[urq] Help - Replacing hydraulic tappets/lifters

[Phil Payne]

> > Next time, complete the redundancy guys.  If it's 10v car, then
cam gear has
> > to come off to do lifters.

> Scott, I'm gonna have to disagree with you here, I do it
> all the time with the cam gear on, I just tilt the cam up
> and have full acess to all the lifters, BTDT too many times
> to count.

I used to do it this way, but I bought a 3036 direct from Matra and a
KD open-ended 19mm Crowfoot from Hayways that effectively gives
me an open-ended torque wrench (there's no clearance for a
conventional torque wrench and socket on that bolt, at least in an
ur-quattro) and so I routinely take the cam gear off and change the
oil seal.

The tools I use now are pictured in
http://www.isham-research.com/quattro/cam_gear.html - this is the only
way I know to get a torque wrench onto a cam gear bolt with both the
engine and the ur-quattro's auxiliary radiator in place.  The 3036
doesn't lock with the engine at TDC - you have to allow the engine to
rotate so the 3036 takes up the load against the alternator mount, and
then rotate everything back to TDC before actually removing the cam
belt and gear.  You use the 3036 for this - that's why it has such a
long handle.  When reassembling, the reverse procedure is followed.

But I've done a few with the cam gear on - it's absolutely no problem
with the MB/1B/MC engines.  "Walking" the belt off the cam gear is
usually no problem, and with the front cam bearing cap off the seal
lifts quite easily.  With the long wrench pictured, jiggling the cam
gear so that even a quite tight belt cam be walked back on is not
difficult.

There are occasions when I wonder quite seriously whether Scott has
ever touched one of these cars.  He seems very short on real world
experience.

--
  Phil Payne
  http://www.isham-research.com/quattro
  +44 7785 302 803
  +49 173 6242039