More on lifters

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>Thanks for the reply ScottI seem to have started a thread on "guess what
Paul's >engine is"!  Theoriginal post identified it, but the replies trimmed
that bit off.  In >factthe car is a 1989 Audi 100 2.2E Avant with a KU engine
- capacity >2226cc.Mihnea gets first prize - a complete set of broken Audi
door handles!Yes, I >do plan on doing the cam seal and the cam belt and the
water pump atthe same >time.  I need to check to see if the engine has a cam
idler wheelas well because the >archives warn that this is a part which often
seizes.Should I wait longer than 30 >minutes for the lifters to drain?  I
plan onturning the engine over by hand first of all >just in case valves want
tomeet pistons.Paul

Paul, you're welcome.  Yes you do have a cam belt idler pulley.  Once you put
the lifters in, it will take you 30 minutes to put everything back together
anyway.  Doing the belt at the same time as the lifters really isn't
necessary, they aren't really related service concepts, other than the belt
has to come off the cam gear only during lifter R&R.  In doing both
procedures together, I'd do the belt first.  As a rule, before I remove the
belt from the cam gear or the crank gear, make sure both the cam gear bolt
and the crank bolt are loosened (respective order), since sometimes the
effort (and placement of the balancer locking tool) required can move you off
TDC orientation easily.  Loosen the crank bolt, then the cam bolt, realign
TDC, then remove the belt and gears.  Do the lifters next, install everything
including the cam cover (take notice of woodruff key slot orientation vs TDC
~ 1:30 position facing motor).  The warnings on the distributor mating of my
earlier post should be heeded here as well.

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning