JB weld (was In-situ flywheel timing pin replacement)

[Bob]

Once its cured, it wont creep. That stuff is amazing!

R Mangas wrote:

>
>
>
> James might well be right about JB weld and creep, but FWIW the specs say
> it's good to 600F!  I love that stuff :)
>
> Robert
>
>
>
>
>> From: <James at ringsperformance.com>
>> To: "Alan Kramer" <ackramer at hotmail.com>, <quattro at audifans.com>
>> Subject: Re: In-situ flywheel timing pin replacement
>> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 22:45:10 -0700
>>
>> Haudi and happy holidays to all.
>>
>> How about drilling a coaxial hole from the front and driving it out
>> with a
>> drift? Or threading the hole and screwing it out. Any polymer-based
>> material (epoxy, JB weld, etc) will likely suffer too much creep
>> under the
>> amazing g loads and temps inside the bell housing.
>>
>> cu, James Marriott
>> '87 4kq (alias "late-B2 90q") with rare ersatz NG engine, 184k, being
>> restored from rear-end total loss
>> '89 200q (MC1, ProconTen/no bag, 1.8 blah blah), 142k, already been
>> un-totaled
>> Boise, ID, USA     http://www.webpak.net/~marriott/
>> www.ringsperformance.com
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Alan Kramer" <ackramer at hotmail.com>
>> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
>> Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 7:15 AM
>> Subject: In-situ flywheel timing pin replacement
>>
>>
>> > I've got a need for a creative solution here...   Have a car with a
>> timing
>> > pin that's now only 5mm long.  It should be 12mm.  Problem is that
>> it no
>> > longer passes in front of the crank position sensor so the CPS no
>> longer
>> > picks it up.
>> >
>> > I'd like to fix this w/o pulling the tranny.  I have decent access
>> to it
>> > through the starter hole.
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU=
>
> http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_addphotos_3mf
>
>
>