pics of type 44 engine bay (same car in donut video)

[JShadzi at aol.com]

<< Yuck, 6.5:1.  Was is the AAN, something like 9.3:1!  In that case,
 I'll look into custom pistons.

 All the more reason to go 20v, since standalone efi and custom
 pistons can both be done to a 10v, but "enable" one to go 20v for
 just about the same cost (not including the extra head, or the
 considerable manifolds expense).>>

Yup, that is my reasoning, since I need custom rods and pistons anyway, why
not build them around a stroker crank?

<< The 20v head would help with spool up somewhat, wouldn't it?  So
 that a 10vt with a given compression ratio would be more of an off-
 boost dog than a 20vt of the same c/r?  >>

Hmm, I don't know about that, if velocity in the ports is a factor, the 10v
may have the advantage at lower rpm, where the 20v makes up for it in the
upper mid and high end.  I'd be interested to hear opinios though, I'd bet on
the 10v for low end response, same goes for the VW 8 and 16v motors.

<< I asked about this recently, and a response was that the 1950 rpm
 boost onset/torque curve of the '91 200q20v was due to the
 combination of the 20v head and K24 turbo.>>

Well, that is the factor, with the right turbo you can change completely the
character of a motor.  If you didn't know, you'd swear that I have some crazy
multivalve motor in my 80, the power band is very strong in the 4k to 6.5k
range, all because of the turbo.  That is the beauty of the 20v turbo motors,
you can see the difference in low end just driving a 7A Coupe, a dog below 3K.

 <>

Yes, but the efficiency comes into play at higher rpm's

<< I may need some different 20vt parts, such as a crank pulley in
 particular.  The water pump and idler pulley, if any, I'll buy new.
 Some kind of shop manual would be nice too.  Anyone got this
 stuff for sale or donation? >>

Already got all mine  ;)

<< Radim's 5kt20v is a daily driver as well, afaik.>>

That doesn't say much, I'd drive an IMSA GTO car to work everyday if they let
me...
Javad