Help - Replacing hydraulic tappets/lifters

[QSHIPQ at aol.com]

This thread needs some clarification.  On a 10vt 200q (all 10v audi motors in
fact), you *cannot* change the lifters without removing the gear wheel,
because the rear cover will prevent you from doing so.  You could cut the
cover I suppose, but the cam bolt isn't that difficult.  Given this is a UK
post, I'm sure Paul is referencing the 3B equipped 89 200tq available in
europe only.  If so, YES you *can* change the lifters with the cam gear on,
but the old cam seal you didn't remove either will almost certainly leak on
reinstall.  For the extra 2 minutes the cam gear takes, why risk it?  Just to
complete the thinking, you *CANNOT* change lifters in the AAN/RS2 derivatives
of the 20vt motor, because you will break the cam position sensor trying to
remove the cam with gear.

Other things to watch/do:  Replace the cam chain when doing lifters, make
doubly sure you have the cams at TDC, with the new chain, the cams do shift
when settling into the journals (20v, turbo and n/a, v8).  Also, if you are
leaving the distributor in place during this procedure (10v-t and n/a, 3B,
7A), make sure you mate the distributor gear as you lower the rearmost
journal on the intake cam.  If the distributor gear jams the cam drive gear,
you will have nasty ticking noises for a long time.

And a duly noted chuckle for the 30minute bogey time before startup to allow
lifters to settle - per Bentley.  That's a really quick bogey time for any
audi lifter finish work.

HTH and clarifies

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
Paul writes:
>I think the general concencus of opinion seems to be that although you
canget >away without removing the gear wheel, you are better off removing it
(ifyou're strong >enough!) and you will probably want to replace the front
camseal anyway.