door handle/rod clip
Roger Mounsey
roger-mounsey at webtv.net
Fri Dec 20 07:19:56 EST 2002
--
Impex was able to supply me with the upper rod/handle connector clip
(p/n 893837821A on my '86 4kq)For .67 ea. If you need one in a pinch,
send me your address offline , & you can send the actual postage (only)
@ your convenience.
--
From: quattro-request at audifans.com
Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4371 - 19 msgs
Reply-To: quattro at audifans.com
To: quattro at audifans.com
Sender: quattro-admin at audifans.com
Precedence: bulk
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 16:20:33 -0500 (EST)
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Today's Topics:
1. New S4 wheels on type 44? (Evgeny Sokolovsky)
2. follow up on snows on front of typ44 and squirrely handling (JordanVw at aol.com)
3. Re:Strange badge engineering (Ti Kan)
4. RE:Febreeze NOT good for Audi (j fizz)
5. Heated seat question (TT)
6. RE:Febreeze NOT good for Audi (Kneale Brownson)
7. FS: 1984 4000q (RM)
8. Re:Parking on an incline (Dave Glubrecht)
9. RE:Door handle help? (Robert Deis)
10. christmasexhaust stud r&r /torque for head bolts? (scott thomas)
11. Re:Parking on an incline (Huw Powell)
12. broken stud removal (scott thomas)
13. Re:christmasexhaust stud r&r /torque for head bolts? (Huw Powell)
14. Cold Start Devices (CTDiesel at aol.com)
15. Re:Cold Start Devices (Ti Kan)
16. Re:Cold Start Devices (Huw Powell)
17. Re:broken stud removal (R Mangas)
18. Re:Cold Start Devices (CTDiesel at aol.com)
19. Re:broken stud removal (Kneale Brownson)
--__--__--
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:39:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Evgeny Sokolovsky <esokolov at Glue.umd.edu>
To: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: New S4 wheels on type 44?
Has anyone tried to fit 2000+ S4 AVUS wheels on pre-91 type 44?
They are, AFAIK, 7.5x17" ET45, same offset as stock wheels. I am thinking
about getting the bigger wheels for my recently acquired '89
200tqa with possible future BIRA brake upgrade im mind.
Does anyone know if these particular ones with 205/50-17 tires will fit
without rubbing anything? Any other suggestions which 16 or 17" wheels to
get?
Thanks
Evgueni.
'89 200TQA 183K Miles Euro headlights, 200q20v rear brakes upgrade.
'87 5KCSTQ 187K Miles 1.8 bar
'01 VW Golf TDI
--__--__--
Message: 2
From: JordanVw at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 12:05:31 EST
Subject: follow up on snows on front of typ44 and squirrely handling
To: suffolk.associates at verizon.net, quattro at audifans.com
--
[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
took the snows off and put the all seasons back on. mom is happy again. ;<
)
case closed.
(ps, i actually got my money back for the 2 snows i bought when i returned
them!)
chris
--__--__--
Message: 3
From: Ti Kan <ti at amb.org>
Subject: Re: Strange badge engineering
To: duane at zk3.dec.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 09:07:18 -0800 (PST)
Cc: quattro at audifans.com (Quattro List)
Andrew Duane USG writes:
> I was behind a late model A6Q today, and the badges that say
> "A6" and "2.8Quattro" had been moved up to the crest of the
> trunk so they were in line with the 4 rings.... Very strange.
> Was this badge engineering, or did Audi ever do this?
Badge engineering. Or worse, a clueless body shop put them in the
wrong place after repairs.
-Ti
2003 A4 1.8T multitronic
2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp
1984 5000S turbo
1980 4000 2.0 5-sp
--
/// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik
/// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
/// ti at amb.org
////// http://www.amb.org/ti/
///
--__--__--
Message: 4
From: "j fizz" <iin10ded at hotmail.com>
To: rdeutsch at sk.sympatico.ca, benwalker at direcway.com
Cc: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: RE: Febreeze NOT good for Audi
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 17:17:29 +0000
rob+ben,
i thought i would chime in that i was asking around [list, upholsery shops]
about redoing my headliner [88 90] and i heard froma few sources that the
audi headliner [the fiberboard panel glued to the roof] is more or less
impossible to get off w/out deystroying it. i had a very well regarded
upholsterer who has done several audi/vw's tell me this.
i thought id pass it on as you may not want to try to take out the actual
board, unles youre willing to get a new one from the dealer [i can only
imagine what they charge..]
have fun,
jim
<<First remove the entire headliner (this might take a while but is
necessary). Once the headliner is out (and sunroof liner) rip off all
the old fabric and completely scrape off the fuzzy mess of foam without
damaging the headliner itself (I found that a fine wire or nylon brush
worked well). >>
_________________________________________________________________
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
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--__--__--
Message: 5
Reply-To: "TT" <wfo16v at earthlink.net>
From: "TT" <wfo16v at earthlink.net>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Subject: Heated seat question
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 09:41:03 -0800
I have the old style, non-temp adjustable heated seats. They simply have an on/off rocker and shut
off when the surface of the seat reaches a certain temp. Really a tease ;-).
Could I go about hooking up later model heat temp controls? The element in the seat can't be any
different, right? I would greatly appreciate any advice or insight!
Thank you
--__--__--
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 12:51:27 -0500
To: "j fizz" <iin10ded at hotmail.com>, rdeutsch at sk.sympatico.ca,
benwalker at direcway.com
From: Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com>
Subject: RE: Febreeze NOT good for Audi
Cc: quattro at audifans.com
At 05:17 PM 12/19/2002 +0000, j fizz wrote:
>rob+ben,
>
>i thought i would chime in that i was asking around [list, upholsery shops]
>about redoing my headliner [88 90] and i heard froma few sources that the
>audi headliner [the fiberboard panel glued to the roof] is more or less
>impossible to get off w/out deystroying it. i had a very well regarded
>upholsterer who has done several audi/vw's tell me this.
>
>i thought id pass it on as you may not want to try to take out the actual
>board, unles youre willing to get a new one from the dealer [i can only
>imagine what they charge..]
Bentley description of removal procedure describes taking off things like
light fixtures, grabbars, window trims, etc., and then says to cut the
headboard into several sections.
I've read here about buying a new headboard from the dealer for not too bad
a cost.
--__--__--
Message: 7
From: "RM" <waves at epix.net>
To: "Quattro List" <quattro at audifans.com>
Subject: FS: 1984 4000q
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 12:54:54 -0500
I got a call today on a car that i'm not interested in. It is a 1984 4kq
located in Reading Pa. I took a quick peek and it has minor, but repairable
crash damage to the passengers side front. The car hasn't been run in a year
or so due to a possibly failing clutch. Otherwise it is complete and
restorable. I don't have a price, but a few hundred $$$ should make it sell.
Call Thomas Nally at 610.372.3200
Rolf
--__--__--
Message: 8
From: "Dave Glubrecht" <daveglu at hotmail.com>
To: "Tim Leonard" <nard1 at voyager.net>,
"Christopher Gharibo" <cgharibo at usa.net>,
"*Quattro List" <quattro at audifans.com>,
"20V List" <audi20v at rennlist.org>
Subject: Re: Parking on an incline
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 10:29:55 -0800
I would argue that it shouldn't make a difference as the oil pump shouldn't
loose prime, but since the pump is on the front of the engine it will have
to lift the oil less if the nose is down.
Dave G
> Nose up. Pickup is in rear of pan which is also the deeper part of pan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christopher Gharibo" <cgharibo at usa.net>
> To: "*Quattro List" <quattro at audifans.com>; "20V List"
> <audi20v at rennlist.org>
> Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 5:24 PM
> Subject: Parking on an incline
>
>
> > I have recently relocated to an area where I have to park '91 20V Coupe
on
> a
> > steep 35-40 degree incline. There is some valve clatter when I start the
> car
> > up that persists longer than usual.
> >
> > Therefore, I was wondering, for those that know the anatomy of the
engine,
> oil
> > pan/pump, etc, as to whether if it is better to park the car with nose
> down or
> > nose up to provide the best lubrication on start up.
> >
> > Or does it matter at all?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
> >
> >
> > This e-mail, including any attachments, may contain information that is
> > protected by law as privileged and confidential, and is transmitted for
> the
> > sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended
recipient,
> you
> > are hereby notified that any use, dissemination, copying or retention of
> this
> > e-mail or the information contained herein is strictly prohibited. If
you
> have
> > received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by
> reply
> > e-mail or telephone, permanently delete this e-mail from your computer
> system
> > and return the original message and all copies to the sender by mail.
> Thank
> > you.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--__--__--
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 13:01:40 -0600 (CST)
From: Robert Deis <rdeis at io.com>
To: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: RE: Door handle help?
On Tue, 10 Dec 2002, Nate Beck wrote:
> > Broke the plastic soecket parts of the ball and socket joint between
> > the
> > door handle and the connecting rods down to the latch.
> > Where can I find new replacements?
> I went to the dealer for mine, it was like .98
> Part number
> 433 839 821 B
That turns out to be the other end according to my dealer. The socket
that clips onto the ball joint on the handle he says isn't available
seperately- $50 for both of them in one door.
I went to the hobby shop and got them instead- 4.7mm ball sockets used in
R/C car suspensions. $7 for a handful. (-:
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rob Deis "Let the people know beforehand what the law
MiB3347 is and what they are to expect."
rdeis at io.com -- 18th Congress, Rec. 75
--__--__--
Message: 10
From: "scott thomas" <scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:16:17 -0500
To: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: christmasexhaust stud r&r /torque for head bolts?
Well, looks like I'll be using the thick washers underneath the
shouldered nuts :)
Next question, I don't want to do this job again and am afraid of the
bolts loosening. Do I need blue loctite for the nuts? I'm definately
not going to use the red on the studs, as per another's
recommendation.
Too bad the entire job (with new head and turbo and oil lines) was
done just before I got the car. To make it easy, I might just pull
one of the mc1 heads out of my storage unit, along with one of my
uncracked exhaust manifolds and build them up to be ready. I just
need to swap the cams and the intake manifold. Any cons in swapping
the cams, but not the bearings? While I'm there, I'll swap the
lifters out of the head that's on the car (known good) to the
replacement. The replacement doesn't have too many miles, but just
want to be sure.
Torque specs for the head bolts are needed, too. I'll go in stages,
too.
A funny conversation with Rod @TPC yesterday:
So Rod, what do you drive? I had an 87.5 Coupe, but I didn't have
enough time to drive it anymore. We had a chuckle about the old Audis
being the only cars you don't have enough time to drive because of
things like this that come up :)
The Official Dream Theater Site - http://www.dreamtheater.net/
___________________________________________________________
Get your own Web-based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com
--__--__--
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:19:45 -0500
From: Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>
Reply-To: human747 at attbi.com
Organization: HUMAN Speakers
To: Christopher Gharibo <cgharibo at usa.net>
Cc: *Quattro List <quattro at audifans.com>,
20V List <audi20v at rennlist.org>
Subject: Re: Parking on an incline
> I would argue that it shouldn't make a difference as the oil pump shouldn't
> loose prime, but since the pump is on the front of the engine it will have
> to lift the oil less if the nose is down.
> > Nose up. Pickup is in rear of pan which is also the deeper part of pan.
Perhaps Chris can try it both ways a few times and report back on
whether there is a difference in the time the valve lifters make their
dubious caltter?
> > > I have recently relocated to an area where I have to park '91 20V Coupe
> on
> > a
> > > steep 35-40 degree incline. There is some valve clatter when I start the
> > car
> > > up that persists longer than usual.
> > >
> > > Therefore, I was wondering, for those that know the anatomy of the
> engine,
> > oil
> > > pan/pump, etc, as to whether if it is better to park the car with nose
> > down or
> > > nose up to provide the best lubrication on start up.
> > >
> > > Or does it matter at all?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Chris
--
Huw Powell
http://www.humanspeakers.com/
http://www.humanthoughts.org/
--__--__--
Message: 12
From: "scott thomas" <scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:25:19 -0500
To: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: broken stud removal
Oh yeah, I have at least one broken exhaust stud. Just drill, retap,
and install the replacement stud, or do I have to drill it oversize
to accept a heli coil?
The Official Dream Theater Site - http://www.dreamtheater.net/
___________________________________________________________
Get your own Web-based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com
--__--__--
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:34:25 -0500
From: Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>
Reply-To: human747 at attbi.com
Organization: HUMAN Speakers
To: scott thomas <scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com>
Cc: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: Re: christmasexhaust stud r&r /torque for head bolts?
> Well, looks like I'll be using the thick washers underneath the
> shouldered nuts :)
>
> Next question, I don't want to do this job again and am afraid of the
> bolts loosening. Do I need blue loctite for the nuts? I'm definately
> not going to use the red on the studs, as per another's
> recommendation.
We used red loctite (I think, yeah, it looked like blood...) on
Brendan's, although I suspect these compounds probably don't last long
under those conditions. I haven't heard of any adverse effects, but
this also wasn't a turbo application.
> Too bad the entire job (with new head and turbo and oil lines) was
> done just before I got the car. To make it easy, I might just pull
> one of the mc1 heads out of my storage unit, along with one of my
> uncracked exhaust manifolds and build them up to be ready. I just
> need to swap the cams and the intake manifold. Any cons in swapping
> the cams, but not the bearings?
Do not swap the bearings. They are line bored on the head, and are not
interchangeable, and use them in the same location they were in
originally. The cams are.
--
Huw Powell
http://www.humanspeakers.com/
http://www.humanthoughts.org/
--__--__--
Message: 14
From: CTDiesel at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:56:51 EST
Subject: Cold Start Devices
To: quattro at audifans.com
On an 87 4kq can someone tell me which device or decvices are responsible for
enrichening the mixture during cold start? Besides the Cold Start Valve
which only is active for a few seconds.
Thanks
DJ
--__--__--
Message: 15
From: Ti Kan <ti at amb.org>
Subject: Re: Cold Start Devices
To: CTDiesel at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 12:19:54 -0800 (PST)
Cc: quattro at audifans.com
CTDiesel at aol.com writes:
> On an 87 4kq can someone tell me which device or decvices are responsible for
> enrichening the mixture during cold start? Besides the Cold Start Valve
> which only is active for a few seconds.
With CIS-E (which is what the 87 4Kq has), the only cold start aid is the
CSV. After start, cold running enrichment is provided by the differential
pressure regulator, under ECU control.
-Ti
2003 A4 1.8T multitronic
2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp
1984 5000S turbo
1980 4000 2.0 5-sp
--
/// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik
/// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA
/// ti at amb.org
////// http://www.amb.org/ti/
///
--__--__--
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 15:23:12 -0500
From: Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com>
Reply-To: human747 at attbi.com
Organization: HUMAN Speakers
To: CTDiesel at aol.com
Cc: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: Re: Cold Start Devices
> On an 87 4kq can someone tell me which device or decvices are responsible for
> enrichening the mixture during cold start? Besides the Cold Start Valve
> which only is active for a few seconds.
The thermo sender on the bottom of the top radiator hose flange tells
the computer next to the glovebox that the engine is cold (or warm, or
hot), and the computer responds by 1. ignoring the OXS signal until it
is warm and 2. increasing the current to the control pressure actuator
which is the little grey thing mounted on the front of the fuel
distributor.
Is it also time for the annual reminder to check those intake manifold
grounds? The computer depends on them for proper function...
--
Huw Powell
http://www.humanspeakers.com/
http://www.humanthoughts.org/
--__--__--
Message: 17
From: "R Mangas" <porter_dog at hotmail.com>
To: scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com, quattro at audifans.com
Subject: Re: broken stud removal
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 15:38:10 -0500
If you can get it out and the threads are clean, I wouldn't helicoil. RE:
loctite, neither of the options you mentioned (red/blue) will hold up under
exhaust manifold heat. Use those ovaled nuts, torque them down, leave them
alone, and hope for the best. If you're _really_ scaredy you could safety
wire them, but that's a hard job.
$0.02,
Robert
>From: "scott thomas" <scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com>
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>Subject: broken stud removal
>Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:25:19 -0500
>
>Oh yeah, I have at least one broken exhaust stud. Just drill, retap,
>and install the replacement stud, or do I have to drill it oversize
>to accept a heli coil?
>
>
>
>The Official Dream Theater Site - http://www.dreamtheater.net/
>___________________________________________________________
>Get your own Web-based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com
_________________________________________________________________
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
--__--__--
Message: 18
From: CTDiesel at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 15:47:31 EST
Subject: Re: Cold Start Devices
To: human747 at attbi.com, ti at amb.org
Cc: quattro at audifans.com
Which one of these are for the cold start signal to the control pressure
actuator that is mounted to the bottom of the radiator flange upper hose?
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/C602012900BOS.JPG
or
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/C401012908BOS.JPG
What is each of them for also?
Thanks
DJ
--__--__--
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 16:03:55 -0500
To: "scott thomas" <scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com>, quattro at audifans.com
From: Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com>
Subject: Re: broken stud removal
At 02:25 PM 12/19/2002 -0500, scott thomas wrote:
>Oh yeah, I have at least one broken exhaust stud. Just drill, retap,
>and install the replacement stud, or do I have to drill it oversize
>to accept a heli coil?
You might want to try a left-handed drill bit (provided your drill
reverses). Use one a little smaller than the diameter of the unthreaded
part of the stud and the drilling action frequently loosens the stud enough
it comes out. Then you might want a thread chaser, rather than a tap, to
clean up the corrosion.
--__--__--
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