'86 4kq back to no start, CIS help please.

[R Mangas]

   I haven't changed the temp sender, but I do have a 15kohm resistor that I
can plug into the sensor harness.  I'll try that- it's a good idea.  I'm
also going to try and rule out the 'big vacuum leak' scenario.  Fuse will be
easy to check.   Thanks for the input!

  Does anyone know which line I need to pull to get at the 'lower chamber
return volume'?



Robert





>From: <James at ringsperformance.com>
>To: "R Mangas" <porter_dog at hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re:  '86 4kq back to no start, CIS help please.
>Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 21:42:23 -0700
>
> >   Because it was convienient to do so, I swapped in the differential
> > pressure regulator from my '87 and 'solved' the problem for 150 miles.
>This
> > came to an abrupt end when I tried to leave work to drive home
>yesterday.
>
>Have you replaced the temp sender on the bottom of the water neck? One
>minute, $23.
>
> >   The current problem is a _total_ non-start; it won't even TRY to fire,
>not
> > even a little bit.
>
>Check the "spare" fuse on the edge nearest the outside of the car. It
>should be 10-amp/red.
>
> >    The next test is to check the return volume from 'the lower chamber
>of
> > the fuel distributor'.  There are two hardlines coming off the fuel
>dist;
> > which one is it?  I'd guess the smaller, as the expected flow rate is
>low.
>
>I'd guess the larger, as the back pressure needs to be lower.
>
> >    I don't know enough about CIS to figure that out, and I'm in a bit of
>a
> > spot.  It's parked in staff parking in the office building my company is
>in,
> > which will be fine for a couple days but too much longer and there might
>be
> > some frowning going on.  Also, I'm moving in two weeks and don't have a
>lot
> > of free time to devote to a suddenly unreliable car.  If I can't get
>this
> > sorted and kind of quickly, I'll be forced to scrap it :(
>
>The CIS on these ancient cars is pretty robust. Very little can totally
>disable the car, other than a failed fuel pump or big vacuum leak. Check
>for that; perhaps the new DPR works fine but a fitting broke on your last
>drive? A smallish fitting that breaks during driving will still let the car
>run, but it won't start (especially cold) because of a lean mixture.
>
> >   I've never done the t-belt, no idea when it was done either- is there
>a
> > quick way to verify cam timing?
>
>Remove the PS belt and front TB cover (two funny allen-recess "washers").
>Turn the engine (CW from the front) until the little dash-oh on the
>flywheel aligns with the notch in the trans case. It's a PITA to find/align
>the first time with no BTDC marks or anything else. Then the dot on the
>BACK of the cam sprocket should be aligned with the top of the VC gasket
>(dumb, yup, but that's the design technique, at least it's better than the
>4-cyls) adjacent to the #1 spark plug. And if the belt breaks it won't hurt
>the engine.
>
>Otherwise find _the_ local shop where people take their older
>Passats/Foxes/Quantums and get them to fix it.
>
>cu, James Marriott
>'87 4kq (alias "late-B2 90q") with rare ersatz NG engine, 184k, being
>restored from rear-end total loss
>'89 200q (MC1, ProconTen/no bag, 1.8 blah blah), 142k, already been
>un-totaled
>Boise, ID, USA     http://www.webpak.net/~marriott/
>www.ringsperformance.com


_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus