Audi/VW I-5 Engine rebuild TOOL list - What I'd need?

[JShadzi at aol.com]

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[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
Ok, you say "not good enough", but I have not even specified the procedure I
use, which looking back,  I should have known otherwise everyone will assume
I'm using a 1/4" drive stubby wrench working at the local mokey
lube...obviously.

I use a 22" long 1/2" breaker bar, no extension typically, or the shortest
possible if the core support is still in place, and slide a 3' section of 1"
hydraulic pipe over about 10" of the breaker bar.  I do the initial
tightening with a firm 2 feet on the ground, pulling towards my body.  When
that has gone all the way, I make the bar level with the ground, and stand on
the end of the bar until there is no more tightening.

My point was that it isn't your out of the recipie 480Nm or whatever, its
plenty tight, no need for further accuracy if you use the above method.

Javad

In a message dated 7/1/2002 3:28:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
human747 at attbi.com writes:


>
> > It should be as tight as you can physically get it using your own
> > strength/body weight...I wouldn't get too hung up about exact torque
> > specifications with this fastener.
>
> not good enough.  If I were to use my 18" or so breaker bar, the *most*
> torque I'm gonna get is about 225 ft-lbs... that's  all of my weight
> times the 1.5 foot long bar, and that is difficult to do.
>
> use a 4 foot pipe or so on your breaker bar and put 150 pounds or so of
> body weight on the last foot of the pipe, then you'll be in the 400-500
> foot pound vicinity, and all will be well.
>
> the key addition to the above comment is the amount of leverage you use
> to "amplify" your body weight/strength to the appropriate torque.
>