4K Timing Belt Process

[ricematthews]

Kneale:

Front bumper removal should not be necessary.

As for the idler pulley - I do recall needing to use a puller to remove
this.  Did you rent the whole tool kit or do you just have the tool to hold
the crank in place?  If you have the whole kit, there should be a special
puller in there to do the job.  It's not a traditional "jaw type" puller
from what I recall, but rather something that pushes against the pulley as
you thread it into the pulley mounting bolt hole.

WRT the cam gear, I do recall removing mine - then again I was doing lifters
all at the same time.  I can't remember if it was necessary to get the water
pump out, but I do remember fighting with the stamped steel shield that fits
behind the whole mess.

I don't think I referenced the "0" on the flywheel (I assume that this is
the TDC indicator) as I think there is also a mark on the crankshaft pulley.
If you are not on TDC, it's probably not a big problem if you are close.
Just don't move the crank or cam much when the timing belt is removed.  You
can move it slightly to line it up when you put it back together.  Removal
of the spark plugs (at least #1) makes this easier to do without causing
valve-piston contact as you won't be fighting compression.  A word to the
wise - check and recheck that the cam and crank TDC marks are lined up when
you put it back together.  Check it again when the timing belt is tensioned,
but before you put everything back together.

-Mark Rice


--
I made the mistake of starting in on the timing belt/water pump replacement
on my wife's 4Kq camping/fishing car after I discovered the simple rear
brake pads replacement on her V8 was going to take longer than planned
because one of the rotors had broken apart (the ring the pads grab was
separated from the part that gets bolted to the hub with the wheel.  Try to
find a replacement for an Audi V8 rear brake rotor in Northern Michigan).

Anyway, I looked in the Bentley for guidance and decided the only places
addressing some aspects were the section on preparing the engine for
removal (pgs. 10.18 & 10.19) and the section on reassembling the valve gear
(pgs. 15.13 & 15.14).

Is there an illustrated step-by-step for the 4K engine?

What all do you take off the front?  I got the two grille sections out
(upper and lower).  Still not much maneuvering room.

When I put the 2084 tool in place, I no longer could see the "0" on the
flywheel in the window in the clutch housing.  In order to get the 2084 on
the pulley I had to turn the pulley some to align the slot in the 2084 with
the projection inside the pulley, and this took me off the "0" mark.

So I have the pulley off, I've taken the timing belt pulley off the back of
the big pulley.  I can't seem to get it slid all the way back on.  Does it
get pressed to maximum proper location by the tightening of the pulley bolt
after I get the belt in place?

I can't get the idler pulley off.  I've removed the small bolt and pried
really vigorously, but it doesn't want to budge.  It can't possibly require
a puller?????  There's no fricking room behind the body tin and bumper to
manipulate a puller.  Do you usually have to take off the bumper too?

Do I have to remove the cam pulley?  I don't see how else I can get the
stupid piece of tin out behind the pulleys to get the water pump out.  And
I can't budge the water pump.  I've removed one bolt and don't see the
second one, so I presume it's behind the tin????

I've already exhausted my entire expletive reserve on this project and I'm
not even half way.