door handle
John Lagnese
jlagnese at massed.net
Mon Jul 8 20:18:06 EDT 2002
Hi,
Does anyone have an 83 4000 left rear door handle? Mine died, and there was a futile trip to the junkyard.
John
Maine
quattro-request at audifans.com wrote:
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>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re[2]: Kenwood Stereo in 5KCS problem (Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com)
> 2. FW: ignition coil ? was fuel pump? (Livolsi, Stephane)
> 3. Re:'91 200 20v wheels on '89 200? (Eyvind Spangen)
> 4. Re:Hydraulic Woes, AKA my first problem with my Audi. (Kneale Brownson)
> 5. 5kq center u-joint part number. (Joshua Van Tol)
> 6. Thread dies / nuts and bolts repairs Vol 1 #3630 (Suffolk GameServer LAN)
> 7. 5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip (Mike Veglia)
> 8. Re:5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip (JShadzi at aol.com)
> 9. RE:5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip (David.Ullrich at ferguson.com)
> 10. snap ring pliers? (WAUFX at aol.com)
> 11. Re:5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip (Mike Veglia)
> 12. Lighting upgrade (Robert Myers)
> 13. Re:5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip (JShadzi at aol.com)
> 14. RE:Lighting upgrade (David.Ullrich at ferguson.com)
> 15. RE:snap ring pliers? (Bernard Littau)
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:00:14 -0400
> From: Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com
> Subject: Re[2]: Kenwood Stereo in 5KCS problem
> To: spsherm at attglobal.net, quattro <quattro at audifans.com>,
> Ameer Antar <antar at attbi.com>
>
> On 7/7/2002 4:35 PM Ameer Antar <antar at attbi.com> wrote:
>
> >50mA is not even close to what is needed for an amplifier. Believe me, no
> >antenna lead is gonna run an amplifier, well maybe a 1/2W headphone amp!
>
> Are we talking about driving an amplifier from the antenna lead or are we
> talking about switching on an amplifier's turn-on circuit from the antenna
> lead?
>
> Clearly the amplifier needs more current than the antenna lead can supply,
> but the antenna might supply enough current to activate the amplifier's
> turn-on circuit. I always just run a wire for turn-on from the head unit to
> the amplifier.
>
> Eric Kissell
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 2
> From: "Livolsi, Stephane" <Stephane.Livolsi at investorsgroup.com>
> To: Audi Quattro List <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: FW: ignition coil ? was fuel pump?
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:11:14 -0500
>
> And therein lies one of the most valuable lessons of older Audi
> ownership....for me anyway....
> wiggle the wires before calling the tow truck....
> AND
> diagnose! diagnose! diagnose!
>
> A friend recently had his relatively new Mazda die on him while running
> 300kms from home. Had it towed to a shop and they quickly (too quickly, I
> might add) told him he needed a new fuel pump and he OK'd the work. Went to
> pick up his car and was told the new pump is in but "Gee, it still won't
> run" and we're still looking for the problem.
> Turns out that a spring on the timing belt tensioner let go and the timing
> belt had slipped. Apparently non-interference engine. Relatively easy fix,
> hell of a lot easier and less costly than dropping the gas tank (unlike our
> Audi's, the Mazda did not have an access hatch in the trunk)
>
> The stupidest thing, is that when they finally got around to a compression
> test, readings were way low in all cylinders. If they had done this
> earlier.....
>
> Car stops
> Do you have fuel? No?- Why not?
> Do you have spark? No? - Why not?
> Got compression? No? - Why not?
> Etc, etc....
>
> Stephane
>
> > ----------
> > From: Torbjorn Bergstrom[SMTP:torbjorn at WPI.EDU]
> > Sent: July 8, 2002 5:40 AM
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> > Cc: mrproton at hotmail.com
> > Subject: Re: ignition coil ? was fuel pump?
> >
> > Sound's like something that happened to me with my '85 GTi.
> >
> > Parked at a parking meter in Boston then realized that the next one still
> > had time on it. The car wouldn't start...
> >
> > Was towed to a garage and I took the bus home. They got ~$300 for
> > installing a new fuel pump and it worked fine for a couple of months.
> >
> > The next time it died at a stop light close enough to home to for AAA to
> > tow it there. I pulled the fuel pump and got a replacement under
> > warranty.
> >
> > The 3rd time it died about 2 months later AAA again towed it home but it
> > started right up the next morning. A little investigation showed that one
> > of the wires was bad and jiggling the harness would make it work or
> > not. replaced the wires and it worked again for years....
> >
> > I figure I could have saved the $300 plus bus fare if I jiggled the wires
> > the first time...
> >
> > Toby
> >
> > '90 90 (I call it a 180...)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: "wa b" <mrproton at hotmail.com>
> > To: quattro at audifans.com
> > Cc: bswann at worldnet.att.net
> > Subject: ignition coil ? was fuel pump?
> > Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 17:16:34 -0500
> >
> > hey,
> > well, I thought it might be the fuel pump, prolly not. Car has an
> > intermittent problem. I got 5 miles from home and it died, had it towed
> > home. Car was running fine then nothing, of course the next morning it
> > started right up. Now checking out the ignition system(thanks Ben) I find
> > that the ignition coil might be the problem. The primary resistance
> > measures within spec. The secondary measures wide open, or infinity,
> > between terminals 1 and 4 on the coil. Could that cause an intermittant
> > problem? Seems like it wouldnt run at all but I`ve been wrong before. I
> > didnt order a fuel pump but I did order a new coil. Am I on the right
> > track?, Thanks in Advance, tring to make a 550 mile trip to Louisiana
> > tomorrow.
> > Andrew `88 80q
> >
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 3
> From: Eyvind Spangen <eyvind.spangen at c2i.net>
> To: Andrew Shea <anshea at yahoo.com>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: '91 200 20v wheels on '89 200?
> Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 18:55:42 +0200
>
> On Mon, 8 Jul 2002 07:02:25 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:
>
> >Will 200 20v wheels (15x7.5 et35) and tires
> >(215/60/15) fit on a non fender flared '89 200q?
>
> No. They will rub the rear fenders.. Even a 205/60-15 on that wheel
> will rub in big bumps..
>
> --
> E. Spangen (uten penger)
> '90 Audi 200TQ 20v (uten skilter)
> '96 DBS Kilimanjaro (uten problemer)
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 13:07:31 -0400
> To: <david at mountaindome.com>, quattro at audifans.com
> From: Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com>
> Subject: Re: Hydraulic Woes, AKA my first problem with my Audi.
>
> --
> Sounds like you have both a poor bomb and a leak in the hydraulics system,
> David. I'd chase down the leak first. It's possible the pump is leaking
> and also failing to provide sufficient pressure to the bomb. However,
> you'd probably have evidence of a pump leak. If you're seeing no sign of
> leaks, you probably have a steering rack leak that generally drips onto a
> hot exhaust and disappears rather than leaving "signs".
>
> At 08:42 AM 07/08/2002 -0700, David Manz wrote:
>
> >Hello all,
> > Well I have been meaning to replace my timing belt this summer, but that
> > has been preempted by my hydraulic problem. Ever since I got my 1990 90
> > 20v. The brake (not e-brake) light would come on every so often for a
> > second or so. I thought that normal.About a month ago the power steering
> > got a little bit harder but still respectable. Two weeks ago I decided to
> > top of the resivoir. I used mineral fuild ( the right stuff) and topped
> > the very empty resivoir. That completly fixed my power steering problem.
> > It was right as rain again.
> > I drove the car all day. I let it sit over night, and the next day we
> > were back to square one. No power steering. Oh well I thought, I drove it
> > 2 hours to my weekday home( Moscow Idaho *sighs*) It sat there for a
> > week, they I tried to drive it home. I then learned I had no breaks. Well
> > Right when I first start the car the brakes BARELY work no peddle feel at
> > all. After ten minutes of the car running I get alomost all peddle feel
> > back and control back. When I stop the care and turn it off after I pump
> > the breaks 3 times I lose all peddle feel again.
> > Sooo I am asking you guys how to diagnose this problem. From what I
> > have read at 20v.org and other places; I fear that is my "bomb" am I
> > wrong in this. I would like to do the repairs this weekend so I need to
> > order the parts soon. I hear the parts connection sells a rebuilt one, is
> > that still true is that a good idea? and could this be anything else
> > other than the bomb?
> >Thanks much!
> >
> >
> >David Manz
> >1990 90 20v
> --
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 12:08:24 -0500
> To: ScottyCBoy at aol.com, knotnook at traverse.com,
> bernardl at acumenassociates.com, kbogach at comcast.net,
> sjensen at mindspring.com, quattro list <quattro at audifans.com>
> From: Joshua Van Tol <josh at spiny.com>
> Subject: 5kq center u-joint part number.
>
> A week or so ago, I posted to the list that I'd found a BWM part
> number that works as a replacement for the center driveshaft u-joint
> on a 5kq. I finally got the number from my friend, and here it is.
>
> Part # 33-21-1-205-310
>
> I'm assuming this is a BMW part number, and it fits an early bmw 2002
> rear half shaft application. As I recall, I paid about $70 for mine,
> which is steep, but it was available.
> --
> Joshua Van Tol -- josh at spiny.com
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 6
> From: "Suffolk GameServer LAN" <suffolk.associates at verizon.net>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: Thread dies / nuts and bolts repairs Vol 1 #3630
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 13:18:35 -0400
>
> I don't know where you live but Metric bolt/nut or some similar ending in
> Melrose, Mass (781) area code has all that stuff and takes credit cards too.
> They have dies, plastic bolt thread size cards etc...... Audi and metric
> nuts/bolts in different hardnesses...............
> Mail order too.
> -Scott in Boston
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: quattro-admin at audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin at audifans.com]On
>
> > The driver side strut has some ugly looking threads at the top. I
> > have been trying to find a thread die to clean them up a bit, but
> > nobody around town seems to have them that big. I did find out that
> > the threads are M14x1.5, which I discovered by finding the matching
> > bolt at a hardware store.
> >
> > Does anyone know a good/cheap place where I could find an individual
> > die in this size? I imagine mail order is what I'll end up doing.
> >
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 10:21:50 -0700
> From: Mike Veglia <msvphoto at pacbell.net>
> Subject: 5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip
> To: quattro at audifans.com
>
> Thanks again to all who offered radiators for my car. I wound up getting a
> good condition Modine all metal one at my local Pick-N-Pull, only to find
> that the shroud didn't fit (radiator was from an '84ish NA engine car). Hmm,
> TPC's listing only calls for one part number radiator in type 44s--so what
> to do? So, I go back to P-N-P to get the shroud off the car I got the
> radiator from--car was gone! What I wound up doing was I pulled a shroud
> like mine and did some, uh, modifications (read trimmed it down a little) to
> make it fit the metal radiator. Also, spent some time picking up some
> treasures for my 4kq so it was a good second P-N-P trip ;-)
>
> I was a bit concerned about the all metal radiator going in being slightly
> smaller (~1.5" of length) not having the same cooling capacity, but the
> overall size difference was pretty small. Anyway, the car is back together
> now. Running at exactly the same temps as ever on the dash gauge, not using
> any coolant. Water pump noises the car made when the plastic radiator tank
> split are gone. No apparent ill effects from overheating (I didn't overheat
> it badly at all, thankfully the radiator let go close to home). All is good
> and now I can get back to thinking about AC Compressor replacement and front
> suspension overhauls on my tq. FWIW, this was a sudden tank split failure in
> a ~50k mile and 4 year old AKG German radiator.
>
> Now for the tip. I found it odd that the "no coolant" warning never came on
> despite the coolant bottle being empty. Apparently Audi opted to use a N/O
> switch that closes contacts when coolant is empty. This means an open
> circuit defeats the functionality of this sensor. Combine that with the
> behavior of the coolant temp sensor when not immersed in coolant (will read
> pretty much normal on the dash gauge most of the time) and you have a recipe
> for disaster (which I narrowly avoided it turns out). When I had everything
> apart to replace the radiator one of the things I made a point of was to fix
> the low coolant detect (got a used overflow bottle/switch from P-N-P just in
> case). Turns out the wire going into the crimp connector_inside the plug_had
> corroded through and parted ways with the connector. Grabbed a new connector
> at P-N-P and spliced it on--problem solved. That connector is easily
> overlooked (what with being buried underneath the coolant overflow bottle),
> is very vulnerable (what with pointing straight up and having a nice little
> rubber boot to help keep the moisture trapped around the crimps to help the
> corrosion process), and really is your only really good early warning of
> cooling system problems prior to steam belching from under the hood. Next
> time you're flushing/changing coolant be sure to check that your low coolant
> detect on "autocheck" is working!
>
> Mike Veglia
> Motor Sport Visions Photography
> http://www.motorsportvisions.com
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 13:33:03 -0400
> From: JShadzi at aol.com
> To: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Mike Veglia), quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: 5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip
>
> Mike, do you mean that you're running water only? If so, your water pump d=
> ays are are numbered (a week or two at best), the pump uses the coolant for=
> lubrication, I recommend using at least a 20/80 split to ensure water pump=
> longevity, and a bottle or two of watter wetter (can be substituted for co=
> olant) BTDT a few times in the race cars.
>
> Javad
>
> "Running at exactly the same temps as ever on the dash gauge, not using
> any coolant"
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 9
> Subject: RE: 5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 13:42:32 -0400
> From: <David.Ullrich at ferguson.com>
> To: <JShadzi at aol.com>, <msvphoto at pacbell.net>, <quattro at audifans.com>
>
> How I read thatwas that it's not using up (loosing) any coolant.
>
> Dave
>
> Too Many Toys:
> 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T Tiptronic
> 1993 RX-7 R1
> 1987.5 Audi Coupe GT "Special Build" 2.3 - Anthracite Black
> 1985 Chevy Impala Interceptor
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JShadzi at aol.com [mailto:JShadzi at aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 1:33 PM
> To: Mike Veglia; quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: 5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip
>
> Mike, do you mean that you're running water only? If so, your water pump d=
> ays are are numbered (a week or two at best), the pump uses the coolant for=
> lubrication, I recommend using at least a 20/80 split to ensure water pump=
> longevity, and a bottle or two of watter wetter (can be substituted for co=
> olant) BTDT a few times in the race cars.
>
> Javad
>
> "Running at exactly the same temps as ever on the dash gauge, not using
> any coolant"
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 10
> From: WAUFX at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 13:59:29 EDT
> Subject: snap ring pliers?
> To: quattro at audifans.com
>
> Hey all-
>
> I need some snap ring pliers to do the shifter bushing on my 90q. I went to
> Home Depot, looking for Channelock tool #904 and my local one did not have
> it. Searching on Harbor Freight, I find snap ring pliers of the "external"
> and "internal" variety.
>
> I feel like a fool for asking, but what's the difference? The rings the
> pliers will be used on are the ring that goes around the shifter stick and
> the ring that hold my new door lock cylinder in place...advice?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Megan
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 11:05:20 -0700
> From: Mike Veglia <msvphoto at pacbell.net>
> Subject: Re: 5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip
> To: JShadzi at aol.com, quattro at audifans.com
>
> Oh no, not at all. What I meant by "not using any coolant" is no coolant
> leaks/consumption so far :) Sorry for the confusion.
>
> Mike Veglia
> Motor Sport Visions Photography
> http://www.motorsportvisions.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JShadzi at aol.com>
> To: "Mike Veglia" <msvphoto at pacbell.net>; <quattro at audifans.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 10:33 AM
> Subject: Re: 5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip
>
> > Mike, do you mean that you're running water only? If so, your water pump
> days are are numbered (a week or two at best), the pump uses the coolant for
> lubrication, I recommend using at least a 20/80 split to ensure water pump
> longevity, and a bottle or two of watter wetter (can be substituted for
> coolant) BTDT a few times in the race cars.
> >
> > Javad
> >
> > "Running at exactly the same temps as ever on the dash gauge, not using
> > any coolant"
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 14:09:03 -0400
> To: s-car-list at audifans.com, "Quattro list" <quattro at audifans.com>
> From: Robert Myers <robert at s-cars.org>
> Subject: Lighting upgrade
>
> Hi Y'all,
>
> Some while back I got a set of replacement dash lights for my instrument
> cluster ('95 S6 but that matters little - they are mostly all the same)
> from another list member (the Godfather if it matters). Two weeks ago, I
> _finally_ got around to swapping them into the car. These bulbs are
> significantly brighter than the stock bulbs. (2.0 watt vs. 1.2 or 1.1
> watts). This has made a _major_ improvement in the nighttime visibility
> for the various instruments in the instrument cluster.
>
> The replacement process is easy. Pull the instrument cluster, remove the
> old bulbs (1/4 turn CCW and lift out), replace them with new bulbs (drop in
> and fasten 1/4 turn CW), put the instrument cluster back in the car. The
> whole process took perhaps 25-30 minutes - mostly because my electric
> screwdriver was elsewhere and I had to use an old fashioned one to remove
> and replace the cluster.
>
> I did some checking. Rod Ramsey (rod at thepartsconnection.com) has these
> bulbs in stock for $1.25 (+S/H) each. My instrument cluster required nine
> of them. Be sure to specify the 2.0 watt bulbs with the light green base.
>
> My recommendation? If you have ever been bothered by difficulty in reading
> the exact speed or other dash gauges at night - go for it. It's a
> significant upgrade for very little $$$. I wish I had done it years
> ago. The better half likes the change also. I should also remind you that
> if the added light becomes a nuisance on long distance trips over very dark
> roads that the dimmer knob will still work.
>
> Bob
> *****
> Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372
> Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP
> '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244
> http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm
> *****
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 14:11:13 -0400
> From: JShadzi at aol.com
> To: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Mike Veglia), quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: 5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip
>
> Cool, just wanted to double check =3D)
> Javad
>
> In a message dated Mon, 8 Jul 2002 1:05:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, Mike V=
> eglia <msvphoto at pacbell.net> writes:
>
> >Oh no, not at all. What I meant by "not using any coolant" is no coolant
> >leaks/consumption so far :) =A0Sorry for the confusion.
> >
> >Mike Veglia
> >Motor Sport Visions Photography
> >http://www.motorsportvisions.com
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <JShadzi at aol.com>
> >To: "Mike Veglia" <msvphoto at pacbell.net>; <quattro at audifans.com>
> >Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 10:33 AM
> >Subject: Re: 5ktq Radiator Update, and a Type 44 tip
> >
> >
> >> Mike, do you mean that you're running water only? =A0If so, your water p=
> ump
> >days are are numbered (a week or two at best), the pump uses the coolant f=
> or
> >lubrication, I recommend using at least a 20/80 split to ensure water pump
> >longevity, and a bottle or two of watter wetter (can be substituted for
> >coolant) BTDT a few times in the race cars.
> >>
> >> Javad
> >>
> >> "Running at exactly the same temps as ever on the dash gauge, not using
> >> any coolant"
> >
> >
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 14
> Subject: RE: Lighting upgrade
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 14:22:21 -0400
> From: <David.Ullrich at ferguson.com>
> To: <robert at s-cars.org>, <quattro at audifans.com>
>
> Any clue whether these would work on the digital dash of the UrQ & late Coupe GT? I've got the orange digi-dash in my CGt and I'd love to brighten it up a bit...
>
> Dave
>
> Too Many Toys:
> 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T Tiptronic
> 1993 RX-7 R1
> 1987.5 Audi Coupe GT "Special Build" 2.3 - Anthracite Black
> 1985 Chevy Impala Interceptor
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Myers [mailto:robert at s-cars.org]
> Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 2:09 PM
> To: s-car-list at audifans.com; Quattro list
> Subject: Lighting upgrade
>
> Hi Y'all,
>
> Some while back I got a set of replacement dash lights for my instrument
> cluster ('95 S6 but that matters little - they are mostly all the same)
> from another list member (the Godfather if it matters). Two weeks ago, I
> _finally_ got around to swapping them into the car. These bulbs are
> significantly brighter than the stock bulbs. (2.0 watt vs. 1.2 or 1.1
> watts). This has made a _major_ improvement in the nighttime visibility
> for the various instruments in the instrument cluster.
>
> The replacement process is easy. Pull the instrument cluster, remove the
> old bulbs (1/4 turn CCW and lift out), replace them with new bulbs (drop in
> and fasten 1/4 turn CW), put the instrument cluster back in the car. The
> whole process took perhaps 25-30 minutes - mostly because my electric
> screwdriver was elsewhere and I had to use an old fashioned one to remove
> and replace the cluster.
>
> I did some checking. Rod Ramsey (rod at thepartsconnection.com) has these
> bulbs in stock for $1.25 (+S/H) each. My instrument cluster required nine
> of them. Be sure to specify the 2.0 watt bulbs with the light green base.
>
> My recommendation? If you have ever been bothered by difficulty in reading
> the exact speed or other dash gauges at night - go for it. It's a
> significant upgrade for very little $$$. I wish I had done it years
> ago. The better half likes the change also. I should also remind you that
> if the added light becomes a nuisance on long distance trips over very dark
> roads that the dimmer knob will still work.
>
> Bob
> *****
> Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372
> Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP
> '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244
> http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm
> *****
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 15
> From: "Bernard Littau" <bernardl at acumenassociates.com>
> To: <WAUFX at aol.com>, <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: RE: snap ring pliers?
> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:29:17 -0700
>
> > Hey all-
> >
> > I need some snap ring pliers to do the shifter bushing on my 90q.
> > I went to
> > Home Depot, looking for Channelock tool #904 and my local one did not have
> > it. Searching on Harbor Freight, I find snap ring pliers of the "external"
> > and "internal" variety.
> >
> > I feel like a fool for asking, but what's the difference? The rings the
> > pliers will be used on are the ring that goes around the shifter stick and
> > the ring that hold my new door lock cylinder in place...advice?
>
> Hi Megan,
>
> Internal snap rings need to have the two ends moved closer together to be
> removed; they are held in place along their outside edge.
>
> External snap rings need to have the two ends moved further apart to be
> removed; they are held in place along their inside edge.
>
> Harbor freight sells several snap ring pliers kits as I recollect, even one
> that can deal with both internal and external snap rings with a single tool;
> it has interchangeable tips, too.
>
> Some of the stuff from Harbor Freight is flimsy -- I had trouble with the
> front wheel bearing snap rings. The rings you mention sound small. A
> possible problem with the one-tool-that-does-all is it's bulky -- might be a
> problem in tight quarters.
>
> Best,
>
> Bernard Littau
> Woodinville, WA
> '88 5ktq
>
> --__--__--
>
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