Help - Replacing hydraulic tappets/lifters

[Paul Heneghan]

Thanks for the reply Scott

I seem to have started a thread on "guess what Paul's engine is"!  The
original post identified it, but the replies trimmed that bit off.  In fact
the car is a 1989 Audi 100 2.2E Avant with a KU engine - capacity 2226cc.
Mihnea gets first prize - a complete set of broken Audi door handles!

Yes, I do plan on doing the cam seal and the cam belt and the water pump at
the same time.  I need to check to see if the engine has a cam idler wheel
as well because the archives warn that this is a part which often seizes.

Should I wait longer than 30 minutes for the lifters to drain?  I plan on
turning the engine over by hand first of all just in case valves want to
meet pistons.

Paul

>From: QSHIPQ at aol.com QSHIPQ at aol.com
>Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:58:15 EST
>
>This thread needs some clarification.  On a 10vt 200q (all 10v audi motors
in
>fact), you *cannot* change the lifters without removing the gear wheel,
>because the rear cover will prevent you from doing so.  You could cut the
>cover I suppose, but the cam bolt isn't that difficult.  Given this is a UK
>post, I'm sure Paul is referencing the 3B equipped 89 200tq available in
>europe only.  If so, YES you *can* change the lifters with the cam gear on,
>but the old cam seal you didn't remove either will almost certainly leak on
>reinstall.  For the extra 2 minutes the cam gear takes, why risk it?  Just
to
>complete the thinking, you *CANNOT* change lifters in the AAN/RS2
derivatives
>of the 20vt motor, because you will break the cam position sensor trying to
>remove the cam with gear.