled one of these. I do recall getting out the brass screw,
but it has been too long to remember the details. I thought I'd
disassembled one with great difficulty, but it has been about a year or
more since. My recollection is the housing split in two, but that may be
only possible with a hammer and may be a one way only operation - that is
you might not get it back together again. I did something with that brass
screw, perhaps used it to facilitate cleaning - there is a port behind it
right?
More recently, I have done 2 or 3 where I simply remove and clean. O-rings
if not disintegrated can sometimes be cleaned and replaced, but best to get
the new ones in a kit from dealer - only a couple bucks. Clean the mating
surface gently. Clean orfices with carb/fi cleaner (don't think brake
cleaner is the right stuff, but might work in a pinch). If I recall, if
there is an orfice in, there is a corresponding orfice out. Of course the
flow would be different, but if no flow then it would be clogged.
All of this is from memory. I started removing and cleaning as a matter of
course when the beater that driven into the driveway would not start later.
Troubleshooting showed no fuel to injectors even when plate was lifted all
the way. Diff. pressure reg. was blocked solid. Removed and cleaned the
crud/varnish and debris, o-rings, and shot cleaner through the orfices 'til
spray came out the others. Worked like a charm. It was a miracle the P.O.
was able to get the car to my house, because everything went downhill from
there.
I never checked for resistance, so I don't know what that would have told
me in the cases where cleaning helped. I don't see how resistance is
related to blockage. Maybe you can try cleaning, and see what happens. I
have had to remove clean and replace a couple of times on a few of these,
as the first time didn't always get it. Once it was "fixed" it was fixed
however.
Since then, I did two more DPRs, though problems on the latter were the FI
sensor I have been quick to point my finger at lately. I do beleive
cleaning helped, but DPR was just part of compound problem.
So, I have had about 5 or 6 of the 5 cyl CIS-E cars in the last year or
two, and 3 of those had been sitting months before I got to them. This is
what my comparative knowledge is based upon. Contrary to what my wife
perceives, I don't do cars day in a out, so I obviously have not seen all
of the problems, like the diaphragm fuel pressure regulator. This above is
related to my experience. I do read the Bentley, but do not always perform
all of the tests, as sometimes experience proves to be the best guide, but
not always.
I hope this helps. Sorry I took so long to get back to you.
Ben
On Saturday, December 14, 2002 8:59 AM, R Mangas
[SMTP:porter_dog at hotmail.com] wrote:
> I don't have the part in front of me at the moment, Ben, but where are
> the assembly screws located? From my cursory examination last night I
only
> saw one, about 8-10mm across, on the mounted side. I pulled it out and
it
> was obvious that it _wasn't_ an assembly screw.
>
> Should brake cleaner shot into one port come out the other? Mine was
> plugged, but I don't know if that's the normal unpowered state or not.
>
> Thanks!
> Robert]
>
>
> >From: Ben Swann <bswann at worldnet.att.net>
> >Reply-To: "bswann at worldnet.att.net" <bswann at worldnet.att.net>
> >To: "'porter_dog at hotmail.com'" <porter_dog at hotmail.com>
> >CC: "'quattro at audifans.com'" <quattro at audifans.com>
> >Subject: I win! (was: Bad gas?)
> >Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 21:56:37 -0500
> >
> >Great you found it.
> >
> >A1. I have had some success going the one step further than I've been
> >telling folks, which is to take it apart completely and clean. I don't
> >know how this might improve the resistance value, but there is penty of
> >room for varnished gas to gum up. You need to get those little brass
screw
> >out with very strong matching screwdriver and a lot of oomph. There is
a
> >diaphragm - thin metal which can be cleaned with very fine - say 1000
grit
> >paper. If you can wait and find one, it may not be worth the trouble,
but
> >I have fixed them when in a pinch.
> >
> >A2. I probably have at least one extra used one if you need. I'll
check.
> >
> >Ben
> >
> >p.s. its always nice to have one or more of the same cars around to swap
> >parts when trying to narrow down a problem. Parts cars are good if you
> >have the room.
> >
> >[ recap: 86 4kq, stalls after starting. Differential pressure
regulator
> >current good, system pressure and fuel delivery rate good.
> >
> > The next test according to bently was to check the fuel return line
> >volume out of the lower chamber of the fuel distributor, and that looked
to
> >be a reallll hassle- corroded hardline in close quarters, ugh. So I
copped
> >out on that and checked the differential pressure regulator resistance
> >instead- out of spec at about 28.5 ohms. Hmmmm...
> >
> > Lifted the hood on my 87 4kq, took the regulator out and swapped
them.
> >Now the 86 runs perfect, just like it did :)
> >
> > Q1: Can the bad DPR be 'fixed'?
> >
> > Q2: Anyone have a 4kq DPR they'd like to sell? Ideally, I need at
> >least
> >one mounting screw as well...
> >
> > Two audi's are better than one,
> >Robert]
>
>
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