4000q tie rods and ends

[james accordino]

The only way to avoid the alignment shop is EXACT, and
I mean EXACT duplication of what's on the car now.
I'm assuming the current alignment is good BTW.  There
are 2 ways to do this I know of.  One is thread count.
 Assuming the old and new parts are EXACTLY the same
length and if they're OEM the chances are very good
they will be.  When you disassemble it count the
number of full turns and also note the orientation at
beginning and end.  Then EXACTLY duplicate that in
reverse.  The other method involves measuring.  Again
the #'s need to be exact or you'll be wasting your
time.  Pick a spot to measure from on each end that
you can EXACTLY duplicate.  The threaded end of the
outer joint is NOT a good place, as it moves all
around.  I like EXACT center to center on the joints.
Mark the centers if this helps.  You could use a
scratch awl or some type of marker.  If you are
careful you can pull it off.  BTDT x many.

Jim Accordino
ps-did I mention you needed to be exacting in your
measurements?

--- George Nimmer <george164 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> --
> --
> [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
> I'm about to replace both rear tie rods on my
> girlfriends 1984 4000q
> (both are rusted beyond belief and the rear wheels
> need to be aligned to
> pass inspection.  doh!), and the tie rod ends on the
> front of my 1985
> 4000q.  I'm open to any helpful tips or pointers
> from those who've done
> either of these before!
>
> After replacing the rear tie rods on the '84 it will
> need to be
> aligned.  Will the front of my '85 need to be
> aligned after replacing
> just the ends?


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