[urq] Help - Replacing hydraulic tappets/lifters

[QSHIPQ at aol.com]

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[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
If you don't have a belt, chances are you already had valves hit pistons
Phil.  IF you have any belt at all, you are better off leaving it on, if you
think about your "11 teeth" scenario, if you "slip" on removal of the cam
bolt, you just put the cam/crank back closer to TDC.  When belts are broken
or skipped teeth, the best thing to do is to manually move the cam gear thru
an arc until you feel the piston interference, then you know the limit of the
arc travel.

My only reason for posting is that your "tool slip caution" implies the belt
is off already in a cam gear bolt removal.  That's a no-no, in the skpped
teeth, broken belt scenarios the no-no already happened.  If you meant to
confine your "caution" to those with slipped or broken belts on interference
motors, you should say so.  Thinking thru your caution, I would leave the
belt on with a slipped belt too, (going ccw) it's safer than pulling the belt
off.

Find TDC, lock cam gear, loosen bolt, find TDC, remove belt, remove bolt,
remove gear.
Find TDC, lock crank bear, loosen bolt, find TDC, remove belt, remove bolt,
remove gear.


Scott J


In a message dated 1/12/02 8:44:03 AM Central Standard Time,
quattro at isham-research.com writes:


In general I agree - you'll note the instructions on my head removal
page have done it this way for at least four years.  The belt is not
enough on its own, though.  Quite often you don't have a belt, and I
swapped one last week (1B engine) where the crank oil seal had gone
and the belt had jumped 11 teeth.