pics of type 44 engine bay (same car in donut video)

[auditude at neta.com]

Yuck, 6.5:1.  Was is the AAN, something like 9.3:1!  In that case,
I'll look into custom pistons.

All the more reason to go 20v, since standalone efi and custom
pistons can both be done to a 10v, but "enable" one to go 20v for
just about the same cost (not including the extra head, or the
considerable manifolds expense).

The 20v head would help with spool up somewhat, wouldn't it?  So
that a 10vt with a given compression ratio would be more of an off-
boost dog than a 20vt of the same c/r?

I asked about this recently, and a response was that the 1950 rpm
boost onset/torque curve of the '91 200q20v was due to the
combination of the 20v head and K24 turbo.

I suppose the volumetric efficiency of the 20v is better than the 10v,
along the same lines as the discussion about the modified K24
being used on the 1.8t cars with unusually high quoted output
levels?

I may need some different 20vt parts, such as a crank pulley in
particular.  The water pump and idler pulley, if any, I'll buy new.
Some kind of shop manual would be nice too.  Anyone got this
stuff for sale or donation? <g>

Radim's 5kt20v is a daily driver as well, afaik.

Ken

On 12 Feb 2002, at 14:33, JShadzi at aol.com wrote:

> Hmm, if that is the case, 7A head with MC1 bottom end, he is barely
> pushing 6:1 compression, and MC2 would get you to about 6.5: 1.  Must
> be a real beast off boost  =)
>
> Javad
>
> In a message dated Tue, 12 Feb 2002  1:05:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> auditude at neta.com writes:
>
> > Yeah, that car has an MC-1 bottom end with a 7A head.  I've been
> > having some little discussions with Radim the past few weeks.
> >
> > So, on that note, since I know of a running example of such a
> > configuration, and you guys are talking about his car, I went ahead
> > and ordered a 7A head myself.  Someday, I'll "slap" it on my 4kstq
> > project with efi.  I won't let it get in the way of the 10vt stage
> > however, then I'll never get done!