4K Timing Belt Process

[Huw Powell]

> I made the mistake of starting in on the timing belt/water pump replacement
> on my wife's 4Kq
>
> Is there an illustrated step-by-step for the 4K engine?

not really.  it's a pity, too.

> What all do you take off the front?  I got the two grille sections out
> (upper and lower).  Still not much maneuvering room.

Removing the bumper can help, but is not necessary.  Either three
bolts/side at the back of the mounting "shocks" or two on the front
behind the reflectors.

> When I put the 2084 tool in place, I no longer could see the "0" on the
> flywheel in the window in the clutch housing.  In order to get the 2084 on
> the pulley I had to turn the pulley some to align the slot in the 2084 with
> the projection inside the pulley, and this took me off the "0" mark.

It's ok.  you undo/redo the big bolt with the belt in place and
everything timed already.

>
> So I have the pulley off, I've taken the timing belt pulley off the back of
> the big pulley.  I can't seem to get it slid all the way back on.  Does it
> get pressed to maximum proper location by the tightening of the pulley bolt
> after I get the belt in place?

Um, I don;t kow why you dismantled it, if that's what you did... more
sorta below, when I try to describe the job.  Why have none of us done
thi son our web sites?  because we never want to think about it again...

> I can't get the idler pulley off.  I've removed the small bolt and pried
> really vigorously, but it doesn't want to budge.  It can't possibly require
> a puller?????

yes, but people improvise with electricla boxes, PVC pipe, and suchlike.

> Do I have to remove the cam pulley?  I don't see how else I can get the
> stupid piece of tin out behind the pulleys to get the water pump out.  And
> I can't budge the water pump.  I've removed one bolt and don't see the
> second one, so I presume it's behind the tin????

easier with cam pulley off.  Lock it in place to loosen the bolt, don;t
lose the woodruff key...

> I've already exhausted my entire expletive reserve on this project and I'm
> not even half way.

OK, I know I'll forget something, so feel free to chime in, everyone!

undo battery ground strap (always a good idea)
take off the grills.
loosen the alt, PS, and AC brackets and remove their belts.  install new
ones upon ressaembly.
remove the front covers (upper and lower)
set up your 2084 and bust the crank bolt loose.  remove the bolt, the
pulley should come off.
clean the crank threads, if you can, and clean the bolt threads.
lock the cam pulley and loosen its bolt
remove pulley, guard woodruff key carefully
clean the bolt threads
remove idler bolt, pull idler pulley steadily, smoothly forward - use
makeshift tool if necessary.
undo 3-4 bolts and remove back cover
undo three bolts holding water pump - one is loose already, a PS pump
bracket bolt.
replace crank seal while you are in there.  cam seal not so important,
it's easy to get to anyway.
clean front of block where water pump mounts
(if you want to flush coolant, do thermostat, etc. do it now)
grease new pump o-ring, place pump on block, finger tighten bolts, so
it's free to swing.
replace rear cover
put cam pulley back on, finger tighten bolt
install new idler pulley per Bentley
with new timing belt wrapped around its pulley, slide harmonic
balancer/puller assembly back in place
turn cam and crank to TDC (do gently and slowly on interference engines,
the 4kq is not one)
thread timing belt around pump, idler and cam pulley
at this point you can lock the cam pulley and tighten its bolt

there's a bit of fudging here - you don;t really want to tighten
everything up and discover you are off a tooth from TDC, but you gotta
tighten things eventually!  I would say, pull pump tight on timing belt,
check for TDC, if it's all good, turn engine to appropriate place, lock
crank and reinstall cleaned crank pulley bolt.  Torque like hell - 450
ft lbs, is 150 pounds of weight on a 3 foot lever arm.  This can break
some 1/2" sockets, be careful.

Now gently tightnet he belt again with the water pump, when it is "just
right" by bentley (easy to bend 90 degrees), tighten the bolts that are
not the PS pump bracket bolt.

at this point you can fill up with coolant if you lost a lot or flushed
it.

technically, the engine will run now, though I'd tighten that PS bracket
bolt if you do try it.  This is a good time for one more TDC check, and
a careful rotation of the engine via crank pulley and big
socket/ratchet.

replace the covers, try to get every bolt as one or two might leak oil
from the pump if they are loose or missing.
install three new accessory belts, and tension, be sure to tighten all
adjusting bolts.

Try to look over everything again - missing bolts?  leftovers?
test fire engine.  nothing?  replace battery ground strap.
test again.  turn right off.  if it seems ok, run til warm and top up
coolant as it burps.
replace grilles, and bumper if you took it off.

cross your fingers that it all is working right and go wash up.

This list may be incomplete or out of order slightly.  personal
attitudes about technique may differ, but if I missed anything
important, please chime in!

--
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/

http://www.humanthoughts.org/